My 240 was getting a little tired but mostly I was tired of the long gap during the 1-2 shift. My peaky M44 doesn't like it. In case anyone ever tries this I'll post a few things I had to do to make it work.
It's about 1" longer to the output shaft than the 240 but for the time being, the driveshaft spines take it up ok with no binding, but just barely. There's only a few mm of extra play. The center support is as far to the rear as it can go. This is my biggest worry at present but it does work with no vibration.
I had to install the E36 slave cylinder, the e30 will not work.
The Shifter brace installs perfectly but the shift rod must be shortened. I used 10mm all-thread, cut and shortened the shaft, and tapped the holes on each side. This allowed me to trial-and-error the perfect shifter position. Once I had the length right, I welded the shift rod to the all- thread.
A 17mm bolt head will not fit in the upper starter bolt are. Find an e-torx or Allen bolt.
My first driving impressions aren't fair of course since it's geared too short for a 3.64 now. I must say the ratio spacing seems more even with the rpm drop nearly the same for 1st through 3rd. It's even tighter 3-4-5. I have the 3.25 on the bench with the LsD carrier going into it next week. So I will see how it feels when compared to the 3.73 I've been running. It's out too donating it's LSD to the 3.25.
One side note is that I'm running an light M20 flywheel and 323i t/o bearing. I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing this. Honestly if it was a track car, it would be pretty perfect with a 3.73lsd in the back.
It's about 1" longer to the output shaft than the 240 but for the time being, the driveshaft spines take it up ok with no binding, but just barely. There's only a few mm of extra play. The center support is as far to the rear as it can go. This is my biggest worry at present but it does work with no vibration.
I had to install the E36 slave cylinder, the e30 will not work.
The Shifter brace installs perfectly but the shift rod must be shortened. I used 10mm all-thread, cut and shortened the shaft, and tapped the holes on each side. This allowed me to trial-and-error the perfect shifter position. Once I had the length right, I welded the shift rod to the all- thread.
A 17mm bolt head will not fit in the upper starter bolt are. Find an e-torx or Allen bolt.
My first driving impressions aren't fair of course since it's geared too short for a 3.64 now. I must say the ratio spacing seems more even with the rpm drop nearly the same for 1st through 3rd. It's even tighter 3-4-5. I have the 3.25 on the bench with the LsD carrier going into it next week. So I will see how it feels when compared to the 3.73 I've been running. It's out too donating it's LSD to the 3.25.
One side note is that I'm running an light M20 flywheel and 323i t/o bearing. I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing this. Honestly if it was a track car, it would be pretty perfect with a 3.73lsd in the back.