weird idle and temp problem

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  • mrgetbig50
    Member
    • Feb 2010
    • 92

    #1

    weird idle and temp problem

    so i finally got the car running because the wrong afm was on there. when i started it i noticed it was idling ridiculously high. after i adjusted the throttle cables and backed up off the idle stop screw it now idles CONSISTENTLY at 1100...so i took it for a drive and noticed it runs hot when sitting there..like it will creep up toward 3/4 of the way but when im moving it will go down to either half or just a hair over half...

    i sprayed some carb cleaner around where vacuum leaks would be and nothing was found.

    i bled the cooling system as good as i could and still does the same thing


    could the dme be throwing out weird fuel maps causing it to run lean? that could explain the temp and idle problem

    plz any help is appreciated...cuz once again i feel like this..:hitler:
  • mrgetbig50
    Member
    • Feb 2010
    • 92

    #2
    o the engine is a m20 stroker...eta block with the 2.5 head...everything on the head is late model stuff..cooling system is the same from a 86 325es

    dme is a 173 with a turbonoz ebay chip.....was running fine before installed in this car

    Comment

    • jlevie
      R3V OG
      • Nov 2006
      • 13530

      #3
      Running hot at idle is most commonly the result of a failed fan clutch.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment

      • mrgetbig50
        Member
        • Feb 2010
        • 92

        #4
        would that also lead to a slightly higher idle speed?

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          The fan clutch would have nothing to do with the idle speed. High idle is most commonly associated with intake leaks, but a bad idle switch in the TPS, a bad ICV, or a mis-adjusted throttle or TPS are possibilities.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • mrgetbig50
            Member
            • Feb 2010
            • 92

            #6
            Is there any way to test the tps and how would I go aboutadjusting the throttle body?

            Comment

            • jlevie
              R3V OG
              • Nov 2006
              • 13530

              #7
              You can use an ohmmeter to check the switches (idle & WOT) in the TPS. If either switch is bad the TPS must be replaced.

              Correct adjustment of the throttle & TPS is done by:

              1) Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature
              2) Disconnect the ICV and adjust the throttle stop screw for an idle of 950rpm
              3) Adjust the TPS so that the idle switch closes when the throttle arm is 0.030-0.060" off the stop screw
              4) Reconnect the ICV and the idle should stabilize at 750rpm

              Before doing the adjustment make sure the TPS is good, that there are no intake leaks by having a smoke test run, and make sure the ICV is clean and it's vane moves freely. If after adjusting the throttle and TPS if the ICV doesn't buzz when the ignition is switched on, the ICV is bad, there's a wiring fault in the harness, or the DME is bad.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

              • mrgetbig50
                Member
                • Feb 2010
                • 92

                #8
                Ive also tried unplugging the icv and when I did nothing changed. What voltage should I be reading at the connector to the icv?

                Comment

                • jlevie
                  R3V OG
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 13530

                  #9
                  Originally posted by mrgetbig50
                  Ive also tried unplugging the icv and when I did nothing changed.
                  That suggests that the ICV is bad, the TPS is bad or mis-adjusted, there's a wiring fault between the DME and ICV, or the DME is bad.

                  The first step is to check the TPS and possibly adjust it. Once you know that the DME sees the idle switch closing if the ICV doesn't vibrate with the ignition on, ohm out the ICV wires from the DME to the ICV. If they are good, swap in a known good ICV. If that doesn't help swap in a known good DME.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                  Comment

                  • hurttech
                    Wrencher
                    • Apr 2010
                    • 237

                    #10
                    Another quote from Jlevie.

                    Originally posted by jlevie
                    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires

                    that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an

                    in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the

                    main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and

                    DME.


                    I'm fairly certain you have it hooked up right as the car more than likely wouldnt run at all.

                    Comment

                    • mrgetbig50
                      Member
                      • Feb 2010
                      • 92

                      #11
                      Hey jlevie is here a certain chip or a tune that is necessary to make a engine like this stroker build run smoothly? Hurttech and I did the tps checks everything seemed to check out fine

                      Comment

                      • rjfurlan
                        Noobie
                        • Jul 2011
                        • 15

                        #12
                        Originally posted by jlevie

                        Correct adjustment of the throttle & TPS is done by:

                        1) Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature
                        2) Disconnect the ICV and adjust the throttle stop screw for an idle of 950rpm
                        3) Adjust the TPS so that the idle switch closes when the throttle arm is 0.030-0.060" off the stop screw
                        4) Reconnect the ICV and the idle should stabilize at 750rpm
                        Nice instructions, but how do you get in there to loosen up the tps screws without taking off the throttle body?

                        Comment

                        • mrgetbig50
                          Member
                          • Feb 2010
                          • 92

                          #13
                          Originally posted by rjfurlan
                          Nice instructions, but how do you get in there to loosen up the tps screws without taking off the throttle body?
                          i think he means adjust it till it reads continuity at the given measurement...the pins that you read it at is in the bently manual

                          to get to it just remove the intake boot with those vac hoses just to make life easy

                          Comment

                          • mrgetbig50
                            Member
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 92

                            #14
                            just plugged in a baum scanner and it spit out a dme code........ugh

                            Comment

                            • appelbaum
                              Noobie
                              • Aug 2014
                              • 1

                              #15
                              Was there every a solution for this?

                              Comment

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