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#16 |
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Wrencher
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Pullman, WA
Posts: 296
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Just did this, and damn is it a pain in the neck to bolt it back on after moving it half an inch. My arm is all cut up from the brake pedal, haha.
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#17 |
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E30 Addict
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Slotted 1/2" and did this.
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Last edited by rightcoastbias; 07-05-2012 at 06:41 AM.. |
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#18 |
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Wrencher
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 212
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Anyone have an extra clevis laying around? Please PM me.
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#19 |
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R3VLimited
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Southern California Cars: 318is (s50), S2000
Posts: 2,232
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I'm using the stock booster. I just re-drilled the holes 1/2 to the right. Works like a charm.
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#20 |
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R3VLimited
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Hows that working out?
Looks like the easiest way
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![]() 1989 BMW 325i SOLD 1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD 1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD 1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207 |
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#21 |
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E30 Addict
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NorCal
Posts: 482
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Subscribed
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#22 |
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Advanced Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 122
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Yeah I'm curious as to why we are looking for these options if the above is true.
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION - 24v 325e (future DD), DD 525i ![]() 24v project - under progress have: m50tu+g260+clutch kit+driveshaft need: 3.25lsd or 3.73lsd, brake booster, "i" cluster, and more PM me if you are selling some 24v swap parts, I'll buy what I need! |
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#23 | |
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Advanced Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 131
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Quote:
Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy. This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system. And it's cheap and simple.
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#24 | |
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R3VLimited
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Quote:
Im in the bay area
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![]() 1989 BMW 325i SOLD 1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD 1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD 1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207 |
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#25 |
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R3VLimited
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Picked up two spare clevis' today from pick n pull. gonna give this a shot
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![]() 1989 BMW 325i SOLD 1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD 1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD 1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207 |
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#26 |
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E30 Modder
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sag Harbor, NY
Posts: 992
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OP, first off, thanks for the Clevis idea. I used it, and I think its a better option than downgrading to a smaller booster.
I had saved an extra booster to get a clevis and cut in half, Just like your setup.. but somebody chucked it and I already had my stuff all apart so I decided to just make the third clevis leg out of scrap steel. works the same.. And I modified the pedal gear bracket to accept the 4th booster nut. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3&l=7e20777903 |
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#27 |
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Member
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I just cut half of the clevis off and attached the other half to the left side of the pedal using washers to make up for the difference on the pin. This makes it perfectly straight as if the booster was never moved. I'll get a photo so you can see what I'm talking about...
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#28 |
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E30 Enthusiast
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24V+ stock /e21 boosters, that's that **** I DON'T LIKE.
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#29 |
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FUCK YOUR WAFFLES
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cottage Grove, OR. E30-86 325 4dr M50
Posts: 5,987
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I moved my whole pedal box over with the booster. But, I needed my brake pedal a little further away from gas pedal.
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#30 |
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E30 Modder
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sag Harbor, NY
Posts: 992
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