Yeah i,ve been driving my setup for 3 months. I didn't post any further because of the negative feedback. The brakes work great, yeah you have to push pretty hard but you get used to it. The resevoir is hard to find. I have a spare if you want it. I used a brake reservoir from a motorcycle for my clutch reservoir. I would recommend using a good quality high friction brake pad. It really helps. I did have to shim the master cylinder toward the fender so it's not square to the firewall. I used a heim joint end on me pushrod to keep it straight.
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Screw the haters! You're safe. I'm using the factory master right now. Imagine how much fun it is for me to drive daily :). How's the pedal travel? Theoretically it should be "spongy" but I don't think it should be.
You willing to ship that res? PM me what you want if so!
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!Comment
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Yeah i believe the stock MC is 19mm or 21mm. It would be pretty stiff. Just make sure you move your pushrod up as high as possible on your pedal to get a better ratio. My brakes arent spongy and the travel isn't really that long. What engine are you swapping? Ill send you a PM for the reservoir.Comment
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I got an LS2. I've had a few brake setups. Trying the manual setup for right now. Hydroboost was fun.
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!Comment
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For you guys worried about firewall flexing let me help you understand the mounting of the master cylinder.
This is your pedal bracket. What the bolts through the mounting plate bolt through. The firewall provides no strength at all in this area. It's really thin gauge. So by bolting a adapter plate on the other side of the firewall you are relying on the pedal bracket for strength (as originally designed). The aluminum plate is just an adapter for the master cylinder. The firewall doesn't flex.
For this to fail you would have to generate enough force to separate the pedal bracket from its mounting and tear the firewall. The brake pedal would buckle before that happened.
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You still on this? I did the VW master and just last weekend swapped back to a factory master. Just going manual and shifting the pedal ratio higher was the simple answer. The VW rabbit master made things squishy so I couldn't lock the wheels. I deleted my ABS and replaced the rear prop valve and it's good so far.
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!Comment
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No I wrecked my E30 on a wet mountain road. I sold my swap and it's currently in another E30 coupe using the same brake setup.
What stock MC did you use? Isn't it a 23mm front and 21mm rear? Are you on stock calipers?
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The master I used said 22/17. It was a factory late model master though. So whatever it was. I'm on stock calipers and OEM pads.
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!Comment
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to each his method, 1000+ ways to fold a piece of paper
in mine i used the stock master+booster located in cabin in place of the hvac,
as a support i used a e34 oem pedalbox & a big spring,
i welded the e34 clutch & brake pedal toghether so the box is right in the middle of the tunnel & my linkage just near the edge of the tunnel,
a metal T bar bended correctly is then usedto link both my e30 pedal & the e34 one.
so basically when i brake i push on my pedal,
my linkage pull the e34 clutch pedal & since she's welded to the brake pedal,
the brake pedal is pushing on the booster/master.
oem brakes... tho had to remake lines & put the valve bias in cabin,
but that was no big deal since at the same time i added an e-brake and had to do it anyway.
con;
Code:i still need a remote reservoir to have it in engine bay; because checking levels&filling is a pain in the ass, must use the opening (in engine bay where you access, wipers motor) since now have a propper welder i must redo the thing smaller & as part of transmission tunnel no more plates & cut center console.
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i'm sorry you wrecked it man:/Originally posted by st.petebiodiesel View Poste30Ls1 Swap IG: 1dirty30
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