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The "JALOPNK" Project - The Modern E30 335i

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    The "JALOPNK" Project - The Modern E30 335i

    Hello Everyone,
    This is the comprehensive project thread containing all of the previous progress done on my 1989 325i, current 335i progress and future Turbo progress. I wanted to create a single unified thread to cover everything Start to Finish to illustrate my vision with this project.

    Prologue
    My E30 enthusiasm first started with the car blog Jalopnik, I always seen them talking about these very iconic fun cars known by their chassis number E30. This was when I was around 17 before I got my first car. My Dad and I went to Impound auctions to find my first car. The first auction I immediately seen a beautiful Zinno E30 and wanted it but wasn’t selling yet. (Ironically, when I pulled the CarFax on my current E30, it WAS that car I seen at the auction as the dates at the auction lined up with when I was there) The first auction didn’t have much, I was picky but settled on bidding for a VW Mk1 but sold above our budget. Three weeks later we returned and found a clean 1991 Alpine 318i. The auction had begun and the price quickly rose but at the last minute my Dad threw up his hand and landed it for $700 dollars. This started the beginning of the E30 cravings.



    Just to briefly explain about the 318i, it was my first car AND my first time driving a manual. My Dad and I did our best to refresh the car with the little money we had. Cleaning the carpets, little body work, paint and of course some bumping tunes. Our neighbor who is a car enthusiast as well as an automotive engineer applauded me on my first car being a BMW and an E30. My Dad took me out to try my hand at driving a manual, I did alright but had plenty of stalling. He gave me 20 bucks to take the car out all week and learn manual before school had started. I spent a good week not getting it until he took me out again and showed me the ropes. Explained that I needed to learn to feather the clutch and told me there is a point in which the position of both the clutch and throttle must be achieved to take off. Truly nothing helped more than understanding the mechanics and figuring it out myself.



    I drove the car for about 8 months, I am grateful to have learned to drive and a manual at that in Gods Chariot. I learned a lot about driving, went through the High School mentality of loud exhaust, autozone intake and driving like an idiot.(Also trying to rally it over washboards, trying to drift it in the rain but ended up parking it in a ditch(thankfully no damage) and took it up to top speed in the middle of the desert, thankfully didn't kill myself) Driving around with tabs of paper jammed in my A/C Button because it was broken. The 318i forever will ever be in my heart but it is a car I would never want again as I abused the utmost hell out of that thing. The 318i was a necessary step but I didn’t learn a damn thing about cars during owning it being more worried about other things. Towards the end of its time with me, it started to feel the wrath I had bestowed upon it. Mechanically, issues were showing up and school was almost over, I figured I better get money out of it before it became a project. I eventually sold it for $2500 to a BMW Mechanic who said he couldn't find a cleaner body and could handle the mechanical issues.


    The 325i Project

    While I was away at Basic Training the summer after high school, my best friend sent me a letter and told me that he had seen the 318i popped up on Craigslist with a ton of mechanical issues. Returning back home I needed a car to get me around, I always had the thought of my 318i in the back of my head. I asked my best friend if he knew of anyone who had E30s, said he might. Got back to me and let me know of a buddy who has four E30s in his junkyard. We went down to check them out. What I found was pretty awesome, two Zinno 89 325i(I now own both), a 87 Zinno 325eS(Full M3 Interior) and a 87 Alpine 325iS(Parts Car). The Zinno Coupe 325i(My car) was in the best condition of the 4, interior was in perfect condition besides the cracked dash, engine bay looked clean and supposedly ran. Owner wanted $1000 for anyone of them. After arguing that he wouldn’t drop the price considering we couldn't confirm if any of them actually ran. I told him I would be back in the morning with $1000 and a tow truck. I picked up the 89 325i Zinno Manual Coupe and took it home. Begins the never ending cycle of repairing, replacing and upgrading E30s...



    My plan of attack was ordering up the Exterior refresh goodies to keep me occupied while I diagnose the mechanical side of things.(You should know that I don’t know the difference between a Valve cover and a cylinder head at this point.) After getting a battery in, the car would crank, everything seemed good but just wont turn over. Did some research and was told to pop the fuel pump. So I did, it was terrible. Bad fuel and the tank was very rusty. So dropped the tank and ordered up a new fuel pump and tank. Got those in and it ran like a champ. Ordered up some Klasse and turned that oxidized nasty paint into a work of art.(Spent a couple days using compound, polish then wax to get my paint to where I wanted it) Car was doing well for three months then my fan clutch decided to explode in traffic on a narrow bridge…smoke pouring out of the crankcase, oil pouring out of every possible place, car stalled getting off the freeway, coolant boiling insanely loud. I then decided it was time for a new engine.


    The 335i Project

    I had looked at many swaps and wanted the perfect one for me. You cannot argue with a M30, OEM Swap, Period correct, it is a monster of an engine, it is reliable and readily available cheaply for parts or replacement. Well I spend weeks looking for an engine, I was about to ship one from CA but was tipped off that a few E32/E34 were in a local yard. I picked up a E32 M30B35 and C101 Harness from a E34. Drove the M30B35 home in the back of the other 325i, a couple local E30 members spotted the car or had friends spot it and posted pictures of me driving this massive engine in the trunk. Refreshed the engine and dropped it in on Garagistic mounting arms. It ran very good until I took it on the final shake down, the car was acting very different that day the coolant gauge was all over the place possibly from air bubbles. Get home think nothing of it, next day walk out to check on it. For S&G I pop the oil filler cap, only to find the dreaded milkshake. After doubting the swap for a few days I finally pulled the engine bay apart and got the head off. What I discovered was a bad casting head. The entire length of the head was cracked front to rear below the intake rocker guide, It was quite a large crack. I will never be able to determine if it was my doing or if it was just a bad head, either way the show must go on. Also have some electrical gremlins to chase, high beams dont work, engine dies when you turn on headlights and alternator charge light doesn’t work. So that concluded the last of the 335i project before I wait to begin the next phase of the project.
    Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-27-2014, 02:22 AM.

    #AZE30
    1991 318i
    1989 325i
    1989 335i

    #2
    The Modern E30 335i

    My options were save up for a new Mustang or put money into my E30. I love Mustangs as much as I love E30s so it truly is a hard choice. If I break a 5.0 Ti-VCT Coyote it would be a very hard bill to swallow but a M30B35? My goal is creating more of a modern feel yet retaining the classic looking and drivers/mechanics workability. I will achieve this with a MS3 Pro ECU which will control A/C, Fans, Flex Fuel capabilities, Traction Control. I also will have vastly improved Handling/Suspension, improved luxury, improved reliability and an electronics suite. Some people might be saying why the hell are you using a M30 instead of a more Modern engine? Cost, availability, reliability, simplicity and is one of the greatest I6s ever made. With a Modern ECU and Turbo, you can turn the M30 into a very promising engine. I want to retain the beauty and simplicity of the E30, using OEM as much as possible.

    Swap Finish: To get the swap back on the road I will be doing a lot of work to get it at a level of reliability until I replace it with a low mileage M30B35. First off will be getting a Cylinder Head. Replacing the E34 Aux Fan with a Spal 16” Curved Blade Pusher on the 318ti 80/82 switch. I will be throwing a 16” Low Profile(2" deep) puller on the back side wired up to a 82c radiator switch, will be on the driverside of the radiator where it is not blocked by the Condenser. My Cooling setup will cover the entire usable area of the E28 Radiator. New Behr E28 535i Radiator and I will be picking up a vacuum bleeder so I never have to worry about air bubbles again. New Bosch 140 amp to help with the added electrical load. Transmission refresh even though it has only 60k miles I want to fix a leaky front seal and upgrade drain and fill plugs to standard hex bolts. I have a M5 Flywheel and will be picking up a new M5 Clutch Kit. A R3v power cable upgrade kit to help the 140 amp alternator and ground everything nicely.

    Suspension and Handling: OZ Racing 16x7 ET37 Superturismo GTs wrapped in 225/45ZR16s BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW should do the trick for performance and ride comfort. 12mm Spacers and 57mm full thread stud conversion. 16" Wilwood Big Brake Kit up front, matching slotted and drilled rotors in the rear with rebuilt calipers using brass guides. A Big Bore Master Cylinder to maintain good pedal feel. OEM Rubber Subframe, RTAB, M3 FCABs, Control Arms. ST Sway Bar Kit. Z3 Rack Conversion. Goal is to get a tight and well balanced handling setup still drivable for a Daily and road trips. New wheel bearings in the back and new hubs in the front.
    H&R Races with Bilstein Sports, I keep flipping back and forth on these but I think I have made my final decision. My initial research found that this setup is too harsh but found it really isn't that bad especially with OEM bushings. I will be getting the race skids X Brace and Skid plate so I never have to worry about my oil pain and the X Brace will really strengthen the front.

    Interior: Rebuilt and rewrapped Sport Seats(I cannot spend over 2k on seats(Recaro Specialists), doesn't make any damn sense). E46 Vert floor mats. Possibly an E46 Center Console. OEM Fire Extinguisher in front below seat or aftermarket in trunk. Aglausa Gun Leather rewrapped M Tech 1 Wheel, Aglausa MTech 1 Round Knob, EVO 3 USSR Shifter and Aglausa Leather Shifter and Brake Boot w/ Handle.

    Stereo: I am going to follow Lukes guidance, will be getting a 12" Luke box with THE Infinity 12”, E34 Mids, Tweeters and his Local Crossover network. Audio Planet AC1800.5 Amp and a KDC-X898 Head Unit for the 3 preouts at 4v a piece.

    Electronics: I will be going with a MS3 Pro ECU, I will be using A/C Control, Fan Control, Traction Control and Launch Control. Tuner 3 Gauge pod in the cubby, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and Coolant Temp.

    ICE: I want a very easy way to manage the multiple systems I will be using in the car. At the center of it all I will be using a ASUS TF701 with a window mount(To be easily removed for security and meets). The TF701 will bluetooth to the Head Unit to pipe in music/sounds/alerts/notifications, I will be running the following apps, whatever Music app I feel like, Google Maps for Nav, Valentine 1 for Radar/Laser monitoring, MSDroid to monitor and tune the Megasquirt and finally a Dash cam app in true Jalopnik fashion. The ASUS TF701 will bring the ICE together very well and will be easily removed when needed.

    Turbo: Finally once the rest of the car has been completed I will start on the Turbo bit. I have thrown the idea around and around, thrown it away and picked it back out of the trash. I seen some Dyno maps of Stock M30B35 with over a thousand in N/A modifications and I was not impressed plus who doesn't love a good turbo pull? 8-10 PSI of boost will make me happy. I wont change anything on the bottom end but I will be getting a performance head. If you blow up a M30B35(IF you can!), pick one up for $200 do the basic refresh of gaskets and seals, and throw it in. You can't beat that. The biggest thing I have to ensure is Cooling and Reliability. The current idea is a TCD Stage 1 kit without the chip, you cannot beat the price they are asking for a well built kit. Will be getting all the turbo bits ceramic coated to bring down the heat produced from the Turbo. My biggest argument against the Turbo piece is that it will throw a LOT of heat. In Arizona last summer, one day, sitting in traffic at 3pm, the Ambient temperature in the traffic was 125f. With A/C and a Turbo this is not good, so I will see how my cooling system works this summer with just A/C. If needed I will get a giant 35 amp fan to replace the 16" Spal Pusher and a custom aluminum radiator. Regarding the reliability piece you cannot go wrong with the TCD Cast Manifold as it is as reliable as it gets. MS3 Pro is a highly reliable ECU that has huge capability. As long as everything stays cool and is reliable, I am golden.
    Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-27-2014, 03:02 AM.

    #AZE30
    1991 318i
    1989 325i
    1989 335i

    Comment


      #3
      Project Requirements
      • This is a Daily Driver and a Touring Car, will see many miles
      • This Car must be reliable, balanced both in power and handling
      • COOLING, COOLING and MORE COOLING
      • The overall idea is building what feels like a more modern BMW in the E30 Shell
      • This is a Jalopnik inspired build(Could only be better if it was a brown 2 door touring 324td)


      The Current Parts List

      Drivetrain
      • M30B35 with Factory Replacement Getrag 260/6(Small Guibo)
      • Rebuilt Late Model 325i Manual Driveshaft
      • Low Mile 3.25 LSD
      • New CV Axles

      Exhaust
      • Stock Headers
      • Y Pipe to 2.5"
      • 8" Ceramic Cat
      • 18" Glasspack
      • 2.5" Inlet 3" Outlet DTM Style Muffler

      Suspension/Handling
      • Condor Motor and Transmission Mounts
      • Stock

      Interior
      • Stock

      Exterior
      • Stock

      Wheels
      • Black Bottlecaps in Kumhos

      Electronics
      • Chipped 179 ECU

      Brakes
      • New Slave Cylinder
      • Stock Brakes


      The Future Parts List

      Drivetrain
      • Low Mile M30B35 w/ Performance Head
      • New Wheel Bearings and Hubs

      Cooling
      • E28 535i Behr Radiator
      • E28 and E30 Silicon Hoses
      • 16" High Performance Spal Pusher on A/C Relay with 80/88c Switch
      • 16" Low Profile Spal Puller on Spal Relay with 82c Switch

      Exhaust
      • Stock Headers
      • Stock Downpipe
      • Dual 2" to Single 3" Y Pipe with O2 Sensor
      • 3" Vibrant Metal Core Race Cat(So pops and bangs won't kill it)
      • 3" Vibrant Ultra-Quiet Resonator
      • 3" to Dual 3.5" Vibrant Muffler
      • 304 Stainless Tubing from the Cat Back(The Downpipe will be Stainless and meet at the front of the Cat)

      Suspension/Handling
      • OEM Rubber Subframe, Diff, Transmission and RTABs
      • Z3 Rack with OEM Rubber Coupler
      • H&R Race with Bilstein Sports
      • Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Kit
      • New Control Arms and M3 Offset CABs
      • Garagistic Reinforcement Kits
      • Raceskids X Brace with M30 Swap Skid Plate

      Interior
      • Rebuilt and Reupholstered Sport Seats
      • Rear Armrest Seat
      • E46 Center Console for cup holders and Armrest
      • Round Knob M Tech Shifter with EVO 3 USSR and Delrins

      Exterior
      • Zinno Repaint
      • Body Work on Fender Damage
      • Smoked US Ellipsoids, HIDs and Fog Light lense refresh with HIDs
      • Euro Trim, Grills, Kidneys
      • M Tech 1 or Alpina Spoiler and iS Lip
      • 30% Tint

      Wheels
      • 16x7 ET37 OZ Superturismo GTs
      • 225/45ZR16 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW
      • 12mm Wheel Spacers
      • 57 Full thread Wheel Stud Conversion with Black Wheel Locks

      Electronics
      • MS3 Pro
      • The Cubby Gauge Pod with Oil Pressure, Oil temp and Coolant Temp
      • Valentine 1, Mirror Mounted with Direct Power Line and Android Module
      • ASUS TF701 for seamless Bluetooth Music Management, Nav and V1 Monitoring

      Brakes
      • Wilwood 16” Big Brake Kit up front
      • Rebuilt rear calipers with new rotors and brass guides
      • Big Bore Master Cylinder


      Problems, Advice Needed…
      • High Beams not working
      • Headlights second turn on will kill engine
      • Alternator Charge light does not work
      • Entire Build look over by the community to improve performance/reduce cost


      Corrections
      • H&R Race with Billy Sports
      • Rubber OEM Subframe, RTABs and M3 FCABs
      • 16x7 ET25(After 12mm Spacers) 225/45ZR16 confirmed to fit so I will be rocking those.
      • 06/20 Exhaust, Interior, Cooling, Electronics Update


      I will be getting another DSLR so expect lots of pictures.
      Project Photo Album


      Thanks for reading!
      Please leave comments, questions, concerns, opinions and advice!
      Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-27-2014, 03:04 AM.

      #AZE30
      1991 318i
      1989 325i
      1989 335i

      Comment


        #4
        For tires and width I would consider much bigger than 225s or at least 225s, 205s will light up even at 300hp easy. I would also consider a different manifold while the tcd is quality it doesn't leave much room for upgrade and considering its a log manifold is will not flow as well.
        One of your key points should be to build a car that will put the power down well and have a good torque curve, TCD will make is fast but I believe you will end up with a faster more reliable car if you do your own research and piece it together.

        Comment


          #5
          Why the smaller guibo? Especially if you go turbo.
          Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

          Comment


            #6
            I disagree with taco-man. The cast TCD manifold is perfect for your planned setup. It is more robust than many of the tubular manifolds on the market and will fit perfectly well into your power goals.

            Sounds like you've done your homework OP. I would suggest swaybar reinforcements (some kits already come with them but the ST's do not).

            Megasquirt, look up user Whodwho as well as a few others on the board.

            Also if this is suppose to be street driven daily driver, just a heads up that solid mounts aren't for everyone (as are solid guibos), But it sounds like you already know what you're looking at (some people like it).

            As a short-lived jalopnik intern I'm looking forward to your progress.
            Last edited by SkiFree; 06-10-2014, 07:15 PM.
            ADAMS Autosport

            Comment


              #7
              in

              Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
              Ig:ryno_pzk
              I like the tuna here.
              Originally posted by lambo
              Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
                I disagree with taco-man. The cast TCD manifold is perfect for your planned setup. It is more robust than many of the tubular manifolds on the market and will fit perfectly well into your power goals.


                Megasquirt, look up user Whodwho as well as a few others on the board.
                The only reason why I say to stray from a TCD setup is to avoid the chip and go straight to Megasquirt. Another key feature of the log manifold is that they are much stronger but the m30 turbo manifold market isnt flooded with chinese manifolds so the only ones you can get are quality. For the same price or less you can get one that makes more hp, which can equate to lower boost to achieve the same peak horsepower. The lower the boost the more with good tuning will also meaning more longevity.


                This is a good example of it here S2000 with three manifold styles dynoed.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by TheTacoMan View Post
                  For tires and width I would consider much bigger than 225s or at least 225s, 205s will light up even at 300hp easy. I would also consider a different manifold while the tcd is quality it doesn't leave much room for upgrade and considering its a log manifold is will not flow as well.
                  One of your key points should be to build a car that will put the power down well and have a good torque curve, TCD will make is fast but I believe you will end up with a faster more reliable car if you do your own research and piece it together.
                  Will 225s or bigger fit on those OZ 16x7's?

                  I hear the Log Manifold is as reliable as it gets.

                  I am looking for a quick fun street car.

                  Originally posted by Bearmw View Post
                  Why the smaller guibo? Especially if you go turbo.
                  Really doesn't matter, Small guibo output flange on the Getrag 260/6. If it's truly a big difference, I can swap to a ETA Manual Driveshaft and swap the Large Guibo output flange back on but I don't believe it is.

                  Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
                  I disagree with taco-man. The cast TCD manifold is perfect for your planned setup. It is more robust than many of the tubular manifolds on the market and will fit perfectly well into your power goals.

                  Sounds like you've done your homework OP. I would suggest swaybar reinforcements (some kits already come with them but the ST's do not).

                  Megasquirt, look up user Whodwho as well as a few others on the board.

                  Also if this is suppose to be street driven daily driver, just a heads up that solid mounts aren't for everyone (as are solid guibos), But it sounds like you already know what you're looking at (some people like it).

                  As a short-lived jalopnik intern I'm looking forward to your progress.
                  Exactly, main reason I am going with it, a cast log manifold for low boost application is very reliable and durable.

                  I didn't know that, I will be getting swaybar reinforcements now. I originally was getting the IE kit and I know they didn't require it. Didn't realize the ST one didn't, thanks for the heads up!

                  I have messaged him. He said most of that stuff is just plugins so I will probably end up going through him for it.

                  Will be going with this set up, keeping my Condor Engine Mounts, switching to OEM Tranny mounts, M3 FCABs, OEM Subframe and RTABs.

                  I have the Arizona "JALOPNK" plate on this car, once this project is done I will be posting a very long well written project piece on Oppo. I know it will attract a lot of attention and interest especially since Jalopnik made me a car enthusiast and an E30 lover.

                  Originally posted by TheTacoMan View Post
                  The only reason why I say to stray from a TCD setup is to avoid the chip and go straight to Megasquirt. Another key feature of the log manifold is that they are much stronger but the m30 turbo manifold market isnt flooded with chinese manifolds so the only ones you can get are quality. For the same price or less you can get one that makes more hp, which can equate to lower boost to achieve the same peak horsepower. The lower the boost the more with good tuning will also meaning more longevity.


                  This is a good example of it here S2000 with three manifold styles dynoed.
                  I would be getting the no chip kit. I will take a look at some tube manifolds but would rather have a little higher boost and durable manifold.
                  Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-11-2014, 01:27 PM.

                  #AZE30
                  1991 318i
                  1989 325i
                  1989 335i

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by LagunaSecaBlue View Post
                    Will 225s or bigger fit on those OZ 16x7's?

                    I hear the Log Manifold is as reliable as it gets.

                    I am looking for a quick fun street car.

                    I am biased towards getting grip, sure sticky 205s would be fun but would it be the best? Which then leads me to the manifold argument, nothing wrong with the TCD other than that are better flowing manifolds.
                    I would get 8s if you are going for a sticky 225 as they tend to run wide.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TheTacoMan View Post
                      I am biased towards getting grip, sure sticky 205s would be fun but would it be the best? Which then leads me to the manifold argument, nothing wrong with the TCD other than that are better flowing manifolds.
                      I would get 8s if you are going for a sticky 225 as they tend to run wide.
                      Just confirmed I can run those 16x7 Et37 in 225/45ZR16 on 12mm spacers. Apparently fitment is perfect.

                      I will be sticking with the TCD Stage 1. Its a good deal considering I will be using a lot of the stuff in the Kit.
                      Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-11-2014, 11:04 PM.

                      #AZE30
                      1991 318i
                      1989 325i
                      1989 335i

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Kamotors will be making an m30 that will blow tcd out of the water, just dont know when. :D

                        Comment


                          #13
                          What's the weight distribution like with an M30 in the front?
                          sigpic

                          (clicky on piccy to get to thread)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by econti View Post
                            What's the weight distribution like with an M30 in the front?
                            Anywhere from 54-46, 52-48. Its not bad, but with all the audio equipment in the back I should be able to get 51-49 or close to 50/50 according to other numbers I have found. I will getting my car Dyno'd and weighed once its finished.

                            #AZE30
                            1991 318i
                            1989 325i
                            1989 335i

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Update:ECU will be MS3, new suspension setup with H&R Race and Bilstein Sports, not using solid mounts/bushings anymore except engine mounts instead OEM Rubber, cooling update to include 16" puller.
                              Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-27-2014, 03:07 AM.

                              #AZE30
                              1991 318i
                              1989 325i
                              1989 335i

                              Comment

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