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    Overheating plz help I need this fixed asap

    New waterpump, t-stat, radiator and hoses and this car is still overheating at an idle when I drive it its fine. Sry leme back up a minute its a 1991 325i rebuilt motor with a 5 speed swap and the car runs an drives awesome.. Just overheats at an idle. The car originally was giving all the signs of vaporlock. Radiator hoses ballooning, cold side and warm side of the radiator and radiator was actually expanding and ruined it so got a new radiator and water pump along with a t-stat. And car is doing the same thing again... Someone plz help me this is my girlfriends daily and I need this car running asap!

    #2
    The ballooning of the hoses sounds like excessive pressure in the cooling system, which could be from a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. It also sounds like the fan clutch may be bad.

    With the engine and radiator at operating temperature drag a rolled up newspaper against the fan blade tips. A good clutch will shred the newspaper before you can stop the fan.

    A simple check for a head gasket leak is to fully bleed the cooling system (procedure below), drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and rebleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket failure. Another clue would be hard radiator hoses after the car has completely clooled down.

    1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
    the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
    on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

    2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
    the bleed.

    3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
    temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
    in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
    up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
    warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
    up the coolant as necessary.

    4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
    several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
    this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
    indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
    repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

    5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
    bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
    few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment


      #3
      +1 on the fan clutch and bleeding the system. Bleeding is free and easy, fan clutch is cheap and easy.
      90 325i DD/Track
      03 Durango 5.9


      Originally posted by e30mpg
      It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

      Comment


        #4
        I am having some overheating problems as well. I just replaced: the radiator, two radiator hoses, a head gasket, the water pump and the thermostat. I tried the bentley method for bleeding the system, however, it doesn't work. For some reason only the hose that goes from the t-stat housing to the water pump gets hot. Is my t-stat stuck?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 325ix View Post
          I am having some overheating problems as well. I just replaced: the radiator, two radiator hoses, a head gasket, the water pump and the thermostat. I tried the bentley method for bleeding the system, however, it doesn't work. For some reason only the hose that goes from the t-stat housing to the water pump gets hot. Is my t-stat stuck?
          Try the bleed procedure above. If the car still tries to run hot and the radiator never gets hot, replace the thermostat.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Hmmm, alright. I am just stumped because all the parts are new, including the thermostat.

            Comment


              #7
              Even new parts can be bad. And it is possible to install the thermostat backwards. The end of the thermostat that has the "can" and spring faces the engine.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                I know that the t-stat is in correctly, I checked that and the little arrow is pointing up. I will try bleeding it with the method you stated and see what happens. It may just be a big air bubble keeping it from opening.

                Comment


                  #9
                  incorrect ignition timing and A/F ratio can cause an engine to run hotter than normal.
                  Dave @ Bimmerbuddies
                  Contact Bimmerbuddies for all your Parts and service needs
                  M20,24V,5spdSwap,Weld,Fab,Tow,Buy/Sell/Trade
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                  717-388-1256
                  2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057

                  *Ask about discounts for R3V members*

                  Comment


                    #10
                    my engine was the same way when i got it. water pump went out and after replacing lifting the front end on ramps didnt bleed it worth shit.. i found a nice little trick though
                    what did finally work for me and has worked everytime i bleed my car
                    buy a 7 doller oil pump from the autoparts store or walmart the type that looks like a ketchup dispenser from a fast food place,
                    stick it on your bottle of coolant and pump it a few times to prime
                    dissconnect the small hose coming from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank
                    and hook that hose to the pump and pump away first with the bleed screw cracked open on the thermo housing the close screw and pump until it fills your resivar
                    then when the tank is full i usually stick the bottom of the pump into the expansian tank
                    and pump for a few more mins to force any left over air in the system out, without overflowing the coolant

                    hope this helps! its worked for me everytime when nothing else would

                    Comment


                      #11
                      unhook the side going to the tank and pump straight into the radiator

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I would like to jump in on this thread. I am battling heat issues as well. When bleeding via the bleed screw on the thermostat housing, some times when I open it nothing comes out, other times coolant comes out. And other times still, it is obvious that air is coming out because there are obvious bubbles. Shouldn’t something always come out? Or is the lack of anything coming out a sign that there is an extremely large amount of air in the system?

                        Thanks.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by C!ph3r View Post
                          I would like to jump in on this thread. I am battling heat issues as well. When bleeding via the bleed screw on the thermostat housing, some times when I open it nothing comes out, other times coolant comes out. And other times still, it is obvious that air is coming out because there are obvious bubbles. Shouldn’t something always come out? Or is the lack of anything coming out a sign that there is an extremely large amount of air in the system?

                          Thanks.
                          With the bleed screw open, something should always come out. You can rev the engine to speed up the water pump making it easier to hear if you have a large amount of air coming out of the bleed hole.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            cool thank. i will give it a couple more tries when the engine cools. If a water pump was bad, would be completely bad? what i mean is after it idles a while the temp gauge goes over 1/2. but i can rev the engine to about 1500 and watch the temp gauge go down while i am revving up the engine.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by C!ph3r View Post
                              cool thank. i will give it a couple more tries when the engine cools. If a water pump was bad, would be completely bad? what i mean is after it idles a while the temp gauge goes over 1/2. but i can rev the engine to about 1500 and watch the temp gauge go down while i am revving up the engine.
                              Since the temperature goes back down when you increase engine speed, the pump is working. Running hot at idle is likely to be air in the system and/or a bad fan clutch.

                              And use the bleed procedure posted above.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                              Comment

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