No start/no fuel, pump replaced now with irritation

[parkerbink]

Yesterday the car would not start, I searched and found no fuel diagnostics. I did the bridging of #30 & 87 on the pump relay and no pump.

I got a Walbro 255, installed it, it ran when bridging 30 & 87 before I put the assembly back together.

I buttoned it up, the car ran for a few minutes and then died. Now I get no pump from bridging 30 & 87 and as the mechanic removed the mount for the relay when I tried another relay I'm not positive I put the wires back correctly. I have a red at 30, a single brown green at 87 a red white at 86 and two brown greens at 85. (he put them in a single female spade connector)

I have 12v at 30 and when I give the pump 12v directly it runs.

I have searched and searched for the wire colors at the different points with no success. Can someone please post what belongs where and also wtf do I do now?

This is truly driving me crazy.

Gracias!

[M3 Ryan]

Car have an OBC computer 13 button? If so, under dash by pedals there's a black box, take the 2 green wires tuning into the green connector and splice them together. If the computer goes bad it won't allow the fuel pump to run and you get a cranking no start with no real reason. After that get a 22 gauge shotgun and blow a hole in the passenger door. It will look like shit, but you will feel better, unless you don't. Hope this helps.

[parkerbink]

It does, when you say computer you mean the OBC?

I'll do it in the morning, I spent the day banging my head against this and have entered mindless mode for the night.

I'll reserve the shotgun therapy for later :)

Thanks!

[M3 Ryan]

That's an OBC relay/computer/ total POS unit

[parkerbink]

Thanks, I have 2 DMEs and it's doing it on both so just wanted to be certain I understood.

Thanks

[parkerbink]

Since I'm a glutton for punishment I went to do it, I have nothing like that near the pedals/under the panel there. Could they have hidden it elsewhere in a '92 cabrio that has parts from multiple years (90 air box, the filter that was supposedly for a '92 was too big)

[parkerbink]

Found it hidden behind the ABS computer. The two green wires are connected to a connector that goes to a green and a green/red so I pulled it and jumped it at the car side. It started, ran for a few seconds and died and won't start now. I got code 10 (new one) from Peake that the book says is 1/2 the injectors. Still no pump from 30& 87 but I get the ICV from 30 & 85.

I cleared the code, it won't start but the code is not coming back.

[M_3_X]

Have you ruled out CPS?

[parkerbink]

CPS is a few weeks old, as are the coil, fpr, plugs, wires, cap & rotor,injectors, MAF is less than a week rebuilt by Bavarian Restoration, fuel pump yesterday.

Left out ICV, both coolant temp sensors, thermostat, two fuel pump relays & a partridge in a pear tree....

[parkerbink]

More banging my head against it, It has an aftermarket key fob that I assume unlocked it at least but does nothing, the central locking didn't work so while I was 75% of the way there I pulled the panel and the central lock module figuring the "fuse" was blown. It was not, it was just "loose" the point the two pieces were soldered together were apart. I heated up the existing solder and now central locking works. (not the key fob) and I see no aftermarket wires or module in there so buttoned it up.

I have 12v at the pump with the key on but no pump, the pump runs when I give it 12v directly from an outside source and no pump when jumping 30 & 87 but ICV when jumping 85 & 30 (key off)

I have done everything I found and that has been suggested. Absent more input I'll take it to the shop and pay to have this nightmare removed.

Thanks.

[Dgerry]

Check the fuel pump wiring

Hello,

If you can get the pump to run off of an external source, but not when you manually jump the relay (assuming there is power there) then you have a break in the wiring or bad/burnt out connection somewhere. You need to check for continuity in each wire from the starting point or source. In this case at the fuel pump relay. So, get a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter and download the appropriate wiring manual on line (they are all on there you have to search a little harder for some). Or, if you do not feel comfortable doing this, this would be the first thing I asked the shop to do. If you do it yourself let us know what you come up with or post what the shop finds if you take it in. Thanks,

Gerry

[parkerbink]

I checked continuity (as best I could) and found no failures, the oddest part is I get 12v at the fuel pump connector when I turn on the ignition to #2.

*EDIT* #30 has 12v & when jumped with 85 causes the ICV to run.

Absent someone directing me to the solution before then, it's getting towed to the shop in the morning.

It's odd, when I got it, it did not run at all, had an ABS, Brake lining, several upper panel errors, no radio, no windshield washer, no central locking broken fogs, smashed valance and neither seat moved forward to allow access to the back seat nor recline.

I have put about 200 miles on it (99% with cel) and fixed all of the above (except driver seat back seat access movement the clip is broken off the cable) plus smilies and low beam hids and I feel like a failure.

Oh well, who said cars were fair?

lol

[jlevie]

Something is odd here. When the key is in position 2 (ignition on) the mail relay closes, powering up the DME, and providing power to the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay closes only when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. So there should not be power at the pump when the key is in position 2.

My suspects at this point are a bad engine harness, bad DME, bad engine harness, A fault in the main relay, or creative mods to the engine wiring.

[parkerbink]

It's in the shop, they called about an hour ago. The throttle body is bad, there is a blockage in the fuel return causing high pressure which killed the new FPR and there was a wiring issue with the fuel pump.

They ordered a TB & FPR and cleared the blockage/rewired the pump.

I should have the car back 100% runnnig Monday.

Thanks

[parkerbink]

Good news is it is running properly and all is well with the engine. Bad news is this return line that is in the tank? does not want to unclog.

Anyone have experience with this? He is saying they may need to drop the tank to fix it.