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    #16
    Of these two any suggestions which to pursue?

    https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/6167285480.html

    https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rch/cto/6172666863.html

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      #17
      well on face value the red one has about half the miles as the grey one. but on these old cars mileage doesn't mean much.

      Grey guy has already dropped the price from 8500 to 7500, maybe he will go further.

      Whatever e30 you choose I guarantee you it will need work, but thats what we like about them. What you want is the best paint and body you can find. Everything else can be fixed with spanners.

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        #18
        If I was in the market, I'd already be taking that grey one for a test drive.
        ADAMS Autosport

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          #19
          I'd go with the red one. Seems more complete and regardless of what the grey owner says, 303kms is plenty of time for rust to accumulate.
          If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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            #20
            Wow, looking at the price of ALL of the examples suggested and looking at the condition of the cars, I would say your best bet would be importing one from USA. Find a nice looking example on Cali Craigslist, hopefully you can also find a decent owner who actually cares about these cars, and talk to him/her. Yes I agree the process was a little convoluted, but I had everything sorted out in 3 days. Used my Visa points and flew down to LA for free on Sat, drove back and had it registered by the end of the weekend. But, I had a rust free car with "new" coat of paint! for 8500CAD total. Just sayin...

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              #21
              Mustachio (great name)- Would you mind pm'ing me the steps you took to get the car across the border? I have looked into it a few times and keep getting bombarded with information and overwhelmed

              Oh and update on the car search - the grey car he refused the inspection, the red car is probably already sold but I have an outside chance. UGH!

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                #22
                Pm'd you

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                  #23
                  I'd probably buy the first car but I'd want a PPI by an actual E30 enthusiast workshop.

                  The 4.10 LSD with ZF is a red flag to me. Seems like its running stock small case diff which is not at all matched to a ZF box and makes me question what else has been half assed.

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                    #24
                    I'm going to stay away from that first one and trying to find one that is close to stock.

                    Questions for you guys, if the A/C isn't working what is that worth to you? How much would you reduce your offer compared the the same car with a working A/C?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by spidermanning View Post
                      Questions for you guys, if the A/C isn't working what is that worth to you? How much would you reduce your offer compared the the same car with a working A/C?
                      By the price of an A/C system overhaul.
                      Originally posted by kronus
                      would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                        #26
                        Quick search brought back this

                        “Installing a new AC system can run from $2,000 to $5,000, depending on the car and whether or not you’re starting from scratch,”

                        So not starting from scratch but is $2,000 - $3,000 a good ball park estimate?

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                          #27
                          If your parts prices in Canada are as comparable to mine as your currency is, you could probably replace every part of the AC system for $2,000 provided you do it yourself. It's doubtful this would be necessary unless the PO removed the entire system. Usually at the most a failed system needs a compressor, a thorough flush and a new expansion valve.

                          IG @turbovarg
                          '91 318is, M20 turbo
                          [CoTM: 4-18]
                          '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                          - updated 3-17

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by varg View Post
                            Usually at the most a failed system needs a compressor, a thorough flush and a new expansion valve.
                            I'm told it's a good idea to replace the dryer as well when doing major service.
                            Originally posted by kronus
                            would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                              #29



                              Its a fair trek from south Alberta, it has diving boards and maybe the colour isn't the most desirable (lol!), but the price is right.


                              I've seen it on kijiji before so there may be more there than meets the eye. Caveat Emptor.


                              With that said, little risk for what it may be.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by agent View Post
                                I'm told it's a good idea to replace the dryer as well when doing major service.
                                Figured that goes without saying. Replacing the drier is standard operating procedure for any AC repair that involves opening the system.

                                IG @turbovarg
                                '91 318is, M20 turbo
                                [CoTM: 4-18]
                                '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                                - updated 3-17

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