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FS: 1987 BMW 325is - Bronzit - 5spd Manual - 109k Original Miles

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    FS: 1987 BMW 325is - Bronzit - 5spd Manual - 109k Original Miles

    $8500 or Best Offer – Includes all spares

    1987 BMW 325is –Bronzit - 5spd – 3.73LSD – 2 Door Coupe - WBAAA1306H8250114

    • 109k Original Miles – Cluster was replaced by BMW at 77k miles by BMW and is documented with a sticker on the door jam and the Carfax confirms this.
    • Clean Carfax – All matching VIN tags.
    • Original Bronzit paint with minor dings and scratches for a 28 year old car.
    • Very minor rust for a car that was originally from NY – All areas treated with rust inhibitor and there is no rust in the usual spots (no sunroof, wheel arch or battery tray rust).
    • All factory gauges, tachometer, and electronic controls work, including:
    o 13 button On Board Computer with perfect LCD
    o Fully functioning Power Sunroof with Tilt
    o Rear Window Defrost
    o Power Side Mirrors
    o Fully Working Air Conditioning – Converted to R134A (factory conversion by BMW dealer)
    o Factory Heat and Defrost still works well
    o All factory warning lights work, except for the oil level sensor (removed for Paul Poore Oil Pan).
    • The only known non-working electrical device is the passenger side door micro-switch for the central locking system. The door still locks with the key and the driver door & trunk will lock together via the key.
    • Car is fully street legal with working headlights, taillights, turn signals, interior lights, e-brake & horn.
    • Cruise control is not operational (will work if you remove the front strut tower bar) only because of the front strut tower bar interference.
    • All new belts accessory belts.
    • Timing belt & Water Pump done at 90k miles
    • ’87 cars are desirable for track due to the dual fuel pump setup that will allow you to run the tank very low prior to fuel starve

    Suspension:
    • Spec E30 Suspension – Bilstein Sports with H&R Race Springs
    • Suspension Techniques 22mm Front Sway Bar & 19mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
    • Toe and Camber Adjustable Rear Sub-frame
    • AKG 75D Rear Sub-frame mounts
    • Ireland Engineering Camber Plates
    • AKG Urethane Rear Shock Mounts
    • Treehouse Racing Front Control Arm Lollipop Mounts

    Engine:

    • Stock M20B25 Inline 6 cylinder
    • Paul Poore Trap Door Oil Pan – No oil pressure loss at all in sustained corners
    • Conforti Turner Motorsports Chip
    • Mobil 1 15w-50 used for the life of the engine. I changed it before each track event, which was usually around 150 mile increments.

    Brakes:

    • ATE Stock Calipers all around (rebuilt)
    • Front Brake Cooling Duct Adapters
    • 3” 600 degree Cooling Duct Hose
    • Stainless Steel Brake Lines

    Wheels/Exhaust/Other:

    • Custom Exhaust with Magnaflow Muffler
    • ARP Extended Length Lug Studs
    • Kosei K1 15x7 wheels with 205/50/15 Dunlop ZII (Non Star Spec) with 6/32” all around (currently)

    Driveline:

    • Stock Getrag 260 that shifts perfectly with no grinds
    • Previous owner replaced the clutch with likely a Sachs equivalent – Good lockup
    • Z3 Short Shifter with Delrin Carrier Bushing
    • New Driveshaft from Driveshaft Specialists of Texas
    • AKG 75D Differential Mount
    • AKG 75D Motor Mounts
    • AKG 75D Transmission Mounts
    • E46 ZHP Weighted Shift Knob
    • Stock 3.73 LSD with proper lockup – Inside the car you will hear some driveline noise due to the 75D differential and transmission mounts.

    Seats/Safety/Steering:

    • VAC Motorsports Seat Mounts (2 pair)
    • VAC Seat Side Mounts
    • VAC Anti Sub Belt Mounts (2 Pair)
    • VAC Side Belt Mounts (2 Pair)
    • OMP HTE XL Full Containment Seats (2 pair) – Dated
    • Schroth Profi II-6 Harnesses (2 Pair) – Expires End of 2019
    • OMP Shoulder Pads (2 Pair)
    • OMP Pedal Covers
    • Alpina Replica Dead Pedal
    • Competition Cages 4 Point Bolt-In Roll Bar – Installed by Chris Schimmel
    • Roll Bar Bolt On Harness Guides (2 Pair)
    • Sparco Seat Slider (not installed)
    • OMP Targa 330mm Steering Wheel – Working Horn even with Quick Release Hub
    • Rogue Engineering Quick Release Steering Wheel Hub
    • Momo Steering Wheel Hub Adapter
    • Clip-On Wide Angle Rearview Mirror
    • Nylon Tow Hooks front and rear

    Gauges/Warning Lights:
    • Autometer 3 Pod Gauge Dash Mount
    • Autometer Mechanical Gauges
    o Oil Temperature
    o Water Temperature
    o Oil Pressure
    • Longacre Water Pressure Warning Light
    • Longacre Oil Pressure Warning Light
    • Dial Adjustable Summit Racing Shift Light

    Other:
    • Hardwired 4 Port USB Power Supply – Data Collection Power
    • Alpine Head Unit with Bluetooth, USB & iPod Controls and Wired Microphone
    • Front License Plate Delete Strip
    • Dynamat like product installed by the previous owner in the interior and trunk area to limit noise in the cabin
    • Factory Jack
    • Factory Tool Kit with all tools
    • WeatherTech Floor Mats

    Spares:

    • Urethane Differential Mount (used)
    • Urethane Subframe Mounts (used)
    • Urethane Motor Mounts (used)
    • Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses (new)
    • Every Relay for the car (used)
    • Front and Rear Stock ATE Calipers (freshly rebuilt)
    • AFM (used – tested good)
    • IAV (used – tested good)
    • Ignition Coil (used – tested good)
    • Distributor Cap & Rotor (new)
    • Spark Plugs – 6 (new)
    • Magnecore 7mm Plug & Coil Wires (new)
    • Intake Boot (new)
    • Throttle Body – Stock for M20 (used - cleaned)
    • Treehouse Racing Lollipop Urethane Inserts (new)
    • M20 Stock Fuel Injectors (recently rebuilt and flow tested)
    • Accessory belts (Fan & Alt, Power Steering and Air Conditioning)
    • Stock ECU with stock Chip – 153
    • Stock ECU Chip (from the ECU in the car with the Conforti Chip)
    • 2 sets of Front and 1 set of Rear Stock ATE Rotors (new)
    • Axxis Ultimate Front Pads and Axxis Deluxe Rear Pads (less than 500 miles) for the street
    • Multiple sets of partially used track pads
    • Other stock parts too, the list goes on

    The car perfect balance between a light duty street car and a bullet proof HPDE/Track Car. The car has strong power, excellent brakes and handles very well with great predictability & feel. It runs all day long with low oil temps, consistent water temp and is very easy on brakes and tires. The extensive spares listed for this car will ensure little or no downtime at any track weekend. The car was built for reliability, with everything but the exhaust and Conforti ECU chip being Spec E30 legal. The car needs very little to go Spec E30 (I can provide a list) or easily be converted back to stock seats (no holes drilled for any seat or belt mounts thanks to the VAC mounts) and have a great street car that can do dual duty for track or autocross.

    Due to having a LeChump car now, lacking weekends to run this (will only run this at CMP June 6/7 this year) and the desire to get back into autocross, this needs to stop sitting and go to someone who will use it. Clean title in hand. I have owned the car since March 2013.

    Car will be at Carolina Motorsports Park this weekend (6/5-6/7) for anyone in the area that wants to inspect it. The car otherwise located in Matthews, NC just outside of Charotte.



















    iPhone4 & GPS puck & mount not included :)


































    Dial adjustable shift light:


    USB Power Hub switch and for backlight gauge lighting/warning lights/shift light:










    Racekeeper not included :)


    For the bimmerphiles that love their toolkit:








    You can PM me, email me at b1mmer "at" aol.com or call or text me at 7 zero 4-644-3913. Thanks for looking - AB
    Last edited by B1mmer; 06-05-2015, 07:46 AM.

    #2
    Wow, doing bronzit some justice! Really nice-looking ride, sir...GLWS

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks. Updated pictures tonight should really tell the story. - AB

      Comment


        #4
        I have a similarly built up track toy..

        this is a very very nice car...w/ all the right bits....it wasn't cheap to put together.....


        great car to buy.....


        skip the hassles of doing it yourself..this car is done.
        I love sitting down and just driving!

        Comment


          #5
          <<< Previous owner

          This is a really solid car. It was a nice car when I bought it from another R3vLimited member several years ago, but it's MUCH nicer now after a couple of years with Aaron. It is rock solid mechanically (for Aaron and the 2 previous owners), and cosmetically nice as well. I wish I had room so I could buy it back.

          Bump for an excelent car and a meticulous seller.
          Tom F.
          '97 M3 | '88 535i

          Comment


            #6
            Updated with pictures from this morning... - AB

            Comment


              #7
              This car is a steal.

              Comment


                #8
                Are the gauges and other bits on the dash attached with screws or are could they be removed without needing to source a new dash?
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by willworkfore30s View Post
                  Are the gauges and other bits on the dash attached with screws or are could they be removed without needing to source a new dash?
                  No, if you wanted to convert it to a stock car without gauges, then you would need to source another dash. I know people will think I am crazy, but that dash was completely crack free when I drilled the holes in it. Sourcing another was too big a job at the time.

                  The gauge pod and lines running to the gauges created holes in the dash. These are mechanical gauges, so both temp gauges have a temp bulb and line that needs to feed directly to the source. The oil pressure gauge actually takes pressure from the back of it with a mechanical feed of oil. Braided lines both interior and in the engine bay were used for safety. Mechanical gauges in my opinion are better as they are more accurate than most electrical gauges, but definitely harder to install.

                  For a pure street car, I would still keep the gauge pod. It doesn't obstruct your view at all and really is valuable information. The shift light and warning lights are attached with high strength velcro. - AB

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Blown away, very well done. GLWS wish I had room.
                    sigpic

                    Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

                    1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

                    Instagram @rebellionforge

                    Comment


                      #11
                      wow:)
                      -1986 S50Turbo Sedan (475WHP/417WTQ) Castromotorsport Built (Sold)
                      -1987 Coupe (17x10.5"/17x14")
                      Castromotorsport / Buddha_Concept_designs Built *UnderConstruction*



                      Follow me on Instagram: obes_sebo
                      For more updates:)
                      Purchase FeedBack http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=278838

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Very nice, looks like a bargain.

                        87 4dr specE30: Bitsy (lurking above), 89 4dr 325i blau, 91 318is brillrot, 90 325ivertbronzit

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just completed my last track event in the car. I had my first mechanical in the car when a stainless steel brake line got completely severed from debris. Really odd, but it happened when the car was 75% of the way through the braking zone, so the car didn't leave the pavement. New stainless steel lines going on tomorrow. - AB

                          Comment


                            #14
                            great pics..they just enforce the build level.....good good stuff...I likey


                            its a long standing debate when speaking of (failed) SS lines vs new fresh oe rubber lines. Folks often say good rubber lines NEVER fail...yet we hear stories of failed SS lines from time to time......strange...I run SS but these stories always shake me.


                            oh...

                            when u drilled holes in the dash...I assumed you used self tapping screws?..

                            or did u actually have the dash apart and you used "nuts/securing fasteners" on the underside as well?
                            I love sitting down and just driving!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by JRKOUPE View Post


                              oh...

                              when u drilled holes in the dash...I assumed you used self tapping screws?..

                              or did u actually have the dash apart and you used "nuts/securing fasteners" on the underside as well?
                              Full dash removal and drilled holes to secure the dash pod with nuts/screws. I also needed to drill a hole in order to feed the mechanical gauge lines. I was careful to plan this as I wanted to ensure that all facets of the HVAC still worked afterward.

                              I agree with you on SS lines too. I've heard more failures of them than OE rubber. It's odd. - AB

                              Comment

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