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how much Camber do i really need?

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    how much Camber do i really need?

    gonna be doing HPDE and auto-x..just trying to have some fun.. no Daily Driver here....
    i've got IE III's w/koni's
    solid M3 offset cab's
    new CA's and tie rods
    aluminium rear shock mounts..

    looking for some camber/caster plates. found flying brick..

    first are these @ $142.50.. just 1 1/2" of camber adjust but no caster



    then this @ $249.50.. much more adjustments except for caster, it also shows on backorder and used by spec E30

    the third is this..@ $349-- shows lots of adjustability but can't fit into budget right yet..


    --HELP---whats best ??
    --Hayden--
    '87 325 coupe- Trak Rat
    '93 318is- 4cyl's of fury
    '92 Integra GS-R--yeah, its fast..
    www.G2IC.com


    #2
    That's a bit of a tricky question. I'm more familier with FWD setups so I'm not going to pretend to have a great answer. Most of the E30's I've seen at the track or autocrossing have more camber in the rear than the front.
    This also has a lot to do with the spring rates the car has and how much the car leans in the corners.
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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      #3
      1. I think that unless you have 2.25/2.5 inch spring diameter ("coilovers") what limits the maximum camber is the spring perch touching the strut tower, not necicerily the camber plates design.
      2. Take into account that some of the plates will raise your front ride hight.
      3. You can change the caster with the M3 offset cabs.
      4. My suggestion is to take front tire temperatures to determine if/how much camber do you need.

      Avner.

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        #4
        Originally posted by joshh View Post
        That's a bit of a tricky question. I'm more familier with FWD setups so I'm not going to pretend to have a great answer. Most of the E30's I've seen at the track or autocrossing have more camber in the rear than the front.
        This also has a lot to do with the spring rates the car has and how much the car leans in the corners.
        actually, it has more to do with the semi trailing arm design in the rear, which gains a lot of camber when you lower it. most don't bother to correct it, but you actually don't want more camber in the rear than in front.
        Build thread

        Bimmerlabs

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          #5
          man there was this sweet M online store with all these sweet parts.

          I can't seem to remember the address though, they made parts for all generations of Ms...and it was german with an option to look at it in english
          R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(

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            #6
            For negative camber, the more the better. It's really that simple and dirty. These cars plow on turn in, and there's only so much you can do to dial that out and not make it spin like a top. I'm running -2 degree fixed plates, and I know you can go more if you're running adjustables with 2.5 inch springs, you can even cut into the strut towers a bit. Obviously, read up on the rules if you're going autoxing and such.

            -Charlie
            Swing wild, brake later, don't apologize.
            '89 324d, '76 02, '98 318ti, '03 Z4, '07 MCS, '07 F800s - Bonafide BMW elitist prick.
            FYYFF

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              #7
              More the better up to a point, depends on your tires also as some really require more camber than others (hoosiers like a lot). But the less you can get away with will help under braking, most PRO-3 racers run like -2 to -3 IIRC.

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                #8
                Running ground controls currently at -1.8... I liked it alot better at about -2.5, definently controlled the plowing but ate tires like a mutha' (when it was still in daily driver status).... The ground controls mounted on a 2.5 ID front coilovers set-up can go to about -4ish. Retail for 300~

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                  #9
                  AutoX you want as much as you can. Generally you'll see -3*+ whatever you can max it out to. Especially if you are running r-compounds, if you don't your just destorying the outside edge of your tires without it.

                  I've noticed with most peoples cars that are lowered they have almost -1.5* built in without putting in plates.

                  One of the nicer things from the adjustable plates is a good bearing compared to stock. If your really throwing the car around you will feel the difference compared to stock soft upper strut bearing. It won't deflect.
                  SM 19 - Serial Destroyer of Cars
                  Turbo '89 325i - It lives! Now the question is for how long?
                  2SlowRcing.com

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                    #10
                    Like others say, the more the better.


                    Keep it slideways!!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Axxe View Post
                      Like others say, the more the better.
                      i can see it now

                      "durr uhhh I put like negative 15 degrees of camber and um, something happened"
                      R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(

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                        #12
                        How much camber do I really need? Camber decreases with suspension bump and body roll. The more of these you have the more static camber you need.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by 92 mtechnic cabrio View Post
                          i can see it now

                          "durr uhhh I put like negative 15 degrees of camber and um, something happened"
                          Roffle :)

                          within reason, of course ;)


                          Keep it slideways!!

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                            #14
                            Get a pyrometer and make sure teh temps are even across the tire. This is the only way to be sure.

                            I run between 3 and 4 degrees.

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                              #15
                              get the vorshlagg, from what i have seen, and experience, they offer the most camber adjustment that you would need. With my H&R race springs and koni yellows, with them set at the least camber, I can get the tires to nearly 0* camber, with them at only like 8mm (bearing to inside of bearing hole, just like the picture above) i have right at -2.9*. Then there is the rest of the adjustment range which is a a shitload more of neg camber. When I autox, I run the most camber that I can dial in, and yes, the tires look like / \ . Literally.
                              My 2.9L Build!

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