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85 318i issues

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    #16
    I replaced my alternator with one from advance auto about 2-3 years ago. I have an aftermarket volt meter, when I start the car it makes 11.9v until I rev over 3000-3500 rpms then it changes over to the normal 13.6v+



    I updated to HR race springs and bilstein sports a few weeks ago. Extremely happy with the handling and ride quality.




    tirerack has the best pricing on the springs and turner motorsports has the best pricing on the shocks.
    Last edited by loki_; 03-13-2017, 12:23 PM.

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      #17
      Had a revelation the other day:

      Took the cover off the fuel pump relay the other day to see if there was any burnt circuits. Everything looked ok so I decided to plug the relay back in without the cover and watch it while the car was idling. The relay seemed to click into place when there was power but then once in a while it will break connection and the engine will act like it will die, until the relay connected again.

      Replaced the relay with a new Kaehler relay and no more hiccups.

      Also found that the blue/black wire going into the idle stabilization relay (TD terminal) broke at the connector, ended up resoldering the wire and connector again and the car is running like new. This blue/black wire sends the engine speed from the ECU to the idle stabilization relay so no signal was being received to ground the fuel injectors.

      Hope you get your engine running smoothly again. It's a pain troubleshooting multiple items.

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        #18
        Yeah, that relay causes so many headaches for M10s

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          #19
          So, it's been over 3 weeks now and it hasn't even thought about cutting out. Pretty safe to say it was the relay. Haven't noticed any buzzing or rapid clicking, either.

          Still haven't fixed the exhaust hangers, yet, but I did put a leather wheelskin on.

          Brake pedal was intermittently going to the floor and started sinking in at long stops. Had a look and noticed some holes in the fluid reservoir. There were three chunks out of the top of the reservoir. Either someone was really clumsy with some tools or a critter started chewing on it thinking brake fluid was tasty. Put in new reservoir, master cylinder and brake fluid and it's back to normal now.

          loki, the race springs aren't too low? What wheels/tires are you using?
          Trying to sort through suspension and new wheel/tire options. Currently have original 14" bottlecaps 195/60, Gabriel Ultra shocks, probably original springs. 90mm wheel arch gap in front, 70mm in back.
          Last edited by kicker; 04-04-2017, 03:39 PM.

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            #20
            this picture is with the HR race springs, e90 top hats, and 205/50r16 tires. Loads of ground clearance. I can clear speed bumps and big road humps with no scraping at all.


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              #21
              Looks nice, loki. E90 hats for a little extra drop or some other reason?
              Wheel width?

              I'm liking the Klutch SL1 (16x8 ET15) and Enkei 92s (15x7 ET38 or 15x8 ET25).
              Not sure about if the 205 width on the 16x8s would be a good fit, but I like the SL1's best.

              Good to know 205/50R16 fits well with the H&R race. That gives me a lot more tire options than what I was looking at.

              Went to the junkyard today. Rear suspension from a 325e is being pulled and delivered this week so I can do a rear drum to disc conversion. Also getting the struts for the 51mm housing and a spare diff that I probably don't need, (mine's a 4.10 small case, this is unknown medium case). I've been waiting to see if I could get my hands on the 51mm before ordering anything.

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                #22
                Thanks!

                The e90 top hats are $26 for the pair and give you another 12mm drop over the stock ones. The te37s are 16x8 et20, 5mm spacer in the front only. With the inner liners removed and the fenders rolled, I don't have any rubbing when steering lock to lock and/or when the suspension is fully compressed.

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