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**lukeADE335i** · 09-10-2016, 04:23 PM

Yep - I had that problem with mine too when the brushes in my alternator died (and I couldn't flip it due to the oil filter). I ended up replacing the brushes with the alternator still in the car.

**ThatOneEuroE30** · 09-11-2016, 06:32 PM

Seems like changing changing the alt is one thing people never thought of when doing swap haha.

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**lukeADE335i** · 09-13-2016, 05:08 AM

Yes - but BMW never intended the M30B35 to be in the e30, so there's no real solution to it.

e32s and e34s have the clearance at the front to remove the bolt without removing the radiator.

**ThatOneEuroE30** · 09-13-2016, 07:29 AM

Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post

Yes - but BMW never intended the M30B35 to be in the e30, so there's no real solution to it.

e32s and e34s have the clearance at the front to remove the bolt without removing the radiator.

I wonder if alpina ran into these issues when they made the b6's and 333i

**lukeADE335i** · 09-19-2016, 03:36 PM

Probably not, at least on the early B6 and 333i, as the radiator is in the nose on the other side of the radiator support + the B32 / B34 has a different oil filter housing too, so that might help.

Pulling the radiator out the change the alternator isn't that big a deal, it's just that dumping the coolant and bleeding the system is one of my pet peeves (on any car, not just the M30).

**nighthawk** · 09-23-2016, 09:29 AM

I've actually ran into having to replace the alternator after my swap. Not wanting to remove the radiator and have to re-bleed everything, I just cut the long bottom bolt in half and removed it. Reinstalled a new bolt and nut backwards so that the nut is on the front side of the alternator. In case I need to remove it again later.

**glnr13** · 09-23-2016, 09:46 AM

Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.

**ThatOneEuroE30** · 09-23-2016, 10:33 AM

Originally posted by glnr13 View Post

Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.

Im running a b34 with a b35 intake

**glnr13** · 09-23-2016, 10:36 AM

That runs the filter downwards below the intake right? Which explains why you guys couldn't flip the bolt around. B35 filter housing goes upwards.

**nighthawk** · 09-23-2016, 12:22 PM

Originally posted by glnr13 View Post

Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.

M30b35.

Its possible to flip the bolt around, but not with the radiator on.
When you try to pull it out the front, it just hits the radiator and doesn't come out all the way.

**glnr13** · 09-23-2016, 12:29 PM

yeah, I encountered that. I slid the radiator up 4-5" without disconnecting the hoses so that I could get the clearance to remove the bolt. I was wondering more about the couple of guys that could not get the bolt on from the back due to their oil filter housing.

**lukeADE335i** · 09-24-2016, 06:27 AM

I'm running a M30B35 and the bolt couldn't push through from the back as it hit on the housing - wonder if there's some sort of difference in the housing on the Euro models vs. US. Did the M30 run an oil cooler in the US? *Edit... looking at the other thread on M30 oil coolers, it would seem they didn't.

**ThatOneEuroE30** · 09-24-2016, 07:36 AM

Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post

I'm running a M30B35 and the bolt couldn't push through from the back as it hit on the housing - wonder if there's some sort of difference in the housing on the Euro models vs. US. Did the M30 run an oil cooler in the US? *Edit... looking at the other thread on M30 oil coolers, it would seem they didn't.

No they did not have oil coolers only euro m30 did.

My only issue with having to raise rad is it turns a 1 man job into a 2 man job which makes anything take longer for me cause i cant get help to save my life. Always get excuses. I got lucky and the guys in the shop next door to mine where hanging around when i did mine so i got help from them.

**TimeMachinE30** · 01-02-2019, 12:13 PM

So the NAPA zip ties to mount the fan are kosher?

And I am not seeing the way to wire this up?

Many of the aforementioned links are bad.

Whats the best way to wire up a fan on the M30 swap now after all these years?

Got this:

Spal 30101517 Pusher Fan

No AC.

Little research: (tons of cooling/electric fan threads)

Installing Spal Electrical Fan - S52 E30 Sedan: Part 7 - Vídeo Dailymotion

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6e4h2l

Before our first drive, which admittingly by the looks of it appears to still be a little far in the future, we want to make sure that all the essentials are installed and functioning so we can safely take the sedan on its maiden voyage. \rThere are many ways you can wire in your aftermarket electrical fans, but this is the most straight forward method we could come up with if you have existing fan wiring in your car. This SPAL fan is a single stage, so you will lose the Normal/High speed functionality the stock fan offers. However, this aftermarket fan is quieter and more efficient.\rAlso, Pusher vs Puller? Puller fans are more efficient, but we just simply could not fit one between the radiator and our engine.even the slim ones. Hence, we went with a pusher fan. If you have the room however, we recommend a puller fan. \r\rQuick recap of the task:\r- Use the High speed fan wiring / Relay\r- Fan wiring on body, BRN wire is ground, GRN/BLK is high speed\r- Adapt your Spal fan wiring to your stock wire plug\r- Use temp switch 6131136427282 which is 82 degree 2 prong\r- Temp switch wiring, use GRN/BLK and BRN/BLK\r- (BLK wire is for normal speed)\r\rAs always, remember that we are nor trained mechanics so take everything we say and show in our videos with a grain of salt.its intended to be used for entertainment purposes only. Always do your own research and make sure you understand what you are doing before starting any modifications. If you do not feel comfortable with a task, seek help from a trained professional. \r\rParts used in this video:\r- SPAL 16 High Performance Fan - Push, Curved\r- Auxiliary Fan Switch 82 Degrees - 6131136427282 \r\r● Cont us:\rEmail: saltcityeuros@gmail.com\rIG/Snapchat @SaltCityEuros\rFB: \rPatreon: \r\r● SCE Shirts Available here:\r\r\rMusic:\rChuki Beats: Spring - Old School Boom Bap Hip Hop Instrumental\r\r\rSaboteur: Vision\r\r\rSaboteur: Friday Jam Session\r

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2504401&postcount=57&p=2504401&postcount=57

**lukeADE335i** · 01-02-2019, 07:55 PM

On mine I just used the stock wiring for the e30 Aux fan. It's on a 30 amp fuse, so works fine. The trick is to use a lower temp fan switch - the two popular options seem to be an e36 80/88 degree switch, or an 82 degree switch from an e28.

I just run my fan as a single speed, with the 82 degree switch from an e28. I run the switch in the thermostat housing so that it gets a correct read on the engine temperature - the switch mounted in the side of the radiator can be a bit hit and miss.

I've run this setup for over 100,000km and have had zero overheating issues, even driving in traffic in over 100F, which we get fairly regularly down here in summer... it's going to be 106F today!

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