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1989 325is Build

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    1989 325is Build

    Hey there fellow r3v members. I've finally decided to start a build thread for my car. Not only as a reference for maintenance and modifications, but in the hopes that some of the things I do to it will be interesting to some.

    Anyway, this is my first E30 and first car, which is awesome. It's a 89 325is. I picked it up last March from a guy in NJ. The odometer stopped working at 111,000 and the PO said the car has about 180. Besides all the typical IS goodies, the car has euro smilies, euro grills, map light, premium speakers, JOM coils and ST swaybars. Overall, besides the horrendous paint (or lack of) I think its a pretty good, fairly unmolested car to start with.

    Couple of pictures from when I first picked her up:


    First course of action after I got it was to replace the front shocks which were beyond blown. Got a set lightly of used koni adjustable shocks and threw those in there. Since then then I've pretty much just been daily driving her and replacing and doing maintenance as stuff breaks.
    Got some new wheels, MRR FF3's

    Fuel pump crapped out one day, so I replaced that with a TRE performance pump. Then the radiator finally died, so that got replaced with a CXracing all aluminum radiator. I was a little skeptical about the CXracing rad, but so far I've had no issues.

    Forgot to mention I also got a bavauto strut bar when I picked up those wheels. Man, that thing was a pain to get on....

    Since then I've just been doing so basic maintenance, fuel lines, various gaskets. Painted the valve cover too, as you can see. Trying to get the engine bay looking clean.

    Eventually started working on some basic cosmetics.
    Fleabay lip and some clear turn signals freshens up the front. Still need to get some fogs and brake ducts.

    Some shots at the car wash from a little while ago. I like taking pictures of it when its wet so you can't tell how bad the paint is haha.



    I have another rear bumper thats crack free and has all the trim, which I need to paint and throw on there..

    This is what I got so far. I've been hoarding tons of parts I need to install, so stay tuned for more, thanks!
    Last edited by sampayne; 07-18-2017, 07:57 AM.

    Originally posted by 2mAn
    The BMW V6 is the best

    #2
    Replaced the motor and trans mounts over the weekend, with garagistic "HD rubber" mounts.



    I definitely need to replace the guibo soon, it's starting to look a little sketchy..



    Had to assemble mega-extension to reach the driver side mount.







    I couldn't believe the difference in the way the car felt after replacing these. Tighter shifts, less vibrations and all around smoother. I guess the old mounts were really starting to get pretty soft and mushy..

    Originally posted by 2mAn
    The BMW V6 is the best

    Comment


      #3
      Looks good bud. Replaced the Timing belt and WP yet?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Blackthorn View Post
        Looks good bud. Replaced the Timing belt and WP yet?
        Thanks! PO said it was done around 20-30k miles ago, but the water pump is starting to leak a little bit. So I'm going to do it all in the near future.

        Originally posted by 2mAn
        The BMW V6 is the best

        Comment


          #5
          Finally got around to installing the innovate mtx-l wideband I got for christmas. It took me a while to figure out where I wanted to mount it, but I finally decided on the far left air vent.

          I want it to look sorta "oem" and fit seamlessly into the car, so I found this laptop cooling thing at goodwill for a couple bucks, which has the exact black textured plastic I was looking for.



          I made a cardboard template to fit the space where the vent used to be and then traced that onto the plastic and cut it out.



          Looks pretty good with the gauge in it.



          Installed it in the car. Wiring was pretty straightforward, but man the old o2 sensor was really IN there.

          Bad photo showing all the wires tucked away in the engine bay.



          Gauge installed in the car. I'm pleased with the way it came out.



          Then I went for a cruise to test out the wideband and this happened............



          Just my luck.

          Fifth cylinder intake side.

          more updates to come...

          Originally posted by 2mAn
          The BMW V6 is the best

          Comment


            #6
            Good stuff so far!

            Broken rocker arms seem to happen all the time.

            Good luck on getting it fixed.
            My previous build (currently E30-less)
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390

            A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession

            Comment


              #7
              I like those wheels.

              While replacing the rocker arm I suggest replacing the timing belt. Previous owner changed my belt also, but that turned out to be a lie....a very expensive and painful lie.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by MR E30 325is View Post
                Good stuff so far!

                Broken rocker arms seem to happen all the time.

                Good luck on getting it fixed.
                Thanks!

                Originally posted by e30davie View Post
                I like those wheels.

                While replacing the rocker arm I suggest replacing the timing belt. Previous owner changed my belt also, but that turned out to be a lie....a very expensive and painful lie.
                Thanks, I can't wait to throw them back on when the weather gets a little better.

                Originally posted by 2mAn
                The BMW V6 is the best

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ok, so my original plan was to pull the radiator and everything else in the way, so I could just slide the rocker shaft through the cam gear and keep the timing belt on. Just like everyone else is saying, I definitely should/want do the timing belt, but I'm up at school right now and need to be able to drive home for spring break, which is in less than 2 weeks. So I'm just trying to temporarily get the car running and be able to get it to my house where I have the space and proper tools to actually work on it. Out on the street in front of my apartment is not very ideal.

                  I was optimistic that the rocker shaft would *hopefully* slide out, but man was I wrong. After trying to get the shaft out carefully with some rags and vice grips, I just bit the bullet and slapped the grips right on the shaft and got it out. That led to an order on pelican for some new shafts.



                  After the shaft and rockers were out of the way, I was able to get a good look at the cam. And this is what I find....................







                  I'm at a loss on why the cam is this bad. I rarely drive it hard or beat on it, pretty much just a daily driver going to and from school every once in a while. I obviously don't know what the PO did to this car but it seams pretty rough. Anyone have any ideas why it would be worn this bad? Could the oil prayer be clogged or something like that? Regardless, looks like I'm going to need a new cam and a head rebuild is in my future.

                  I was originally going to replace all the rockers on the intake side since I have it all apart. But now I'm probably just going to put all the old rockers in (and one new replacement) since I would assume it would be pointless to put all fresh rockers on a cam in that shape. Then, after that drive it home for spring break and pull off the head and do a full rebuild, and then do all the other "while your in there" stuff.

                  Any ideas or suggestions appreciated. Thanks

                  Originally posted by 2mAn
                  The BMW V6 is the best

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Good call just replacing the bad rocker. Start collecting parts... shrick cams, more rockers and springs, 2.8l crank, crank spacer, custom pistons, conn rods, bearings and squid chip. Or just leave it be.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Given that you're a student, presumably on a budget but with enough mechanical ability to open up your motor, I'd suggest you consider a motor swap. If you can find a good motor from a trusted source you'll end up ahead of the game financially as M20B25s are still both common and inexpensive in your area.

                      Have you considered reclearing the hood and other areas with clear coat failure?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by sampayne View Post


                        I'm at a loss on why the cam is this bad. I rarely drive it hard or beat on it, pretty much just a daily driver going to and from school every once in a while. I obviously don't know what the PO did to this car but it seams pretty rough. Anyone have any ideas why it would be worn this bad?
                        I just recalled where I've seen similar wear before: a badly neglected motor which had pitting from rust damage (possibly from sitting for an extended time opened up for a repair in a humid environment) combined with heavy wear from frequently running low on oil between changes due to a heavy oil leak. Look closely and you can see the patterning left by the rust spots. :(

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by uturn View Post
                          Good call just replacing the bad rocker. Start collecting parts... shrick cams, more rockers and springs, 2.8l crank, crank spacer, custom pistons, conn rods, bearings and squid chip. Or just leave it be.
                          Haha, I'd love to go all out on a stroker build. I have a full set of rockers, shafts and new oe spec cam for the head rebuild. I really wanted to get a bimmerheads reground cam because they really aren't too much more expensive, but I just don't have the extra funds right now. However, I do have an SSSquid chip, 19lb injectors and m30 AFM waiting to go in..

                          Originally posted by Shock(/\)ave View Post
                          Given that you're a student, presumably on a budget but with enough mechanical ability to open up your motor, I'd suggest you consider a motor swap. If you can find a good motor from a trusted source you'll end up ahead of the game financially as M20B25s are still both common and inexpensive in your area.

                          Have you considered reclearing the hood and other areas with clear coat failure?
                          Yeah thats definitely on the to do list. The hood is not original and has a rattle can paint job, so that is going to need to be completely sanded down and resprayed, as well as some body work since it appears a large tree branch fell on top of it leaving a nice dent. The fenders are definitely savable though.

                          Originally posted by Shock(/\)ave View Post
                          I just recalled where I've seen similar wear before: a badly neglected motor which had pitting from rust damage (possibly from sitting for an extended time opened up for a repair in a humid environment) combined with heavy wear from frequently running low on oil between changes due to a heavy oil leak. Look closely and you can see the patterning left by the rust spots. :(
                          Man, thats a bummer to hear. PO said he got the car from a buddy as a project but he ended up never really driving it and it just sat in his driveway. (his main project car was a slick top 318) So I couldn't imagine the engine being open collecting rust and such. But I obviously have no idea who the previous owners before him did. Would this rust damage be all throughout the engine or just mainly the head?

                          Thanks for the input

                          Originally posted by 2mAn
                          The BMW V6 is the best

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by sampayne View Post
                            Yeah thats definitely on the to do list. The hood is not original and has a rattle can paint job, so that is going to need to be completely sanded down and resprayed, as well as some body work since it appears a large tree branch fell on top of it leaving a nice dent. The fenders are definitely savable though.
                            I've had and have seen amazing results from D.I.Y. paint work, but preparation is absolutely key; when I repainted a panel on one of my earlier cars I even wet sanded between each coat of paint. It took patience and effort, but the result was indistinguishable from the factory paint.

                            Originally posted by sampayne View Post
                            Man, thats a bummer to hear.
                            I hated to have to write that, but that's my honest answer. I'd be gutted if I opened up my motor and found that. :(

                            Originally posted by sampayne View Post
                            PO said he got the car from a buddy as a project but he ended up never really driving it and it just sat in his driveway. (his main project car was a slick top 318) So I couldn't imagine the engine being open collecting rust and such. But I obviously have no idea who the previous owners before him did.
                            I've seen it from a head gasket failure with old coolant sitting in the cylinders, but an interrupted valve adjustment could just as easily have caused it. I'm sure that's what I'm looking at though, because I can actually see the outlines of the rust spots through the heavy wear.

                            One a positive note these motors are very durable, and you could easily drive the car in this condition for years. You'll be down on power a bit, but I'd bet it wouldn't leave you stranded due to the wear in the motor.

                            Originally posted by sampayne View Post
                            Would this rust damage be all throughout the engine or just mainly the head?
                            Was there any sludge in the motor when you were in there? What condition are the cylinders in?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Shock(/\)ave View Post
                              I've seen it from a head gasket failure with old coolant sitting in the cylinders, but an interrupted valve adjustment could just as easily have caused it. I'm sure that's what I'm looking at though, because I can actually see the outlines of the rust spots through the heavy wear.

                              One a positive note these motors are very durable, and you could easily drive the car in this condition for years. You'll be down on power a bit, but I'd bet it wouldn't leave you stranded due to the wear in the motor.
                              Yeah with the cam worn down that much and loosing some lift, its definitely down on power a bit.


                              Originally posted by Shock(/\)ave View Post
                              Was there any sludge in the motor when you were in there? What condition are the cylinders in?
                              I remember when I did the first oil change on the car right after getting it, the oil was pretty nasty and sludgy. But from what I can tell from the head since then, theres not really any sludge after keeping up on maintenance and doing regular oil changes and such. I'll see what the cylinders are like when I pull the head off.

                              Originally posted by 2mAn
                              The BMW V6 is the best

                              Comment

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