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Explain caster adjust on GC touring plates

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    Explain caster adjust on GC touring plates

    I have the GC touring plates and I'm trying to figure out the caster adjustment that they claim:

    • A clean sheet design for street cars, not an adapted spherical race plate.
    • Waterproof, German-made, axial load steering bearings.
    • Allows for up to 23.5mm total camber adjustment. (16mm negative - 7.5mm positive)
    • Unique slot design allows for caster correction.
    • Revolutionary caster adjustment can be locked or unlocked.
    • Urethane center mounts reduce NVH, yet do not flex.
    • All components plated or anodized for corrosion resistance.
    • Zinc plated mounting bracket for ease of install and adjustment.
    • Available for stock diameter, 60mm or 2.5 inch springs
    Can anyone explain it to me, because I didnt get a satisfactory answer from GC. From what I understood, it's just the slack in the bolts/holes that allows some coarse caster adjustment. But that doesnt really jive with the 'revolutionary' and 'locked or unlocked' description... How exactly do you lock and unlock it? What's so revolutionary about a bit of slack in the holes? I feel like im missing something.
    Bonus question: is it normal that the spring hat/bearing separate from the plate so easily? I had lowered the height adjuster down leaving the spring loose, and the spring hat and bearing washer followed, exposing the bearings. Doesnt seem right, shouldnt this be held together somehow?

    90 E30 325i

    #2
    They aren't technically caster/camber plates. The larger opening(slot) allows a small amount of adjustment, if necessary, to equalize the passenger and drivers sides.

    The washers in the slots "lock" caster in the stock position, while removing them, allows for adjustment.

    Mark
    Yes, I'm still here...;)

    And to answer your question about the perch. The perch, bearing and plate have a slight interference fit. If the spring is wrapped so that is does not slip on and off of the spring perch, when you lower the suspension, the spring will pull the bearing apart. If the spring was not finished well, the pigtail will reduce the actual ID of the spring.
    Last edited by DRTSRFR; 09-05-2014, 08:00 AM.
    Suspension tips here...
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

    sigpic

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      #3
      Originally posted by DRTSRFR View Post
      They aren't technically caster/camber plates. The larger opening(slot) allows a small amount of adjustment, if necessary, to equalize the passenger and drivers sides.

      The washers in the slots "lock" caster in the stock position, while removing them, allows for adjustment.

      Mark
      Yes, I'm still here...;)

      oh i see the light! no one explained to me that removing the washers was required to unlock the castor goodness. There should be a minimum of instructions provided with these products...

      Makes plenty of sense now, i was wondering why GC bothered with the washers, they are just annoying because they fall out and bounce away like a bag of marbles everytime you unmount the suspension. Now i understand their purpose.

      Can anyone take a jab at the bonus question now? I run my adjusters high enough to keep the spring preloaded slightly even at max droop. Therefore the plates are kept in one piece. But i'm sure many run much lower, isnt there risk the plate separates?
      90 E30 325i

      Comment


        #4
        The plate(bearing) can separate if the spring is too tight on the perch.
        The perch is exactly 2.5" OD. Springs are typically 2.6" OD or so. Sometimes when the spring is ground, the very tip of the final wind will protrude inboard slightly and reduce the diameter at that point.
        Suspension tips here...
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

        sigpic

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by DRTSRFR View Post
          The plate(bearing) can separate if the spring is too tight on the perch.
          The perch is exactly 2.5" OD. Springs are typically 2.6" OD or so. Sometimes when the spring is ground, the very tip of the final wind will protrude inboard slightly and reduce the diameter at that point.
          ok you are confirming there is nothing mechanically holding the plate together when the supsension is unloaded except the 'stickiness' of the bearing grease. i understand that normally the spring will separate away from the plate before the plate separates itself. i just hope this thing really is water/dirt proof.
          90 E30 325i

          Comment


            #6
            The bearing is a factory e46 part.

            The two halves of the bearing are designed to snap together and should not separate unless the spring is stuck to the perch.
            Suspension tips here...
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              ok i get it now, it's a light snapping action that keeps the halves together. it came apart when i unscrewed the strut nut and pulled it out, i guess i must have clipped the spring hat when pulling it out unsnapping it.

              i feel better about the whole thing now. thanks for clarification. i will double check everything is back together properly tonight.

              somewhat related: dont neglect the loctite on the strut collar nut, mine came loose after a few days only.
              90 E30 325i

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