m52 cfont crank seal good idea?

frankie591 · 04-12-2012, 12:53 PM

Should I replace the front crankshaft seal on my m52 while its on the stand, or am I opening a can of worms? I don't know the history of the motor, the timing cover looks fairly clean so I assume the seal isn't leaking much if at all. I bought the seal along with a bunch of other stuff, but after reading what is required to change it, I'm having second thoughts and think I might just skip installing it unless I have a problem.

Thoughts?

reelizmpro · 04-12-2012, 01:15 PM

Hmmm probably not unless you are doing other things to the engine. Do you know the mileage? It's a peace of mind kind of thing.

frankie591 · 04-12-2012, 01:46 PM

I'm doing most seals on the motor, water pump, tstat, vc and oil pan gasket. I was told the motor has 100k, with a rebuild at 50k, and judging by the shape of the head and bottom end I believe that mileage is fairly accurate.

reelizmpro · 04-12-2012, 01:56 PM

If it was rebuilt, chances are they changed the front seal as the cover has to be removed and you said that the area is clean and doesn't seem to be leaking. I wouldn't worry about it in that case.

Adrian_Visser · 04-13-2012, 10:12 AM

Murphy's law says it will start leaking one month after you get the car on the road. Remember the crank nut is torqued to 300ft lbs, you need to hold the crank from spinning somehow. Either by using the holding tool attached to the stock flywheel or if you are using an aftermarket flywheel by putting a 2x4 between the block and a crank throw with the oil pan off or making a tool to connect to the harmonic balancer bolts.

jrdeamicis · 04-13-2012, 10:14 AM

The front main seal. HELL YES you should replace it. Its not hard, just crack the crank bolt, 3 jaw puller the flange off.

MANDATORY

Front main seal
Rear main seal
Oil Pan
Head Gasket
Intake
Exhaust
Oil Filter housing

Wait... I am just listing the gasket set. Replace everything because i promise you, nothing is worse than having a brand new engine leak.

bimmerteck · 04-13-2012, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrdeamicis

nothing is worse than having a brand new engine leak.

QFT

It will never be easier to replace ALL the gaskets on that motor than when it's on the stand, don't forget the gasket for the heater hose flange on the back of the head, the rear main seal housing gasket, and the timing cover gaskets.

7pilot · 04-13-2012, 10:31 AM

If you are going to use a synthetic oil...Change it.

m

frankie591 · 04-13-2012, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adrian_Visser

Murphy's law says it will start leaking one month after you get the car on the road. Remember the crank nut is torqued to 300ft lbs, you need to hold the crank from spinning somehow. Either by using the holding tool attached to the stock flywheel or if you are using an aftermarket flywheel by putting a 2x4 between the block and a crank throw with the oil pan off or making a tool to connect to the harmonic balancer bolts.

Would a 4x4 wood block wedged between the crank counterweights and the block cause any damage to the crank or the block?

jrdeamicis · 04-13-2012, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankie591

Would a 4x4 wood block wedged between the crank counterweights and the block cause any damage to the crank or the block?

Nope, I use a wedge all the time to stop the crank from rotation so I could crack the bolt.

328ijunkie · 04-14-2012, 08:57 AM

Big impact gun

jrdeamicis · 04-14-2012, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 328ijunkie

Big impact gun

BIG. Most people don't have access to an impact that large.

howelll · 04-15-2012, 06:27 AM

I used my 5 ft jack handle over my 1/2 in drive rachet to pull it off, then unbolted the lower timing cover and pressed out the seal from the back side.

Adrian_Visser · 04-15-2012, 05:25 PM

3/4" dr breaker bar ftw

04-12-2012, 12:53 PM	#1
frankie591 E30 Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 413	m52 cfont crank seal good idea? Should I replace the front crankshaft seal on my m52 while its on the stand, or am I opening a can of worms? I don't know the history of the motor, the timing cover looks fairly clean so I assume the seal isn't leaking much if at all. I bought the seal along with a bunch of other stuff, but after reading what is required to change it, I'm having second thoughts and think I might just skip installing it unless I have a problem. Thoughts?

04-12-2012, 01:15 PM	#2
reelizmpro R3V Elite Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: LA-SoCal Posts: 5,296	Hmmm probably not unless you are doing other things to the engine. Do you know the mileage? It's a peace of mind kind of thing. __________________ "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj 88 M3 - Lachssilber/black 89 M3 - Alpineweiss II/black 91 M Technic Turbo - Macaoblau 98 528i Sport

04-12-2012, 01:56 PM	#4
reelizmpro R3V Elite Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: LA-SoCal Posts: 5,296	If it was rebuilt, chances are they changed the front seal as the cover has to be removed and you said that the area is clean and doesn't seem to be leaking. I wouldn't worry about it in that case. __________________ "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj 88 M3 - Lachssilber/black 89 M3 - Alpineweiss II/black 91 M Technic Turbo - Macaoblau 98 528i Sport

04-13-2012, 10:12 AM	#5
Adrian_Visser R3VLimited Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Kelowna, BC- CehNehdeh Posts: 2,798	Murphy's law says it will start leaking one month after you get the car on the road. Remember the crank nut is torqued to 300ft lbs, you need to hold the crank from spinning somehow. Either by using the holding tool attached to the stock flywheel or if you are using an aftermarket flywheel by putting a 2x4 between the block and a crank throw with the oil pan off or making a tool to connect to the harmonic balancer bolts. __________________ '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

04-13-2012, 10:14 AM	#6
jrdeamicis E30 Modder Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Berkeley CA Posts: 958	The front main seal. HELL YES you should replace it. Its not hard, just crack the crank bolt, 3 jaw puller the flange off. MANDATORY Front main seal Rear main seal Oil Pan Head Gasket Intake Exhaust Oil Filter housing Wait... I am just listing the gasket set. Replace everything because i promise you, nothing is worse than having a brand new engine leak. __________________ Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73 Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff ___________________________________________ BNB Designs Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair Richmond CA Julian 848-248-8029

04-12-2012, 01:46 PM	#3
frankie591 E30 Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 413	I'm doing most seals on the motor, water pump, tstat, vc and oil pan gasket. I was told the motor has 100k, with a rebuild at 50k, and judging by the shape of the head and bottom end I believe that mileage is fairly accurate.

04-13-2012, 10:31 AM	#8
7pilot E30 Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Here/ Kepler-22 Posts: 428	If you are going to use a synthetic oil...Change it. m

04-14-2012, 08:57 AM	#11
328ijunkie R3VLimited Join Date: May 2007 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 2,888	Big impact gun __________________ Check Us out on Facebook Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts! Full Product Line OBD1, OBD2 24v as well as S54 Swap Tuning and harness modifications now available!

04-15-2012, 06:27 AM	#13
howelll Advanced Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Houston Posts: 166	I used my 5 ft jack handle over my 1/2 in drive rachet to pull it off, then unbolted the lower timing cover and pressed out the seal from the back side.

04-15-2012, 05:25 PM	#14
Adrian_Visser R3VLimited Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Kelowna, BC- CehNehdeh Posts: 2,798	3/4" dr breaker bar ftw __________________ '89 Alpine S52 with goodies