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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

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    There is one for sale on Amazon.com if you search with the BMW part number.

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      Hey Everyone,

      So I bought my e30 with the AC not working because the heater core is not working. This is all the information I have.

      I recently acquired a used heater core and plan to change. After going through this entire thread, I have some questions....

      Questions:
      1. After changing heater core, assuming everything else is ok, what else do I need to do?
      2. After changing heater core, do i just fill up new coolant and go from there? What else should I consider for my heat (and therefore my AC) to work? I am assuming that I won't have to do anything related to the AC coolant right? That stuff is in its own system, and me changing the heater core has nothing to do with R-22 right?

      3. See photo. Boxed in GREEN, are those the pipes that everyone says I should be changing? Seems kinda pricey at $34 a pop...=(

      4. See photo. Boxed in RED, I'm assuming this was the hose that used to be connected to the pipes?

      5. So it looks like the previous owner just disconnected these hoses/pipes to bypass heater core? Are there any implications for doing this? I've been driving it DD for past 3 months without any issue but...


      Thank you all for your time and help!!!


      Comment


        Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

        Originally posted by xcx4x View Post
        Questions:
        1. After changing heater core, assuming everything else is ok, what else do I need to do?
        2. After changing heater core, do i just fill up new coolant and go from there? What else should I consider for my heat (and therefore my AC) to work? I am assuming that I won't have to do anything related to the AC coolant right? That stuff is in its own system, and me changing the heater core has nothing to do with R-22 right?

        3. See photo. Boxed in GREEN, are those the pipes that everyone says I should be changing? Seems kinda pricey at $34 a pop...=(

        4. See photo. Boxed in RED, I'm assuming this was the hose that used to be connected to the pipes?

        5. So it looks like the previous owner just disconnected these hoses/pipes to bypass heater core? Are there any implications for doing this? I've been driving it DD for past 3 months without any issue but...
        1. What else do you need to do in regards to what?

        2. Yes; as a note, the cooling (heater) system has nothing to do with the AC system: they are two separately run systems (heater uses engine ports/hoses/coolant, AC uses compressor/hardlines/freon)

        3. Those hardlines are okay to keep unless they are warped or pitted. Mine were pitted horribly, so I replaced mine, but you can get away with not changing them. Also, $34 is not a lot to spend on needed maintenance ;)

        4. Those are the block hose and spider hose, and yes, they are the hoses used to route the heater core. Spider goes up top, block down low

        5. Mine were bypassed by my PO for years. The only thing that it affects is not having a heater


        EDIT:
        Might help you along with the write-up in the OP
        Last edited by JinormusJ; 06-24-2014, 11:10 PM.

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          Thanks a lot JinormusJ! The link you provided will definitely help. I just ordered the new O-rings.

          As for coolant, is there a specific place I add the coolant? It sounds like a dumb question but its just that since my heater core has been bypassed, does it mean that when I un-bypass my heater core, coolant from the reservoir will automatically go through the heater core? Where did it go before? I'm just having a hard time picturing the IN and OUT of the "system".

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            I've got this in the way. From all the research I did I don't recall running into this. Anyone have any ideas??

            EDIT: forgot about seeing it awhile ago..just took that sucker off!
            Last edited by xcx4x; 07-22-2014, 09:44 PM.

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              Edit again

              Nvm. Saw in previous posts. Going to remove.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
              Last edited by xcx4x; 07-22-2014, 02:21 PM.

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                EDIT2: Valve leaking. Need a new valve.

                Quick background: Got car. Found repair documents. One said A/C not working, Heater core faulty. I got a new (used) heater core. Now I'm replacing heater core.

                OOOOOOOOOOOOK

                so update, with a coupla questions. some practical, some theoretical, some general.
                I got the heater core out. I think i had the hardest trouble with the three 8mm screws (hexagonal tops) that attach the heater core to the pipes. I'm talking about these ones:




                because of how hard they are to reach.
                Q1: Anyone have any tips for when I reinstall?

                After I pulled the heater core I realized what it was. Just a piece of metal. Which makes me wonder...
                Q2: How does a heater core fail? Leak? Clog?
                Q2.1: How can I check if its bad or not? can I fill it with liquid and coat outside with soapy water and check for leaks? I'm guessing this wont work because i'd need some pressure.


                This leads to me to think that maybe it wasnt the heater core that failed. Maybe it was my valve? Here is a picture of it:



                I guess the picture is kinda biased because of that white stuff on the edge of it.

                Q3: But if a valve were to fail, is this the way it would fail? Or perhaps this is just random residue or residue from when the O-rings failed awhile ago.

                EDIT: I will try plugging it in and turning the temperature knob and "listen" for a click or any movement of the valve.


                So currently, all O-rings will be replaced, and old heater core is out. I am reluctant to put in new heater core without first considering the failure of my valve. I don't want to go through the hassle of putting in new heater core then running car only to have a huge leak.
                I'm not ready to purchase a new valve yet because...


                cost: $$$254

                Will keep you all posted!
                Last edited by xcx4x; 07-23-2014, 08:31 AM. Reason: formatting

                Comment


                  That parting line is typically where the valve will fail.

                  As for the tiny bolts, my only advice is to not lose their nuts. You can keep them captive with a tiny amount of poster putty or similar if you are having a problem with them.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by cunninglinguist View Post
                    That parting line is typically where the valve will fail.

                    As for the tiny bolts, my only advice is to not lose their nuts. You can keep them captive with a tiny amount of poster putty or similar if you are having a problem with them.
                    +1.

                    I just ran some water through the valve and exactly where you specified spewed a leak.

                    =(((((((((((((((((((((((

                    i wonder if this was because i tugged it a bit as i was getting the heater core out..but all the residue implies it failed awhile ago..

                    So...anyone have a valve for sale? =)

                    edit: none in for sale. anyone know a budget valve for sale?
                    edit2: anyone know a good pick n pull around long beach area +anywhere nearby?
                    Last edited by xcx4x; 07-23-2014, 08:38 AM.

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                      goddman why does that valve have to be so pricey
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                        my friend and i were talking about the valve. we were very interested in how it failed like that. coworker mentioned maybe something was in the way of the valve, so when the valve closed it hit the debris and pushed itself out.

                        anyways, in the meantime, my friend wanted to try and fix the valve assuming the valve still works. we are going to pull out the collar pins that hold the solenoid valve to the hose. then we're going to make a rubber gasket of some sort and seal it up. finally drill/tap new holes and fasten it the same way.

                        we'll take some pics and keep yall updated.

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                          Update:

                          I pulled a heater valve off a parts car from a member here.

                          However...its a different color (black instead of green/aqua) which leads me to believe it may not be the correct one...

                          Here is a picture comparing them:



                          1. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable?

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                            Color doesnt matter. Ive pulled different looking valves from pnp before.

                            My heater didn't work, applied voltage to the valve it didn't open, went to pnp bought valve, heater worked after replacement, total cost $14. didn't even replace the o-rings.

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                              so if the windows fog inside if I use the heat, should I assume its the heater core?
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                                just looked at mine today and looks like my heater core valved is leaking....DAMN

                                Last edited by ///M42 sport; 08-28-2014, 04:51 PM.
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