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Speedo and Econometer Working Intermittently

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    Speedo and Econometer Working Intermittently

    This problem has been around for a few months now, but seems to be getting worse. Especially on damp, humid days. As I'm driving along, the speedo and econometer will both die. If I hit the top of the dash hard enough, they come back to life. Sometimes. Of course, the odometer stops working at these times too.

    Because I can hit the dash and bring them back to life, I figure that the sensor in the rear diff is not the issue. It must be something in the cluster.

    I had the cluster apart a month ago to replace the odometer gears and nothing looked amiss. This problem did exist before I took the cluster apart.

    Also, my SI lights work exactly as they should.

    Please offer any help you can. Thanks!
    '89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 Black

    #2
    Sorry I cannot offer any help, but I am, having the same problem...so if you find anything out please let me know :)

    1987 325 | @e30_hunter |

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      #3
      take out the cluster, tighten the 2 small brass nuts that are on the back (there should only be 2 brass ones), these are grounds and cause erratic speedo/guage behavior when loose.

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        #4
        Given the symptoms I'd suspect a bad connection someplace in the cluster. Possibly a cracked solder joint. The only thing common between the econometer and speedometer is the main PCB in the cluster and that is where I'd look.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          Originally posted by JRYE30 View Post
          Sorry I cannot offer any help, but I am, having the same problem...so if you find anything out please let me know :)
          same here
          sigpic
          Reich und Roll!

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            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            Given the symptoms I'd suspect a bad connection someplace in the cluster. Possibly a cracked solder joint. The only thing common between the econometer and speedometer is the main PCB in the cluster and that is where I'd look.
            PCB being printed circuit board? That's the one that the two NI-CAD batteries are glued to correct? Will a cracked solder joint be noticeable upon careful inspection or am I searching for a needle in a haystack? Thanks!
            '89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 Black

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              #7
              The PCB that has the batteries on it is the SI board. There is a large PCB that all of the instruments and the SI board attach to. That board is the one I am referring to. Disassemble the cluster and examine every solder joint with a magnifying glass. If you find any cracked joints reflow solder on them.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #8
                Will do, thanks.
                '89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 Black

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                  #9
                  I had a problem with my speedometer intermittently cutting out. It turned out to be caused by a cracked solder joint inside the instrument cluster.

                  See this previous post for more photos and description... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...5&postcount=26



                  Cracked solder joints can be difficult to spot with the naked eye alone. Here's a better photo of a similar failed solder joint that I found and fixed recently in my overhead check panel display. See this thread for description: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=219465

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                    #10
                    By the way, in case you never tried it before, removing and disassembling the instrument cluster is a relatively simple job. See the first page of this link for instructions: http://home.comcast.net/~cdeegan9/da...shboard_1.html

                    Once the cluster is out, it can be opened up from the backside by removing the nine brass screws around the perimeter of the casing, including the one right in the middle.

                    Also, if you have cruise control, there will be a green connector plug (not shown in this image) plugged into the bottom of the speedometer. You can see the rectangular slot for it below the speedo in this photo, right below the paper BMW part# sticker. You have to unclip and remove that green connector before you can get the back cover off the instrument cluster.



                    The green connector looks like this.

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