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    Valve Cover Stud

    When installing new valve cover studs how much should be left out? They're about an inch and a half long.


    #2
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      #3
      Fit the valve cover, and see if they stick out enough to fully tighten it down. I adjusted and readjusted to make the studs flush with the top of the nuts when the nuts are tight

      Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk
      (OO=[][]=OO) For Life

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        #4
        1.5" long is awfully tall. The valve cover is not that thick. But then again, there is nothing on top of the cover that would interfere with the extra length. It just looks ugly.

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          #5
          You could do just tall enough to secure the valve cover with a standard nut, then put an acorn nut on top. That way you can have the two that secure the spark plug wire holder held down by hex nuts, the same as the others, but have the spark plug wire holder secured by the acorn nuts. So that if you remove your spark plug wires you don't mess with the tension on your valve cover. Also so there is less stress on the spark plug wire holder

          Does that make sense? It's been a long day


          it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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            #6
            the studs are supposed to be 35mm long so they shouldn't stick out 38mm

            i use the fancy nuts 11121401517 ($$$), had to shorten a few of the studs a little to get it to work from memory looks awesome with a powder coated valve cover
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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              #7
              FFS, $9/piece?

              You know you can get acorn nuts at your big box home improvement store for $9 for all of them, right? Lol.
              AWD > RWD

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                #8
                I used to have the acorn ones. The BMW ones look nicer and are better material feels like less made in China.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                  #9
                  I like using stainless set screws. They have a nice hex drive broached in the end. Buy them in the box of 100, but don't remember the price.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                    FFS, $9/piece?

                    You know you can get acorn nuts at your big box home improvement store for $9 for all of them, right? Lol.
                    I went that route and found those acorns to be a little short. Rather than cutting anything I used a couple of copper washers from a HF kit. The copper and SS reminds me of the marine engines I've had :)
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                      #11
                      After buying OEM studs/bolts and using red loctite it still wouldn't tighten down... The stud would just come loose.. I put half the stud into the head and waited 24 hrs for it to cure. I'm thinking about using these, has anyone tried them?

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Idrisu View Post
                        After buying OEM studs/bolts and using red loctite it still wouldn't tighten down... The stud would just come loose.. I put half the stud into the head and waited 24 hrs for it to cure. I'm thinking about using these, has anyone tried them?

                        I wouldn't use them. Something about head thread depth/ thread wear and using screws where a stud once was doesn't sit right with me. If possible, try to find a shorter stud at a hardware store? You're double-nutting the OEM studs to install, correct? I mean, when I put in mine, I actually had to back a few of them off because I screwed them in too far to get the nut on over the valve cover.

                        Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk
                        (OO=[][]=OO) For Life

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