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I feel every single bump,crack, pebble onthe road it's worst cause my widows rattle l

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    #46
    When I opened up my driver's door to fix a grinding squeak on raising/lowering, I found the rear plastic wheel was not lined up well with the channel. The regulator's sheet metal wheel arms is easily bent - a slight tweak and now nice and quiet. Must have been bent slightly out of shape by someone leaning hard on the raised glass with the door open.

    Bearmw, I also found the wheels in their channels have a fair bit of side-to-side play, but since the wheels were not badly worn and the channels quite rigid, that play must be by design. I cleaned with WD-40 & greased with Lithium, seems much better.

    I use Dynamat in a few places - rear panels and speaker enclosures are pretty well covered - but avoid metal with direct contact to outside. The big sheets of metal door may be a tempting spot to cover, but will likely promote rust, and will be nearly impossible to clean it out without visibly denting the outside face of the door later on.

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      #47
      I discovered that a major source of rattling when the top is down was from the top frame rubbing and bouncing on the body metal in the storage compartment. Upon closer inspection I saw that there was some factory clear rubber like cushioning material that had seen better days as well a few other areas where the paint looked to be worn. This lead me to believe that the top was moving around too much and hitting the body at these contact points.

      I removed all the old cushion like material in the compartment as well as cleaned up the worn spots and then applied hot glue to all the obvious spots. Now with the top down it is significantly quieter.

      Best of all was that the fix was free as I already had a glue gun.
      Last edited by Bearmw; 08-24-2017, 03:02 AM.
      Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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        #48
        The gas struts in your top hinges also tension the frame which should reducing rattling as they do in the seats. I'm yet to see a top where these werent blown since most people dont even know they exist.
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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          #49
          Originally posted by Mixedbyjairo View Post
          Hey everyone.. so this is my 1st e30, it's a 1987 325i convertible. I'm not sure how the ride is supposed to feel but man it's a rough one unless the road is smooth. What makes it worst all the rattle in the cabin from the windows and other random things.

          Is there way to tighten the window glass ?, or maybe change the seals on my top so the window sit in place better ? What I was really thinking is getting the ecs tuning Front and rear suspension refresher kit..with Hopes that it makes a huge difference

          What I have on the car now

          Wheels: Jnc 16x8 RS reps with bf goodrich g force sport comp2, 205/45/16 a little bit of tire stretch

          Front: Bc racing coilovers set to the softest setting. lowered, I can fit two fingers from the tire to the wheel well .. stock sway bar

          Rear: I will be installing Hyperco springs with Ireland engineering hight adjusters and koni yellows and new shock mounts


          Thanks for the help everyone 🤞🏼






          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Well, If your spring rate is too low, you are sitting on the bump stops. If its common rate, you are sitting on the stops most of the time. The fact that your cheap coil overs are set full soft doesn't mean a thing, because that is just rebound damping. It doesn't do a thing for compression damping. So, due to the fact that your roll center is crap, your spring rate is way too low due to the bad roll center, you are bottoming out on the bump stops all the time. That will make for a harsh ride.

          I've tried the following setups on my car:
          Koni springs, Bilstein struts with koni rears. = understeer with the back damping fighting the front. Soft bottomed more than I'd like.
          Koni Springs with TC-Klein custom valved dampers = on the bump stops all the time. total crap. WAY under sprung. Bottomed over everything.
          H&R race springs, TCK Konis = total crap bottomed over everything Well damped in the rebound area however.
          H&R Race + Bilstein Sports =total crap, bottomed over everything. Rebound was fine up front, totally lacking in the rear. (Who's feeling sea sick?)
          H&R Race Bilstein sports + TCK Konis (rear)= crap, but at least the back end wasn't under damped.

          Turner J stock with TCK Koni sports = Perfection. Doesn't bottom, not too harsh, firm but very well controlled. 23 hr drive last monday with full solid shock and strut mounts, poly and delrin bushings was not a big deal. Too hard you say? Not in the least, its firm, but not harsh, and not anywhere near the harshness of the suspension crashing into the bumpstops over a pebble. The car corners flat, feels positive at the wheel. I can't say anything bad about the setup other than its hard to find.

          Will
          '59 Alfa Romeo 101.02 Giulietta Sprint
          '69 Alfa Romeo 105.51 1750 GTV (R.I.P)
          '69 Datsun 2000 roadster Vintage race car
          '88 BMW M3

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