325ix turbo drain question

[CrazyPrime]

I took my car to the dyno the other day to get tuned and the oil seal on the turbo ended up blowing. The shop owner though it might be a feed that is oversized but mine is the recommended -3an and my drain is -10an.
I removed my turbo to rebuild it and my question is if the drain was not draining that would blow out the seal. When I look at the drain line it has oil in it still and it won't drain.
Here is my drain setup it


Should it drain even though it isn't running? I have my drain bung as high as I can get it on my oil pan. Also my car made 240awhp and 280awtq at 6psi before the seals blew.

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[nando]

yeah I don't think it will drain very well there. That side of the pan will have constant oil in it, because of the engine tilt. I guess that's why people recommend tapping higher up in the block. If the line isn't draining with gravity it's not going to drain properly with your turbo on there either.

[cleanasse30]

If the line isn't draining with gravity it's not going to drain properly with your turbo on there either.

I'm not sure that's necessarily true. When the engine is running the engine is circulating some of the oil in the system so the oil level in the pan will drop some.

That being said, I would agree that changing the drain to somewhere on the block would be beneficial in this case given the fact he already blew a turbo seal.

[CrazyPrime]

The Weird part is after I drained the oil out of the pan the oil in the turbo drain stayed in the line. I blew it our with air and it drained. I poured half a quart down the line and it drained fine. There was no oil in the pan though. Nomansland92 runs his on his turbo ix in the exact same place and he has no issues. I was wondering if you don't have vacuum on the crankcase ie a stock setup or a catch can could that create enough back pressure on the drain that it would'nt flow oil? I also didn't clean my drain line after I cut it like a dumbass. when I blew air in it it drained again, could have just been clogged by shit possibly?

[downforce22]

I have my turbo ix drain there and it seems to work fine. I have my valve cover breather to atmosphere so not sure that would do anything.

[CrazyPrime]

I have my turbo ix drain there and it seems to work fine. I have my valve cover breather to atmosphere so not sure that would do anything.

I'm just stumped then I guess I will try to make us shorter and more direct see if that helps.

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[ak-]

Yes, having vac on your crank case would indeed help the oil drain out faster, but it should still be draining with gravity regardless. I don't have experience with iX pans so I can't comment much there, but I don't see why it wouldn't drain seeing how it's high on the pan and successful with other builds.

The length in your line is much above the little kink in your pan's AN fitting at the bottom, so gravity should be doing it's job.
I glanced at your thread and your Holset is used right? It might of been a fluke and you just needed new seals anyways. Also, I thought the recommended feed for a journal bearing Holset is -4AN (proving that your feed/pressure isn't the problem)?
I say replace the seals and try again. Maybe roam around on 6psi for a while before hitting the dyno.

Another thing you can do before you cut the line shorter is replace the line with some plastic transparent tubing with zip-ties or hose clamps to really see what's going on. Have someone rev the car while you're inspecting the tube down under to see if anything is backing up to prove Nando's case.

Oh and thanks for the advice on the sparkplug wire boots - I did what you said for the little internal ring and they went on just fine with no problems!

[CrazyPrime]

Yes, having vac on your crank case would indeed help the oil drain out faster, but it should still be draining with gravity regardless. I don't have experience with iX pans so I can't comment much there, but I don't see why it wouldn't drain seeing how it's high on the pan and successful with other builds.

The length in your line is much above the little kink in your pan's AN fitting at the bottom, so gravity should be doing it's job.
I glanced at your thread and your Holset is used right? It might of been a fluke and you just needed new seals anyways. Also, I thought the recommended feed for a journal bearing Holset is -4AN (proving that your feed/pressure isn't the problem)?
I say replace the seals and try again. Maybe roam around on 6psi for a while before hitting the dyno.

Another thing you can do before you cut the line shorter is replace the line with some plastic transparent tubing with zip-ties or hose clamps to really see what's going on. Have someone rev the car while you're inspecting the tube down under to see if anything is backing up to prove Nando's case.

Oh and thanks for the advice on the sparkplug wire boots - I did what you said for the little internal ring and they went on just fine with no problems!

Yes I'm using the holset ya I mean who knows could have just been shot from the get-go. I'm going to try to shorten it and get a steeper angle on the line. See of that helps. I'm thinking it was just some shifty business and hopefully a 1 time deal. Those are some nice plug wire shields bruh! Glad to hear it helped.

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[CrazyPrime]

Yes, having vac on your crank case would indeed help the oil drain out faster, but it should still be draining with gravity regardless. I don't have experience with iX pans so I can't comment much there, but I don't see why it wouldn't drain seeing how it's high on the pan and successful with other builds.

The length in your line is much above the little kink in your pan's AN fitting at the bottom, so gravity should be doing it's job.
I glanced at your thread and your Holset is used right? It might of been a fluke and you just needed new seals anyways. Also, I thought the recommended feed for a journal bearing Holset is -4AN (proving that your feed/pressure isn't the problem)?
I say replace the seals and try again. Maybe roam around on 6psi for a while before hitting the dyno.

Another thing you can do before you cut the line shorter is replace the line with some plastic transparent tubing with zip-ties or hose clamps to really see what's going on. Have someone rev the car while you're inspecting the tube down under to see if anything is backing up to prove Nando's case.

Oh and thanks for the advice on the sparkplug wire boots - I did what you said for the little internal ring and they went on just fine with no problems!

Thats a great idea I'm probably going to grab some clear line to see how and make sure it is draining I forgot about that inmy last post.

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[E30-323ti]

Remember when the oil comes out of the turbo it isn't nice smooth flowing golden liquid, it's like foam, that's why you need a big drain, and an unobstructed discharge point.

[varg]

There must be some sort of blockage or unseen kink in the hose. The turbo oil drain on my M42 very similar to that, 10AN, 5/8" hose running down to a similar fitting in the oil pan (below the oil level), and I have zero issues. My PCV is just vented to atmosphere.