Early and late model differences - what can('t) be changed?

[stairmast0r]

There are probably numerous "early vs late model differences??/" threads, and there are definitely a few web pages dedicated to the topic.However, none of them really touch on everything at once, so it's hard to get a clear understanding of all the changes.

That said, I'm curious to know not only the differences, but what can and can't be reasonably changed out on these cars. For instance, right now I'm looking to get my first E30 with as little money as possible. Just something with a straight, mostly rust-free body that I can fix up over time as money comes around and be left with a sense of accomplishment and a car that's truly perfect. Because my priority is that the car be dirt cheap, I'm not as concerned about getting one that's just right. At the same time, I really prefer the look of the early tail lights, but what if those come at the price of crappy engine management or a single trunk gas shock?

However, there are some things you can't reasonably be expected to change. It's easy enough to trim the plastic bumpers for a pre-facelift car, but rear wheel arches, tail lights, and things like that are beyond what a lot of people are willing to do. Motronic 1.1 to 1.3 is possible, but also pretty involved and it would be nice to avoid having to do it yourself.

So, what are all of the changes between model years of the E30, and which ones are nontrivial to retrofit onto a "wrong" model car? Personally I only care about the 325/i/e, but a lot of others are probably interested in the other models as well.

[Stephen]

If you want to get in cheap, get an early car and put euros (or plastics) on it when you have the money. Done. Converting to large tails would be silly imo. An early "i" car will be less work, but its not hard to either headswap or b25 swap the eta cars. There are plenty of other little differences like window regulators and fuel systems, but they work and its not really a huge difference to your ownership experience.

[roguetoaster]

What can't be changed? Rustproofing.

[mbonder]

Honestly, the question you need to ask yourself is if you plan on staying with an m10/m20/m42 engine or whether you will install an m/s5x engine.

If you know at some point in the future you'll do an engine swap, then it really doesn't matter which car you get.

But if you like the early taillight cars and want to keep an m20 engine, I would get the best of that generation, which would be a one model year car, the 1987 325is. Smaller taillights, all sports options, newer engine management, best exterior looks besides an mtech I car (could always transform to that status if desired).

Otherwise you'll be stuck with an eta engined car, which are dogs regardless of trim and transmission.

[ELVA164]

Motronic 1.1 to 1.3 takes about 5 minutes, and I think it's a downgrade. Also the early models use springs for the trunk, which work fine. I'd get the model with the most things you would want to change down the road on something else. I picked the 87 because the bigger bumpers are good peace of mind on a daily, it looks super cool with the iS spoiler valance, and I like the smaller rear lights and bigger rear arches. There's nothing else about a late model I couldn't add if I wanted to. Also like I mentioned, the 1.1 tune is noticeably peppier than the various 1.3 boxes and I like having the option to use either.

[stonea]

I'm going to be this guy.... but buying the cheapest e30 usually means buying the most expensive one. Save up and buy a decent one to start out with.

[e30davie]

Remember you are looking at buying a 30yr+ old car. Generally if *insert part* hasn't been replaced already, it needs to be replaced soon. If you are on a budget (which is fine, i am too) my opinion is you make your decision based purely on rust, body condition and interior condition. EVERYTHING else can be fixed by a backyarder swinging spanners in a driveway. Obviously try and get an engine that works. But fixing rust, paint and interiors the costs add up very fast.

However you need to be prepared to spend the money on parts to get it up to scratch, else the car will sit there while you "wait for money to come" and you wont get any enjoyment out of it. Then you will sell it a year down the track for less than you paid for it...