Dblias Cams

[Sykohtic]

So with my build I'm very interested in using the Dblias 290 degree cam.

Yes, to get said cam I will have to import it. After converting Euros to USD, and factoring in the shipping costs listed on the Dblias site, the overall price for a new cam to my front door should be less than 410 USD, which is around 80 USD less than the most comparable Schrick (the 288).

So my question is why not? Is there anything anyone knows of thats inherently wrong with the Dblias stuff? I know their ITB kit is not well favored and has pretty much been knocked off its rocker by the RHD kit, but is there any reason to not want one of their cams?

[TobyB]

I'm a cheap bastard, so I tend to try regrinds first. $100 for a similar grind on the
stock cam s more my way of thinking for sometthing as mild as a 290.

www.deltacams.com is who I've walked into in the past, and usually walk out happy...
But they are very much a 'phone or in person kind of business- not so much for the internets.

Not what you asked, but the answer I had...

t

[zaq123]

good cams. Just received one a couple of days ago. shipping took forever.
They only reason I wend dbilas, they have 276/276 cam that I wanted and schrick has nothing close to that. If you are looking to go 290, I would consider 288/288 schrick. yes it's $80 more but has "local" availability and Schrick name. If you are set on 290 only then....

[digger]

x2 the dbilas 290 would be barely any different to the schrick, and that schrick grind is well proven. if it was substantially different to the schrick then sure id say go for it.

[Sykohtic]

At that same price in that degree range, there is a 290, 292, 296, and 304. So I have a lot of degrees to pick from.

I'm going to be using a nuke cam gear, so I can dial the power band down the rev range a bit. I'm also going to be running upgraded valve springs, so the car will have he capacity to rev higher to utilize the cam. 7 grand is sort of the safe area, I'm not sure how strong the Schrick valve springs are, but I figure they must be pretty good as they approve their use with their 304.

296 is probably the hottest I dare go though. I've always heard going anything 300 or above is basically saying "Idgaf about idle and running smoothly below 4 grand". But if you think I can get away with a 304 on a street car without sacrificing street-ability ad idle entirely, then hey why not right? lol that said, it would actually appear to be cheaper than a Schrick 288 OR a Dblias 290 to go with the Schrick 304 due to Turner (like I said as it appears) packaging the Schrick valve springs in for around $582, which is over a hundred dollars cheaper than buying the 290 and the Schrick springs and near two hundred cheaper than buying the Turner package with the 288 and valve springs. But again, thats also a lot of sacrifice. Opinions?

I considered reground cams, however I was warned that going beyond a 284 in a regrind probably wouldn't be optimal. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[zaq123]

what are your engine build spec? will you be spending a lot of time at the red line? IMO, I wouldn't call 304 a street cam, or 288 for that matter.

At that same price in that degree range, there is a 290, 292, 296, and 304. So I have a lot of degrees to pick from.

I'm going to be using a nuke cam gear, so I can dial the power band down the rev range a bit. I'm also going to be running upgraded valve springs, so the car will have he capacity to rev higher to utilize the cam. 7 grand is sort of the safe area, I'm not sure how strong the Schrick valve springs are, but I figure they must be pretty good as they approve their use with their 304.

296 is probably the hottest I dare go though. I've always heard going anything 300 or above is basically saying "Idgaf about idle and running smoothly below 4 grand". But if you think I can get away with a 304 on a street car without sacrificing street-ability ad idle entirely, then hey why not right? lol that said, it would actually appear to be cheaper than a Schrick 288 OR a Dblias 290 to go with the Schrick 304 due to Turner (like I said as it appears) packaging the Schrick valve springs in for around $582, which is over a hundred dollars cheaper than buying the 290 and the Schrick springs and near two hundred cheaper than buying the Turner package with the 288 and valve springs. But again, thats also a lot of sacrifice. Opinions?

I considered reground cams, however I was warned that going beyond a 284 in a regrind probably wouldn't be optimal. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Sykohtic]

what are your engine build spec? will you be spending a lot of time at the red line? IMO, I wouldn't call 304 a street cam, or 288 for that matter.

The engine will be a 3.0L stroker (M54B30 bottom end balanced and if possible lightened), high compression pistons on the stock 84mm bore(11:1 by current figuring), ported intake +1mm, planning ITBs, light weight flywheel, and custom exhaust (tbd), running on Megasquirt. No plans for meth injection as of right now, but possibly down the line as It might help keep the motor healthy.

Car is primarily going to be a weekend warrior, but there may be a soon approaching time where it may drive around the country. Thats why I shy away from the 304 down to the low 290s. It's more expensive but its still got the characteristics of a street car. I'd love to put in a 304 and just see how much power it makes, but I don't think driving a racecar is all that practical on the street if I'm totally honest. Its somewhat possible with the cam gear to make the car slightly more street friendly by making the engine come on cam earlier, but it still won't be much of a cruiser.

[zaq123]

Are you going to red line her across the country? I have a hard time understanding why you need 304 or 290 etc... Interesting engine concept...Stock bore size, 89.6 stroke and all.... what pistons will you be using?

[digger]

for something around 296 degrees duration the Z58 ENEM (non turbo version) would be better than the dbilas 296 IMO. its a more modern grind with more lobe time-area for the same duration. valve springs from Eibach are very good but you need to do a bit of research and calculation to work out which p/n. email RHD (rama) he will likely know a good spring set as he uses them for the roller follower cam, you could even buy a spring set with retainers from him

[Sykohtic]

Are you going to red line her across the country? I have a hard time understanding why you need 304 or 290 etc... Interesting engine concept...Stock bore size, 89.6 stroke and all.... what pistons will you be using?

Custom forged pistons. A friend had a 284 regrind on his stock B25 bottom end and said it actually wasn't all that bad to drive. With the extra half liter I feel I can afford to run a hotter cam as the extra displacement should fill in for some torque loss below 4 grand.

The idea is to sort of push the envelope of an NA street car. I'm taking inspiration from Korman's GPU class car, that ran over 300whp from an NA M20 with side draft webbers on 93 octane. I'm trying to build a more street-able, fuel injected version, as building an all out race motor just doesn't work with the idea that the car will be a street car that could be driven around the country without breaking. I can tolerate having to rev the car up to access the power as long as it will cruise on a highway and not run like shit. I don't really mind sacrificing the bottom end of the rev range for more power up top, as long as I can put it in 5th on the highway and cruise 70-80 mph for a couple hundred miles and it not explode.

[Sykohtic]

for something around 296 degrees duration the Z58 ENEM (non turbo version) would be better than the dbilas 296 IMO. its a more modern grind with more lobe time-area for the same duration. valve springs from Eibach are very good but you need to do a bit of research and calculation to work out which p/n. email RHD (rama) he will likely know a good spring set as he uses them for the roller follower cam, you could even buy a spring set with retainers from him

I'll email Rama. The ENEM cams seem to be even more steep than the Schrick cams. They look like a great product, and if I wasn't on a budget that had to encompass suspension upgrades and aesthetic work as well, I'd probably have no problem with the extra cost.

However, are you saying a 296 is a good choice?

[Sykohtic]

http://www.exx.se/techinfo/runners/runners.html

This isn't a bad little tool. I'm not sure whether the target RPM refers to peak hp or peak torque, but I assumed peak torque. Done with 89.6mm stroke and 84mm bore, and 296 degree cam values. Placing the peak around 6500 rpm (which I think is reasonable on a bigger cam considering the stock intake is tuned for around 5500) locates the runner diameter around 42mm (42.83 for 6500 rpm) like I would be using and sets the runner length around 9.5 inches (9.45). *This is assuming the calculator takes into account the proper factors. I know not all these online calculators are done properly*

[digger]

296 is the most id personally use on a street vehicle assuming i had around 3L, ITB, standalone ECU and big valve ported cylinder head, suitable CR and fuel etc, i ended up choosing the RHD 292 which has approx the same lobe area due to having more lift and higher velocity but does so with less duration and slightly wider lobe centres so it should behave more mildly. the 296 cams have significantly more overlap than say a schrick 288 and that hurts you below 2500 rpm especially if your exhaust is not done well and you get lots of reversion

9.5" runner loses midrange torque for little to no befit over something 2" longer so its not a good tradeoff IMO , ive dynoed this and so has Forcedfirebird

[Sykohtic]

296 is the most id personally use on a street vehicle assuming i had around 3L, ITB, standalone ECU and big valve ported cylinder head, suitable CR and fuel etc, i ended up choosing the RHD 292 which has approx the same lobe area due to having more lift and higher velocity but does so with less duration and slightly wider lobe centres so it should behave more mildly. the 296 cams have significantly more overlap than say a schrick 288 and that hurts you below 2500 rpm especially if your exhaust is not done well and you get lots of reversion

9.5" runner loses midrange torque for little to no befit over something 2" longer so its not a good tradeoff IMO , ive dynoed this and so has Forcedfirebird

So there is indeed enough room to have 11" runners as long as the throttles and velocity stacks/airbox are able to clear? My motor isn't currently in my car so I cant measure, but how much space is there between the head and the booster? I guess I could go boosterless and save space, but I also wanna do rx7 brakes and possibly the bigger e34 master cylinder, and I imagine that's gonna be a bitch to drive longer distances.

Would it be a really good investment to port the exhaust +1mm over as well? I've always heard the diameter of the exhaust valves were plenty big for most applications, but the bigger exhaust valves would maybe reduce some reversion. I was gonna leave them alone and just put in new stainless steel ones, but I don't imagine it would cost me much more to port an extra 6 valves, albeit the valve itself is significantly more expensive. I was going to go supertech black nitrite for the intake valves as Korman likes them and they're about 4 bucks cheaper per valve than the Ireland ones, but with exhaust it looks better to go Ireland as they're about $10 cheaper per valve than supertech's oversized. I assume the combo would be fine and that there's nothing wrong with mixing the two in the same head?

Also heard back from Rama concerning the springs. He said to the roller cam springs were way to heavy for a conventional cam, but something around 240lb open and 80-90lb seat was his ballpark estimate. His suggestions were an Australian company he has connections with that will cost me about 150au (about 115 USD) for the springs before shipping, so I assume the price would go up with the retainers and all the hardware, but that's damn good pricing as long as shipping doesn't kill me, which I can't imagine it'd be more than 40 USD, which is still well under the near $300 price on the Schrick stuff even if it doesn't carry the Schrick name. Otherwise he suggested Schrick or catcams, and then if needed start going through manufacturer part catalogues lol

[digger]

So there is indeed enough room to have 11" runners as long as the throttles and velocity stacks/airbox are able to clear? My motor isn't currently in my car so I cant measure, but how much space is there between the head and the booster? I guess I could go boosterless and save space, but I also wanna do rx7 brakes and possibly the bigger e34 master cylinder, and I imagine that's gonna be a bitch to drive longer distances.

Would it be a really good investment to port the exhaust +1mm over as well? I've always heard the diameter of the exhaust valves were plenty big for most applications, but the bigger exhaust valves would maybe reduce some reversion. I was gonna leave them alone and just put in new stainless steel ones, but I don't imagine it would cost me much more to port an extra 6 valves, albeit the valve itself is significantly more expensive. I was going to go supertech black nitrite for the intake valves as Korman likes them and they're about 4 bucks cheaper per valve than the Ireland ones, but with exhaust it looks better to go Ireland as they're about $10 cheaper per valve than supertech's oversized. I assume the combo would be fine and that there's nothing wrong with mixing the two in the same head?

Also heard back from Rama concerning the springs. He said to the roller cam springs were way to heavy for a conventional cam, but something around 240lb open and 80-90lb seat was his ballpark estimate. His suggestions were an Australian company he has connections with that will cost me about 150au (about 115 USD) for the springs before shipping, so I assume the price would go up with the retainers and all the hardware, but that's damn good pricing as long as shipping doesn't kill me, which I can't imagine it'd be more than 40 USD, which is still well under the near $300 price on the Schrick stuff even if it doesn't carry the Schrick name. Otherwise he suggested Schrick or catcams, and then if needed start going through manufacturer part catalogues lol

standard exhaust valve size is fine for NA but the exhaust ports do need work to shape them right especially the short turn, the ST +1 intake valves are nice they come with a backcut

the VAC eibach springs are good though i dont know the actual eibach p/n to bypass the VAC tax, you could run the numbers by looking at the catalogue there is a big list of springs

http://eibach.com/sites/eibach.com.m-america/files/catalogs/evs-catalog.pdf

some data from an old e30tech thread