Wiring Identification (PICS) (1987 325es)

[alex.eslinger]

Background: I picked up this E30 for pretty cheap and i was going through it removing an old car alarm system. Little did i know i would find all kinds of cut wires/wires spliced in randomly/and a few strays. I took pictures and labeled them to see if you guys here could help me identify them. I know some of you have done dash swaps etc and any one of you can go out and pop your hood to find this wiring so please help me out. If you need any clarification please let me know.



^^Pic was taken behind the drivers side headlights (shroud removed)



^^Opposite view to help give an idea



^^This wiring comes from under the dash out to the engine bay... i found out it isnt connected to anything...



^^Took this relay system from under the drivers side front speaker, two wires were spliced into this system and i have no idea what the "system" is a relay and module to



^^Taken from drivers door area, lime green wire was spliced into, black with yellow tracer was all re-routed to alarm connector... (connectors are attached to the top steering column behind the steering wheel)



^^For reference to the last picture...



^^This is where the black wire with the yellow tracer used to connect to (factory connecting point)


Thanks for any help you guys could give me, I'm really working on getting this car running but it has some kind of issue where it gets fuel all the way up to the fuel rail but will not start without starter fluid... it has an issue with fuse 11 (yes i've done a search) and i've already replaced the fusible link/fuel pump/checked the battery junction block/and relays themselves. I assume its got to be a ECU issue since the ECU controls the relays (no power to fuel pump relay) and the fuel injectors (engine isn't getting fuel). Any help on this will be appreciated as well, but i've already ordered an ECU so hopefully once the wiring is cleaned up and the ECU is good to go this thing will start and i can have a car again...

-Alex

[spdracrm3]

Etm

start here and download the apropriate electronic troubleshooter manual for year/model

http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

it all seems related to having an alarm that disables ignition sys and connects to central locking (the relay/module is the central locking controller) possibly had keyless entry system in alarm? wires up front are maybe to the horns (alarm again) i dont recognise the wires near brake mastercyl you will need to trace wire colors maybe (the twin connector plug is one used by several components) so doesn't help identify (windscreen washer pump is one that comes to mind). wires near column are again prolly related to alarm ignition disable ,your best friend is going to be the wiring troubleshooter manual , you have a challenge there hope this helps a bit

[330SMG]

Somebody botched up the 13 button wiring for you, the plug near the master cylinder is for an alarm bell.
When you download the troubleshooting guide look up onboard computer.
The thing behind the kick panel is your central locking relay.

[alex.eslinger]

i appreciate the help so far but i'm not finding a whole lot out yet.... C126 looks like the connector thats double circled in orange on the second picture i believe... after skimming i havent found what connector C126 actually goes to... i need more help... =^(

[DJB]

BMW uses standardized color coding for many circuits. Make certain that the pictures show the wire colors as well as the connectors.

Black/yellow wires are for the starter circuit. The thick one (2.5mm^2 -- a relatively thick wire) is from the ignition switch to the starter. It was likely wired to a relay used for either a remote start or for preventing starting.

[alex.eslinger]

I will go out today and get all the wires and edit the post. I appreciate the help thus far. Information will be updated today.

[alex.eslinger]

Update

Thanks for any help you guys could give me, I'm really working on getting this car running but it has some kind of issue where it gets fuel all the way up to the fuel rail but will not start without starter fluid... it has an issue with fuse 11 (yes i've done a search) and i've already replaced the fusible link/fuel pump/checked the battery junction block/and relays themselves. I assume its got to be a ECU issue since the ECU controls the relays (no power to fuel pump relay) and the fuel injectors (engine isn't getting fuel). Any help on this will be appreciated as well, but i've already ordered an ECU so hopefully once the wiring is cleaned up and the ECU is good to go this thing will start and i can have a car again...

-Alex

I apologize for the fail on updating... the newest update is kinda weird. I installed the known-good ECU and sadly its still the same. Strangely when i crank without pushing in the clutch it cranks pretty fast (normal, still no start condition present).... when i push the clutch in and try to start it it sounds like it cranks over half way and just stops.... if anyone can enlighten me on that you can also obviously explain things that defy all conventional wisdom...All I know is fuse 11 doesnt get power from the fuel pump relay, the relay isnt functional and when i jump fuse 11 and can hear (and even see) fuel coming out the car will not start. If I spray starter fluid up the intake boot, however, I can start it and keep it running as long as I keep spraying.
What that tells me is:

1.) Crank sensor?
2.) Clogged fuel rail?
3.) Bad wiring to ECU (clutch pedal position sensor)
4.) HAS TO BE A FUEL ISSUE but I have visual confirmation that it gets to the T at the fuel rail
5.) 6 Completely clogged injectors/unplugged wiring to injectors
6.) FPR?
7.) A complete blockage of intake air?

What I know it isnt:

1.) Fuel Pump (replaced new)
2.) Fuel Filter (replaced new)
3.) ECU (replaced; known good)
4.) Fusible Link (replaced; new; blade-type in-line fuse)
5.) Battery Junction block (checked good)
6.) Ignition System (checked good when started with starter fluid)

This was just some brain-storming I did, if there is anything that my story can prove good or something that you think i should check PLEASE LMK!! I'm seriously running out of ideas and I really want to get this car running...THANKS IN ADVANCE.
-Alex

[alex.eslinger]

kind of a shot in the dark...i had light bulb moment and was wondering (after searching for about an hour) is it possible that with all this alarm system nonsense and everything else that i have a key that isnt coded? i ask because i have a very plain metal key that was given to me when i bought the car but in my g.f.'s honda her car wouldnt start with her spare key (which wasnt coded). It would crank until the battery went dead but would not start at all.... Is this a possibility?!!?

Again... Thanks in advance....

-Alex

[wodcutr]

E30's do not have coded keys. Have you checked to see if your main relay is functioning as it should? That supplies power to the ECU and the fuel pump relay.

Also, I recieved a random email from you about wiggling wires refferring to a thread on here, but I have no idea what you are talking about. Maybe a message was supposed to go to another member!

[barry]

Follow the gas lines, undo them and see if you have flow all the way to the injector bar.
If it starts with e-ther it must need gas? Check all vacuum lines and clamps. Bad distributor and rotor will cause it to hard start.
Check plugs & plug harness..
Process of elimination.
Good luck
Barry

[alex.eslinger]

Ok

Frustrated today, i jumped the 87 pins from the Fuel pump relay and the 87 pin on the Main relay... this was the first time i actually had any kind of change in the way it starts...

Here's what it does now: starts up to about 1500 rpm and then dies out. There is no effect with the gas pedal it literally starts and dies and then itll crank for a little while and then a few times later it will start up go to about 1500 rpm and die again. I thought it was out of gas but i put a fresh gallon in it and no change.

This is what i think is happening.... the cold start injector is going correctly and will sometimes be enough fuel in the intake to start it up but the fuel injectors must not be firing... the reason i think this is because i can see fuel leaking out into the intake elbow... whats the fastest way to check to see if the injectors are working properly? Has anyone seen this kind of problem before?? Does anyone else have any suggestions based on previous posts along with this one??

[alex.eslinger]

Update:

Borrowed NOID light from O'reilly's and plugged into the fuel injector harness, started up and jumped out in time to see it flashing and die....so fuel injectors are firing! AGH!!

Installed brand new main relay, didn't even try to see if removing the jumper would change anything... by the way any one looking for a replacement main relay can use a Borg Warner R3011... it took me and a parts guy a few hours to figure this out... it has the correct diode and matching wiring diag on the side... i spent 30 mins searching at home for another PN other than the one on the top of the relay i figured i would help others out that have the same problem...

unplugged the cold start injector and as i thought, it cranks and cranks but no start (with it plugged in it cranks and fires up to about 1500 rpm and then dies)

took off entire intake system all the way up to the throttle body, (ordered a new elbow yesterday) and it will still start up the exact same way, 1500 RPM and death. Then i cracked the TB open and about a cap-ful of fuel came out of the throttle body....

Oh and back before i tried all of this i crimped the FPR return line off and started it up. Again, no change....

Now with all this new information can anyone help?? Remember, this whole thing started when i started the car and kept it running with the starting fluid which told me this was a fuel issue. Refer to previous posts to see what has already been replaced/tried.

The only thing i can still blame is the FPR.... Thoughts?

[alex.eslinger]

New update: 38-39psi at the fuel rail....

I have no idea why my car wont start/run...

[alex.eslinger]

bump on a thursday night... still have nothing....at least i got to see gabriel iglesias tonight...(im not fat i'm fluffy guy...) please help i have 2 weekends before i have to either have the car running or sold...

[hotballs]

Could be... bad AFM, coolant temp sensor, TPS, or CPS.

I'm not sure about the 87, but my early eta had two crank sensors in the bell housing. Make sure those are present and plugged in.

Sounds like you're getting fuel....you have spark right...