If you know the Hartge Type A wheels, you know that the center caps are a weak point. The four tabs holding the spring clips are made of plastic and we all know that plastic sucks after 20-30 years.
So when I got these wheels, I decided to run with the caps on until I could figure out a method to secure them. Unfortunately, I lost a cap before I got the urge to do this. So I removed the remaining caps until I figured something out.
Fortunately I was able to find a cap (thanks AC Nico!) but it was missing an emblem. I was able to get some replica emblems (thanks gforce323i!). The pictures you see below are of these two pieces on my wheel.
First off -- the Bill of Material. All items were found from McMaster-Carr
THIS IS PER WHEEL
(2 each) Aluminum Hex, 5/16”-18 tread, 1” length, fully threaded
(4 each) Aluminum Flat Washer, 5/16” screw, 7/8” OD
(2 each) Aluminum Nylon-insert Hex Locknut, 5/16”-18 thread, 1/2" width, 11/32” height
(2 each) Zinc Plated Flat Head socket cap, 4-40 thread, 3/8” length
These two items were bought for tapping the hole in the bolt and for making the counter-sink in the cap.
HSS Spiral Flute tap, bottoming, 4-40, H2 Pitch diameter, 2 flute
Countersink, 3 flute, 82 degree angle, 1/4" body and shank diameter
Those of you that know metal know that stainless steel and aluminium do not mix. It will cause high amounts of oxidation. If you go to the hardware store, this will be mostly what you see. This is why I used aluminum parts for the most part. The flat head hex head screw did not come in aluminum, but zinc plated steel does well with aluminum. If you've never worked with aluminium hardware, you'll be surprised at the way it feels.
You can figure out what I did from the pictures. The biggest part is lining up the bolt that goes through the wheel with the screw that will go through the cap. I did this by putting the bolt in (with the hole tapped and drilled already) and threading the cap screw all the way in. I put a fair amount of oil (Mobil 1 -- haha) on the head of the screw and putting the cap on carefully and removing it carefully and drilling the hole in the middle of the oil spot. It has worked well so far, but you've got to be careful.
I just plan on keeping the hex head in my tool-kit so the screws can be removed. I also plan on using blue locktite on the screws since you can't bottom them without warping the center cap.
On to the pictures.
EDIT: After running with these, one more step needs to be added (that I did). You need to use an epoxy or similar on the back side of the caps and spread it around the holes that were drilled. If you don't do this, the plastic will start chipping away and eventually crack the cap. I did the epoxy and they are holding up just find (after one cracked that didn't have the epoxy).
So when I got these wheels, I decided to run with the caps on until I could figure out a method to secure them. Unfortunately, I lost a cap before I got the urge to do this. So I removed the remaining caps until I figured something out.
Fortunately I was able to find a cap (thanks AC Nico!) but it was missing an emblem. I was able to get some replica emblems (thanks gforce323i!). The pictures you see below are of these two pieces on my wheel.
First off -- the Bill of Material. All items were found from McMaster-Carr
THIS IS PER WHEEL
(2 each) Aluminum Hex, 5/16”-18 tread, 1” length, fully threaded
(4 each) Aluminum Flat Washer, 5/16” screw, 7/8” OD
(2 each) Aluminum Nylon-insert Hex Locknut, 5/16”-18 thread, 1/2" width, 11/32” height
(2 each) Zinc Plated Flat Head socket cap, 4-40 thread, 3/8” length
These two items were bought for tapping the hole in the bolt and for making the counter-sink in the cap.
HSS Spiral Flute tap, bottoming, 4-40, H2 Pitch diameter, 2 flute
Countersink, 3 flute, 82 degree angle, 1/4" body and shank diameter
Those of you that know metal know that stainless steel and aluminium do not mix. It will cause high amounts of oxidation. If you go to the hardware store, this will be mostly what you see. This is why I used aluminum parts for the most part. The flat head hex head screw did not come in aluminum, but zinc plated steel does well with aluminum. If you've never worked with aluminium hardware, you'll be surprised at the way it feels.
You can figure out what I did from the pictures. The biggest part is lining up the bolt that goes through the wheel with the screw that will go through the cap. I did this by putting the bolt in (with the hole tapped and drilled already) and threading the cap screw all the way in. I put a fair amount of oil (Mobil 1 -- haha) on the head of the screw and putting the cap on carefully and removing it carefully and drilling the hole in the middle of the oil spot. It has worked well so far, but you've got to be careful.
I just plan on keeping the hex head in my tool-kit so the screws can be removed. I also plan on using blue locktite on the screws since you can't bottom them without warping the center cap.
On to the pictures.
EDIT: After running with these, one more step needs to be added (that I did). You need to use an epoxy or similar on the back side of the caps and spread it around the holes that were drilled. If you don't do this, the plastic will start chipping away and eventually crack the cap. I did the epoxy and they are holding up just find (after one cracked that didn't have the epoxy).
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