m60b44 build... I think I already ruined my block...

[JGood]

Today I had a friend stop by who works at a machine shop building domestic performance engines. He thinks I'll be fine with the scratches in those two cylinder walls, and that I shouldn't see any significant blow by from them. That's a bit more reassuring for me. He's going to give me a hand reassembling everything, so that will make me feel a bit better as well.

I think I'm just going to keep going as I was, just clean the gasket surfaces and the other 4 pistons. Then slap the heads on with all new gaskets & timing guides and run it as-is. The m62 bottom end was fine prior to removing the heads, and the m60 heads were fine prior to removing them. I'd be okay with throwing either of those engines in my car to daily drive, so there's no reason to think they won't be okay combining them.

[MattAvino]

Looks good.
I will add something that I don't know from experience but it's something I've heard from a few sources (including my engines teacher). Scotch Brite pads are fantastic, but apparently they break down more than you might think. Extremely small pieces of brittle carbon (which these pads are partly composed of) will fall off and possibly make their way into the motor and imbed themselves into rod or main bearings.
It seems as if you have been quite anal about cleaning out any possible contaminants while cleaning so I think you will be fine. Doing a thorough oil prime w/o the pan should be good insurance to be sure any possible solids are flushed out.
But that's just the advisement I've received from others, so, again, I'm not speaking from experience. I've simply avoided using scotch brites on engines unless the whole block is being torn down.
Also, I wouldn't knock the edges off that scratch on the cylinder wall because that will potentially increase your blow by and slightly reduce you compression. Oil seals your rings and gives you compression, therefore oil can simply fill the scratch.
Have I said too much?

[JGood]

Looks good.
I will add something that I don't know from experience but it's something I've heard from a few sources (including my engines teacher). Scotch Brite pads are fantastic, but apparently they break down more than you might think. Extremely small pieces of brittle carbon (which these pads are partly composed of) will fall off and possibly make their way into the motor and imbed themselves into rod or main bearings.
It seems as if you have been quite anal about cleaning out any possible contaminants while cleaning so I think you will be fine. Doing a thorough oil prime w/o the pan should be good insurance to be sure any possible solids are flushed out.
But that's just the advisement I've received from others, so, again, I'm not speaking from experience. I've simply avoided using scotch brites on engines unless the whole block is being torn down.
Also, I wouldn't knock the edges off that scratch on the cylinder wall because that will potentially increase your blow by and slightly reduce you compression. Oil seals your rings and gives you compression, therefore oil can simply fill the scratch.
Have I said too much?

I read the same thing after using it, and am worried about that as well. I mentioned it to my engine-building buddy, he said I should be OK, just turn the engine upside down when I'm using it to clean the deck surface, and use ATF and a rag to wipe everything down afterwords (apparently ATF attracts dirt). Then I could blow oil through the whole oil system to clean anything else out. Ideally, you'd strip it to a bare block to clean everything, but I should be OK doing it this way. Guess we'll see!

[The Dark Side of Will]

I believe you've got that backwards - just because it's not torque + angle doesn't mean it's not a tty bolt. Pretty sure the only purpose those angle gauges serve is to accurately torque tty bolts.

The angle measurement serves to more accurately torque critical fasteners. My understanding is that torque alone is not sufficiently accurate to TTY a fastener without risking overtightening it.

IE, typical T+A ( ) specs might be 15 ftlbs + 90 degrees. On a 120 mm main bolt with 100mm of grip depth, this is not TTY. On a 20mm flywheel bolt with 5mm of grip depth, it is TTY.

Grip depth is the depth of whatever the bolt is clamping... so it's the free length of the bolt between the head and what the bolt threads into that can stretch.

So with 100mm of free length, the 90 degrees isn't enough % elongation to bring the bolt to a yield strain. However, with 5mm of free length, the % elongation does get into the yield range.

And the only really ACCURATE way to measure the clamping force of a bolt is via stretch, which is how rod bolt tension is measured in performance engine builds.

[jalopi]

Scotch Brite pads are fantastic, but apparently they break down more than you might think. Extremely small pieces of brittle carbon (which these pads are partly composed of) will fall off and possibly make their way into the motor and imbed themselves into rod or main bearings.

Interesting.. is this supposed to be a situation where the bearings are exposed or covered (i.e. caps on)?

[MattAvino]

Even with the caps on.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[The Dark Side of Will]

The particles can be anywhere inside the engine and the return oil will wash them down to the sump where they can be sucked up by the oil pump.

However, they get filtered out by the oil filter.
Not ideal, but shouldn't be harmful as long as you keep the debris out of pressurized oil galleries.

[325est13psi]

when i cleaned my m62 using the scotch brite pads, i used a shop vac on the blow setting and aimed it at the engine so any material that came off would be blown out/off the engine

[P Arkus]

I just cleaned my M60 block this weekend. Scared the sh!t out of me as I saw some dirt on the cylinder walls trying to get by the pistons. But I took Justins advice, turned the block upside down and vacuumed it all out. Also used a syringe to squirt some fresh oil over the cylinder walls when rotating the block to get the pistons to TDC. Once I cleaned it all, I found 1 cylinder with a few scratches on the wall, but none of them were deep at all. I ran my fingernail across them and couldnt even feel anything so I feel I should be safe. Still gonna try to do some sort of oil flush before putting it all back together to grab any dirt that might not have come out.