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How to remove throttle body heater.

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    #16
    Technically you should join the pipes together as you will end up with dead legs in the cooling system, ie areas where the coolant is stagnant and not moving.

    If this stagnant coolant is in the rubber pipes then all you risk is a burst pipe, if the stagnant coolant is in the head or block then perhaps local overheating in that area is a risk with bigger consequences.

    Real world it probably doesn't make any difference on the throttle body heater, but i think youd wanna be careful doing it on the heater hoses. Alot more stagnant coolant there.

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      #17
      Coolant won't go stagnant if they are blocked at the in/outlets, only if a hose has a plug in it.
      john@m20guru.com
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        #18
        Even if you did have stagnant coolant in the hoses ( not that you would do it that way ) I don't see this would have any ill effect there is no heat being input into the hoses . The heat is being put into the combustion chamber and cylinder bore so those are the areas you don't want stagnant coolant.
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #19
          Originally posted by digger View Post
          Even if you did have stagnant coolant in the hoses ( not that you would do it that way ) I don't see this would have any ill effect there is no heat being input into the hoses . The heat is being put into the combustion chamber and cylinder bore so those are the areas you don't want stagnant coolant.
          just looking into this plug/no plug debate. Looks like BMW did have a provision to plug the block, #13 in the diagram. Possibly for warm climate markets. Am I looking at this correctly?


          https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0117


          Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2022-02-16 at 6.53.39 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	152.0 KB ID:	10046574

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            #20
            Originally posted by zaq123 View Post

            just looking into this plug/no plug debate. Looks like BMW did have a provision to plug the block, #13 in the diagram. Possibly for warm climate markets. Am I looking at this correctly?


            https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0117


            Click image for larger version Name:	Screen Shot 2022-02-16 at 6.53.39 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	152.0 KB ID:	10046574
            thats what i have to block it. You need something different on the T-stat housing side though. I drill and tapped and added a small plug. you could add a rubber cap, though most most ones i saw looked cheap/junky
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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              #21
              Originally posted by digger View Post

              thats what i have to block it. You need something different on the T-stat housing side though. I drill and tapped and added a small plug. you could add a rubber cap, though most most ones i saw looked cheap/junky
              I did the same: drill/tap.... probably cuz you told me that 2 years ago lol. I built my 2.9 stroker almost 2 years ago. Had a break from the project, finally just painted the shell and putting it all back together and honestly looks like I forgot half of what I learned. Revisiting all I did at that time and questioning myself why I did it :) Thanks for still hanging on the board digger.
              Can you offer any insight on this one? https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...need-your-help
              Last edited by zaq123; 02-17-2022, 04:42 AM.

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