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Car stalls when hot. Running out of things to test

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    #16
    Bump would really like to figure this out
    Originally posted by blunttech
    r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

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      #17
      Have you checked the resistance of the coolant temp sensor against the Bentley and also with the temp sensor plugged in checked the resistance at the ECU? to ensure no wiring issues between ecu and sensor.
      Last edited by e30davie; 05-14-2017, 03:25 PM.

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        #18
        Yeah I've tested three different sensors and their all to spec. The one in the car is brand new
        Originally posted by blunttech
        r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

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          #19
          Your problem sounds to me like the engine is not getting enough fuel.
          I would be very interested to see if your O2 sensor is switching properly. In lieu of that if you could look at the voltage reading on the signal wire of the O2 while the car is running with a cold temp sensor and then how that reading changes as the sensor is heated and the car dies that may tell you something.
          One thing to clear up, you say you have a turbo cam, do you have a turbo on the engine? Also, do you have a chip on the ecu for all these mods?
          sigpic

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            #20
            Originally posted by YosemiteSam View Post
            Your problem sounds to me like the engine is not getting enough fuel.
            I would be very interested to see if your O2 sensor is switching properly. In lieu of that if you could look at the voltage reading on the signal wire of the O2 while the car is running with a cold temp sensor and then how that reading changes as the sensor is heated and the car dies that may tell you something.
            One thing to clear up, you say you have a turbo cam, do you have a turbo on the engine? Also, do you have a chip on the ecu for all these mods?
            The car has 42ish psi at the fuel rail so i know its recieving correct pressure. the injectors have been swapped out as well as the wiring harness. this is to eliminate the possibility of of anything fuel related. injectors fire as they should and the c191 connector was swapped with the new harness. fuel pumps were also swapped with no change.

            ive swapped o2 sensors and it did not make a difference, plugged in or not plugged in.

            the cam is a dual pattern cam that is pretty popular with 2.7i swaps and i see many people running it without a tune. I dont think the cam would affect anything specially when warmed up, since it runs and idles fine when cold.
            Originally posted by blunttech
            r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

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              #21
              Dang man thats a head beater. MS might help save you some headache. Does the car hesitate when cool / cold or are all your issues happening when the car is warm?

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                #22
                Originally posted by Killacortes View Post
                The car has 42ish psi at the fuel rail so i know its recieving correct pressure. the injectors have been swapped out as well as the wiring harness. this is to eliminate the possibility of of anything fuel related. injectors fire as they should and the c191 connector was swapped with the new harness. fuel pumps were also swapped with no change.

                ive swapped o2 sensors and it did not make a difference, plugged in or not plugged in.

                the cam is a dual pattern cam that is pretty popular with 2.7i swaps and i see many people running it without a tune. I dont think the cam would affect anything specially when warmed up, since it runs and idles fine when cold.
                Those things do not eliminate the possibility that the PCM is not giving the engine enough fuel. I was not asking about the O2 signal because I suspect the O2 sensor, I was asking about it because I suspect the PCM is not leaving the injectors on long enough.

                A cold engine needs way more fuel than a hot engine, so if the PCM thinks that the engine is cold, it hangs the injectors open longer. Theoretically if it is a fuel related problem, the PCM could be subtracting too much pulse width from the injectors when the sensor heats up causing the engine to stall. The test I told you about with the O2 sensor will tell you if the PCM is leaning out the mixture when the engine heats up.

                If the PCM is leaning out the mixture too much, I would expect the O2 signal voltage to be somewhere in between .4V and .9V when the ECT sensor is cold, and when the ECT sensor was heated I would expect to see that voltage peg somewhere around .1V. If you do do this test, make sure to let the car warm up to operating temp before doing it. If you do it cold the O2 may not be up to temp and may not report properly.

                Edit: realised I had my voltages backwards.
                Last edited by YosemiteSam; 05-16-2017, 08:54 AM.
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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Blackthorn View Post
                  Dang man thats a head beater. MS might help save you some headache. Does the car hesitate when cool / cold or are all your issues happening when the car is warm?
                  Car doesn't hesitate when cold. It idles perfectly and revs nicely. Drives without a hiccup until it warms up
                  Originally posted by blunttech
                  r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by YosemiteSam View Post
                    Those things do not eliminate the possibility that the PCM is not giving the engine enough fuel. I was not asking about the O2 signal because I suspect the O2 sensor, I was asking about it because I suspect the PCM is not leaving the injectors on long enough.

                    A cold engine needs way more fuel than a hot engine, so if the PCM thinks that the engine is cold, it hangs the injectors open longer. Theoretically if it is a fuel related problem, the PCM could be subtracting too much pulse width from the injectors when the sensor heats up causing the engine to stall. The test I told you about with the O2 sensor will tell you if the PCM is leaning out the mixture when the engine heats up.

                    If the PCM is leaning out the mixture too much, I would expect the O2 signal voltage to be somewhere in between .6V and .1V when the ECT sensor is cold, and when the ECT sensor was heated I would expect to see that voltage peg somewhere around .9V. If you do do this test, make sure to let the car warm up to operating temp before doing it. If you do it cold the O2 may not be up to temp and may not report properly.
                    I will test that this week and report back. Thanks for the input!
                    Originally posted by blunttech
                    r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Killacortes View Post
                      I will test that this week and report back. Thanks for the input!
                      Realized last night that I had my voltages backwards. Edited my original post with correct numbers.
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