Small turbo setup questions

[driftxsequence]

So im working on putting together a mental list of parts that ill need to start acquiring for my ix.

What i wanted to know is should i be going with an aftermarket cam or keeping it stock? I am not looking for a high RPM freight train. Im building this as a low/midrange car much like you would find on a factory car.

I know i need the arp stud kit...and to stay away from victor reinz head gaskets. For 300hp i dont plan on o-ringing the block. What head gasket should i be going with?

What size injectors would be ideal? I do not have plans to increase power further than 300s so im guessing 30-40lb injectors.

Megasquirt will be the ecu of choice.

What clutch kit is needed?

[downforce22]

Search for some build threads, this has all been done before...

There is no need to change the headgasket. There is no need to change the cam. 30 or 42 lb injectors will get you where you want. Some people use the spec stage 3 clutch.

You may want to put your list on paper and add the cost of the parts because it will usually be twice what you expect.

[tschultz]

You may want to put your list on paper and add the cost of the parts because it will usually be twice what you expect.

I heard a rule of thumb lately:

Think about the expected cost to turbo the car and the timeline to get it to that point.

The actual numbers to get where you are thinking will be more like triple the cost and 5X the amount of time to get there.

I'd say that statement is fairly accurate if I'm considering my turbo car...

[Northern]

+1 to what downforce said, swap the head bolts one at a time for ARP's, keep the stock cam.

Clutch, Plenty run the spec stage 3, or Gripforce/FX racing stage 3 setups. Running a Sachs 618 pressure plate with a new oem style disc also seems to work great.

[ak-]

300hp or whp? My friend's conservative turbo 325i made around 250whp and the stock clutch held for about a quarter of the year.
Don't need that aggro of a clutch tbh. F1/Gripforce stage 2 works and is cheap. My stage 3 held up a shit ton of torque before quitting.

Stock HG from the dealer is your best bet, or none at all if it's in good shape - just throw the ARP's on there as mentioned above.

A while back I made ~300+whp on 36lbs injectors with something like 85% duty cycle, so you're about right.

A google spread sheet helped me out a lot to figure out cost. As mentioned, it was eventually doubled or so considering all the hardware, hoses, lines, bolts, metal, misc. you're going to need.

No on the cam.

[ForcedFirebird]

We have seen 350whp on 36lb injectors and Holset hx35@1bar, 36's are a plenty for 300.

I don't see any mention of software/engine management, only hardware...

Goetze or OEM gasket and studs will hold your power goal.

[driftxsequence]

Megasquirt/tunerstudio will be my ECU of choice. I have experience tuning my RX7 so the PNP seems like a great option.

I skimped a little and bought an elring headgasket set, and got the Ireland Engineering stud kit. apparently the IE kit is slightly longer and a couple extra threads go into the block.

I'm aware of the little things that eat ya when it comes to doing these sorts of builds. FC RX7s came with 460cc injectors from the factory so that may be a cheap and easy choice for injectors.

300WHP would be preferable, but 250 ish would put it at about the same as the mazdaspeed3 and that thing was a blast to drive. so torquey!

[ForcedFirebird]

Spring the few bucks for the Goetze gasket, you will be amazed at the side by side comparison.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Spring the few bucks for the Goetze gasket, you will be amazed at the side by side comparison.

Im just now finding our Erling is no different then VR after I've already put them on 2 engines :(