Will the Z4 shifter fit a pre 6/86???

[Drewe30e]

I've read a lot about this install and it sounds great. However, through searching over the internet I've seen a lot of stuff hinting towards SSK's only fitting e30's after 6/86. Is this the truth or just crap?

I really want to do this mod! Any answers would be appreciated.

[Drewe30e]

i finally found out what the deal was with my situation. i CAN put the z4 shifter in my car but it will take a little more work than that of a car after 6/86. it turns out that i have a sheet metal console that others do not. so i guess i'll be ordering my parts from BMA soon. wish me luck.

[KenC]

I think the z4 2.5 should drop in pretty easily. If you're doing the Z4 3.0 lever, you'll have to use two of the lower retaining cups stacked on top of eachother in order to clear the driveshaft.

[Drewe30e]

thanks for the heads up. well i guess i'll order the parts needed today and i'll install everything after my exams are over. do you recommend that i get every part suggested for the sheet metal install? also, are the derlin bushings worth it?

[KenC]

What derelin bushings?

[Drewe30e]

UUC's delrin shift carrier bushing. i've read that they make shifts feel more precise. i know they're not absolutely necessary, but i was just wondering if you had any experience with them.

[KenC]

That's for the aluminum console, not the sheet metal one.

[Drewe30e]

oh ok, thanks a lot for all of your help.

[BimmerHeadBri]

Not sure if you have already done it....

I just did the Z4 3.0 shifter on my 2/86 325 (eta) with the sheet metal console. Not necessary to use 2 retaining cups. I installed mine with all new parts except for the foam under the shifter and it will only touch the driveshaft if I whack the shifter straight downwards (which is NOT necessary if you shift properly).

Patrick at BMA helped me out with all the parts. You may also want to consider changing the shifter seal at the tranny. This beeyoch of a seal leaks like a pig. It was pretty tough to get out, but installing a new one will keep everything nice and clean, since you will already be there.

Installing the new shift rod joint was a P.I.T.A. NO clearance to get the dowel pin in or out.... :x

It made a world of difference though and I highly recommmend the swap.

Good luck.

Brian

[Bimmerfanatik]

Re: Not sure if you have already done it....

I just did the Z4 3.0 shifter on my 2/86 325 (eta) with the sheet metal console. Not necessary to use 2 retaining cups. I installed mine with all new parts except for the foam under the shifter and it will only touch the driveshaft if I whack the shifter straight downwards (which is NOT necessary if you shift properly).

Patrick at BMA helped me out with all the parts. You may also want to consider changing the shifter seal at the tranny. This beeyoch of a seal leaks like a pig. It was pretty tough to get out, but installing a new one will keep everything nice and clean, since you will already be there.

Installing the new shift rod joint was a P.I.T.A. NO clearance to get the dowel pin in or out.... :x

It made a world of difference though and I highly recommmend the swap.

Good luck.

Brian

When you say shifter seal, what part do you mean?

Also, how did you get that dowel in and out?

I'm going to be rebuilding my linkage completely - any help you can give me would be great since you just did it.

[BimmerHeadBri]

shifter swap

When you remove the shift rod joint you will have the selector rod sticking out of the tranny. There is a small seal there about the size of a quarter. These are notorious for leaking. I had a real fun time removing it as it is metal on the outer ring with a rubber seal on the shaft (like a donut - kinda). Get a new seal since you will be there already. Press it firmly into place by hand - be sure it is in there good and firm or you will be having to do it again (ask me how I know!)

Now, the dowel pin.... this one is fun..... remove your driveshaft and guibo. Remove the retaining clip (like a small collar around the shift rod joint - 2 flathead screwdrivers will do... move it towards the rear of the car as it will be out of the way there. Then find a long punch or screwdriver that you will be able to hit the dowel pin with... a long phillips screwdriver worked for me. If you have the stupid vibration dampener surrounding the guibo, REMOVE IT. You will have to work between the openings on the support there (you will see what I mean) to get at the dowel pin. Once you have punched it out enough, just pull it out with a pair of pliers (again pretty tight but doable).

Once that is out, off comes the selector joint, pull out the seal, install new seal and then the fun starts again. make sure you put the collar on the joint closest to the rear of the car so you can easily slip it on once you have the dowel pin in (do this FIRST BEFORE putting on the new joint).

I also put in a new little foam piece.... this made life more difficult as you don't have enough hands to push the joint in place and put in the dowel and whack it into place. I actually had to shave my foam down a bit to ease installation (I know it kinda defeats the purpose of a new foam... but I was desperate). I used a long screwdriver to whack the dowel into place... it was the longest thing to do.

Someone else mentioned lowering the tranny a bit to do this... I think I would try that if I had to do this all over again.

Hope this helps. Just be patient.... it is doable and the results are worth the trouble.

Good luck.