M42 megasquirt 2 v3.0 Idle control issues HELP!

[ccsdo5]

So I had someone else build me my MS2v3.0 for my M42 just due to not having time to do it myself and I've been having a issue with getting the icv to work on it for a while.

It originally did not have the PWM ICV mod- kit which is just a TIP120 transistor, and a diode. I bought the kit and followed DIYAutotune's instructions on how to install it.

I removed Q4, Q20, D8, and R39 from the existing setup then jumped R39, and installed the TIP120 as followed into the Q4 spot.



Here's pictures of my board after I modified it.





The output for the ICV is Fidle, and I set the valve frequency as close to 255hz which I believe is correct. Here's a picture of my Idle control settings in Tunerstudio.



I also put the diode in the pins for the connector of the idle control valve as followed:



I'm still not getting any response from the valve, I can see that I'm getting 12v from the connector but no matter what I do I can not change the position the valve is in so it's basically like having no icv and it sucks waiting for the car to warm up. Is it possible I damaged the transistor by soldering it too hot, and or the MS board?

Any help would be awesome since I really want to get this thing working so I can make my car more daily drivable than it is right now. :(

[varg]

Where are you getting your +12V for the valve? Are you using the stock wiring harness? I've never run them with a frequency that high, but that wouldn't cause it to not respond. It is possible, however unlikely, that you fried the transistor, but that's kind of hard to do. I had mine working for a while (not that well) but then my idle valve kicked the bucket (I think) before I could get it dialed in so I don't have great info on what the M42 likes or a tune to give you, but IIRC I used 92hz. Also, I seem to recall the IACV only getting power when the fuel pump was on in test mode, so try that.

[ccsdo5]

Yeah I'm still using the stock harness, but interesting I'll see if turning the fuel pump on will cause it to respond. I mean even with the car running I couldn't seem to get the valve to move.

I should plug a stock motronic in and just confirm that the valve is working. I have two of them and I can't get either to work so knowing me they are both bad.

What are you doing for cold starts to keep a constant idle? I mean I know florida isn't like NY where it is 20 degrees in the morning then 60 in the afternoon.

[varg]

I just have the throttle body adjusted so that it idles around 800rpm cold. It idles at 1,100-1,200rpm when hot. I also use idle advance and cold advance.

[ccsdo5]

ahhh I see, I guess I should just do something like that, I originally had the plate cracked so I had a cold idle of like 600 and warm of around 900. I wasn't playing with cold advance or idle advance though. I am about to remake my exhaust to add a muffler and resonator so the car isn't as droney on the inside and juster quieter. Thankfully it is starting to warm up so I don't really have any problem with running the cracked throttle plate anymore... but when it is winter it just sucks...