Dead Clutch Pedal After Replacing Master & Slave

[gespinal0301]

Hey guys,

about 6 months ago I replaced my clutch master & slave until one day when my clutch travel completely changed. I decided to order new ones to avoid a possible breakdown. Anyways, I just installed them and I reverse bled the system then gravity bled them to make sure there was no air in the system. The pedal had good pressure when I was bleeding it, but as soon as I turned the car on to drive the pedal sank straight to the floor.

It basically has no pressure until I'm about an inch away from the firewall and even there I barely feel anything, I checked the master to see if it was leaking and it isn't. I couldn't get under the car, but I didnt see any leaks there either.

I'm thinking maybe the slave isn't hitting the fork, but how would that affect the pressure in the pedal??? Anyone have any ideas?

[jlevie]

Did you use OE or equal parts? The quality of the parts matters (you get what you pay for).

My suspicion is that the new master cylinder has an internal leak.

[gespinal0301]

Did you use OE or equal parts? The quality of the parts matters (you get what you pay for).

My suspicion is that the new master cylinder has an internal leak.

Both are FTE, which is the OEM supplier. It's pouring here in Florida so I can't get under the car to check for leaks or anything

[jlevie]

If there was an external leak, I doubt that you'd feel any resistance in the pedal throughout it's travel. But if the master has an internal leak you might feel some resistance near the bottom of the stroke.

The only other possibility would be air in the system. But it sounds like you bled it properly. The clutch will self bleed and you can do that by grabbing the pedal and pumping it 50 or more times, or until it gets hard.

[RobDog]

Check your clutch/brake pedal assembly and make sure it is not cracked. I had replaced everything once and still had 1 inch of travel at the very bottom on the clutch pedal. Turned out that I had a cracked pedal assembly and the clutch master was binding because the pedal assembly would bend when pushing in the pedal.

[gespinal0301]

If there was an external leak, I doubt that you'd feel any resistance in the pedal throughout it's travel. But if the master has an internal leak you might feel some resistance near the bottom of the stroke.

The only other possibility would be air in the system. But it sounds like you bled it properly. The clutch will self bleed and you can do that by grabbing the pedal and pumping it 50 or more times, or until it gets hard.

I just sent my old one in cause I thought it had an internal leak since the travel changed when I went to shift lol good thing pelican parts has a good return policy haha

Check your clutch/brake pedal assembly and make sure it is not cracked. I had replaced everything once and still had 1 inch of travel at the very bottom on the clutch pedal. Turned out that I had a cracked pedal assembly and the clutch master was binding because the pedal assembly would bend when pushing in the pedal.

I didnt notice anything when I was under the dash, then again I wasnt looking out for something like that. If it isnt pouring tomorrow Ill check once I get back from work and Ill update you guys

[gespinal0301]

Sent a return request to pelican hopefully it gets to me soon, also checked to see if the assembly was cracked but everything is all good

[Peelsbimmer]

Did you find your problem?

[gespinal0301]

Did you find your problem?

I ended up replacing both again lol. Not sure which it was, but it works now