I've been trying to chase down a problem with my 90 325is which has a freshly-rebuilt M20 and could use some help from some of the R3v M20 whisperers. :)
I bought the car about a year ago and the M20 ran, but ran very poorly. Compression check showed two questionable cylinders and it burned quite a bit of oil via the valve seals. Idle was rough and it just generally ran like shit until you got above about 1500rpm, which I attributed to the blow-by. I pulled the engine 6 days after I bought it and did a complete overhaul with new rings, bearings, etc. I currently have about 500 miles on the refreshed engine.
Overall, it runs pretty good - no more burning oil, no more leaks, but the idle is still very rough and it still tends to stumble just off idle (800-1500rpm), particularly when cold. Once the engine is fully warmed up, the off-idle hesitation improves quite a bit and at all temperatures, it runs great above 1500rpm. It pulls all the way to redline and while I wouldn't call it "fast", it seems about right for 160 crank HP.
THE PROBLEM: When the car is idling roughly, you can feel and see the engine shake back and forth. You can also hear a "burbling" or "choppiness" in the exhaust note. When you rev the car in neutral, you feel a shake that speeds up with rpm and then smooths out around 1500rpm or so.
However, while the idle is rough and shakes the car, the rpm NEVER fluctuates. It's rock solid at any temperature and any driving condition. It never dies, never surges, never dips - nothing. When I turn on the A/C, the idle rises slightly like it should and is just as steady. Aside from the shaking, I'd say it idles perfectly. The car starts every time and never dies after starting, even when cold. It's only when you try to blip the throttle (especially on a cold start) that the engine falls on it's face.
I've done the following so far:
- Compression check: 157-160psi on all 6 cylinders (dry)
- Verified Timing belt is installed correctly
- Verified spark to all 6 cylinders by using timing light inductive pickup
- At idle, it looks like the engine is running around 20 degrees timing advance referenced to cyl #1 (which sounds reasonable based on previous experience with American V8s)
- Inspected harmonic balancer tooth ring - no signs that it's spun or moved relative to the hub.
- Replaced/Inspected all spark plugs - all look a little on the lean side, but they all look the same
- New cap & Rotor (Bremi)
- AFM maintenance (clean contacts, adjust for new track, verified with Fluke Scope Meter, adjust idle mixture screw to factory stamped depth)
- 3-wire IAC valve is clean and coil resistance matches specs in Bentley.
- Checked for vac leaks more times than I can count. Sealed up every vac line, no matter how unlikely a leak appears.
- TPS switch is new (Bosch), and adjusted properly
- Throttle cable is adjusted so no excessive slack
- Valves have been adjusted several times and are not excessively noisy.
- New Bosch O2 sensor
- Fuel injectors were sent to MEPEH for cleaning and rebuild with new O-rings & pintle caps
- New Fuel Pressure Regulator (supposedly 3.0 bar, but I need to verify)
- EGTs are all 235-250C as measured with an infrared heat gun.
- Catalytic converter is new Magnaflow
- Engine Temp Sensor measures normal when cold, both at the sensor and at the DME.
- New Fuel filter, fuel lines, etc.
Ideas? Suggestions?
THANK YOU!
I bought the car about a year ago and the M20 ran, but ran very poorly. Compression check showed two questionable cylinders and it burned quite a bit of oil via the valve seals. Idle was rough and it just generally ran like shit until you got above about 1500rpm, which I attributed to the blow-by. I pulled the engine 6 days after I bought it and did a complete overhaul with new rings, bearings, etc. I currently have about 500 miles on the refreshed engine.
Overall, it runs pretty good - no more burning oil, no more leaks, but the idle is still very rough and it still tends to stumble just off idle (800-1500rpm), particularly when cold. Once the engine is fully warmed up, the off-idle hesitation improves quite a bit and at all temperatures, it runs great above 1500rpm. It pulls all the way to redline and while I wouldn't call it "fast", it seems about right for 160 crank HP.
THE PROBLEM: When the car is idling roughly, you can feel and see the engine shake back and forth. You can also hear a "burbling" or "choppiness" in the exhaust note. When you rev the car in neutral, you feel a shake that speeds up with rpm and then smooths out around 1500rpm or so.
However, while the idle is rough and shakes the car, the rpm NEVER fluctuates. It's rock solid at any temperature and any driving condition. It never dies, never surges, never dips - nothing. When I turn on the A/C, the idle rises slightly like it should and is just as steady. Aside from the shaking, I'd say it idles perfectly. The car starts every time and never dies after starting, even when cold. It's only when you try to blip the throttle (especially on a cold start) that the engine falls on it's face.
I've done the following so far:
- Compression check: 157-160psi on all 6 cylinders (dry)
- Verified Timing belt is installed correctly
- Verified spark to all 6 cylinders by using timing light inductive pickup
- At idle, it looks like the engine is running around 20 degrees timing advance referenced to cyl #1 (which sounds reasonable based on previous experience with American V8s)
- Inspected harmonic balancer tooth ring - no signs that it's spun or moved relative to the hub.
- Replaced/Inspected all spark plugs - all look a little on the lean side, but they all look the same
- New cap & Rotor (Bremi)
- AFM maintenance (clean contacts, adjust for new track, verified with Fluke Scope Meter, adjust idle mixture screw to factory stamped depth)
- 3-wire IAC valve is clean and coil resistance matches specs in Bentley.
- Checked for vac leaks more times than I can count. Sealed up every vac line, no matter how unlikely a leak appears.
- TPS switch is new (Bosch), and adjusted properly
- Throttle cable is adjusted so no excessive slack
- Valves have been adjusted several times and are not excessively noisy.
- New Bosch O2 sensor
- Fuel injectors were sent to MEPEH for cleaning and rebuild with new O-rings & pintle caps
- New Fuel Pressure Regulator (supposedly 3.0 bar, but I need to verify)
- EGTs are all 235-250C as measured with an infrared heat gun.
- Catalytic converter is new Magnaflow
- Engine Temp Sensor measures normal when cold, both at the sensor and at the DME.
- New Fuel filter, fuel lines, etc.
Ideas? Suggestions?
THANK YOU!
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