My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)

[fretburnr]

after seeing this thread i purchased one and installed it in all of 15 minutes. Absolutely the best $35 spent on my car.

[DanGillan]

um... i install these units, they work for 2 days, and now it only locks/unlocks if the trunk is open and the remote is right up to the unit, i have the wire for the antenna extended up under the rear speaker deck, and even if i put the remote up to the end of the antenna, it still doesnt work. this is gay.

[GaryE30]

I'm bringing back an old thread b/c I purchased one of the Keyless Remotes. I was bringing it back up b/c I was wondering if anyone figured out how to make the signals blink when the buttons are pressed.

[Jordan325iC]

I would also be in for a group buy. Looks like a sweet little mod.

edit: Err, I checked the date. Nevermind. But thanks for brining this thread to my attention anyway. Does anybody know if this guy still sell those things/where I could get one?

"mypushcart" on ebay sells them, and has some for sale right now. Oh, I'm ordering.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmypushcartQQhtZ-1

[Jordan325iC]

Alright, I've recieved mine and I'm preparing to do this. I have a few questions that I can't remember have been answered yet, and I don't feel like going through the 14 pages of posts for the third time... Anyhow, the blue and green wires from the reciever unit, aka:

Car Wire -- Keyless Wire -- Function
Brown -- Black -- Ground
Red -- Red -- 12V
Green/Black -- Green -- Lock
Green/Purple -- Blue -- Unlock

do these wires come from the 3pin, correct?

Also, when you program the lock and unlock functions, do you want them set as "On Demand" or "Latch / Unlatch"?

What color is the trunk release wire? Which color wire should I splice in and which setting (On Demand or Latch/Unlatch) should I program the pop-trunk output? Can anybody give me some guidelines for trying to get a trunk-pop button to work on my remote?

[e30evolution]

Alright, I've recieved mine and I'm preparing to do this. I have a few questions that I can't remember have been answered yet, and I don't feel like going through the 14 pages of posts for the third time... Anyhow, the blue and green wires from the reciever unit, aka:

do these wires come from the 3pin, correct?

Also, when you program the lock and unlock functions, do you want them set as "On Demand" or "Latch / Unlatch"?

What color is the trunk release wire? Which color wire should I splice in and which setting (On Demand or Latch/Unlatch) should I program the pop-trunk output? Can anybody give me some guidelines for trying to get a trunk-pop button to work on my remote?

the trunk only opens if you push the button... unless you install some door poppers (on the trunk) the trunk will stay closed until you push that little button on the trunk

[Jordan325iC]

Mmmm... thanks, I thought I heard somewhere that that was possible.

Anyhow, I know alot of you have done this, so just re-assure me on these two questions so I can get this done!

The blue and green wires from the reciever come from the 3pin plug, correct?

When you program the lock and unlock functions, do you want them set as "On Demand" or "Latch / Unlatch"?

[robert325is]

are you guys that were having problems with the units crapping out still having problems?

dan?

[DanGillan]

yea mine is still non functional. piece of shit. if i had to do it again i would have just spent the $150 on a simple alarm from a shop.

[Jordan325iC]

Mine works great. Right now I'm getting a whining sound whenever I lock my doors, want to make sure I've got it set right. Just one questions left:

Should I set the #1 and #2 (lock and unlock) outputs for "Latch/Unlatch" (middle) or "On Demand" (outer)?

[Q5Quint]

hey, I dont know,

but my alarm should be here tomorrow~ Install on wednesday. I plan on setting the lock/unlock output functions from the wireless to the lock/unlock functions on the trunk, and getting one of those motion sensors so if somebody breaks my windows and tries to steal my shit they will get an annoying alarm honking at them. I wont bother with the ignition disable, as if the unit died I might not be able to start the car, and nobody in their right mind would try and steal a 20 year old bmw, the alarm would be enough to scare kids away.

look here
http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/carthieframpage.html

what unit did you get? I decided to go with the not quite super cheap k9 thing.

[Q5Quint]

*update*

I got it installed and working~ I thought it didnt work at first, but it was only because you cant lock the doors when the door is open

I will get the flashing lights relay thing installed tomorrow and everything else solderd and slip-tied up all nice like.

I took pictures etc bc it was a pain trying to figure out what wires went where. I did buy the car alarm thing over the plain keyless entry~ it was like 15$ more but I think the flashing lights alone will be worth that. The siren is loud as hell so I dont know if I am going to use it.

[Q5Quint]

Hey guys, sorry I took so long, but here we go
This is for the 44.90 shipped k9 mundail 2 alarm, so it is a bit more pricey than the 30$ keyless, but hell, you get fuses and a siren and the lights will blink. It works AWESOME and has at least a 50ft range. I recommend this for every e30 and every car that doesn’t have keyless yet.



This is what came in the package from eBay user 'mypushcart'. You see the wiring harness and fuses, a relay to make the horn honk, the main unit, the remotes which are quite small and nice looking, siren, shock sensor, and lots of wires.



the instruction manual tells you essentially what to connect, but it doesn’t tell you what to connect it to. If you look online (google search for k9 mundail alarm manual or something) you can find a pdf which gives way more detail than the little book. The mypushcart guy also includes a printout that tells you what wires to splice into for your particular car, and amazingly he was right. It's just a bit of trouble finding the wires.

The first thing I did was decide I wanted the remotes to activate the trunk unlock, since I thought that wouldn’t damage the locks for some reason. So I looked in the trunk like the guy from here did. http://zoso.no-ip.org/318i-ke.html



The brown is ground, green/black and green/purple are the lock unlock, and I really am not sure what the blue and white ones are, but they don’t matter so o well.

The instructions called for me to look in the driver’s side kick panel for a wiring harness, so hey I found it a bit under the carpet after removing the speaker panel. You might have to remove the trunk opener latch thing, but luckily I don’t have one for some reason, so it was easier than it should have been.



remember the green/black and green/purple wires from the trunk? Search around through the harness a bit and you will find them. You might have to cut a slip tie or some of that strange tape stuff to get them out enough to splice into.



Be careful when you start stripping the insulation away, I am not too good at it and clipped one of the wires in two~ and the wiring harness does not give you much extra wire to work with, so BE CAREFUL if you want it to be easy. I also just taped everything up the first time to make sure that everything worked right~ later I cut the wires to a nice correct length and soldered everything up all nice and pretty and tied them out of the way. The blue and green wires come from a little plug that, well, plugs into the keyless unit. I think if you hooked them up opposite of what I did, the lock/unlock on the keychain might be reversed, but it wouldn't hurt your car. I also want to mention that the locks are triggered by the circuit grounding out, so be careful when your splicing to not let your pliers touch the side of the car, or the locks will try to lock/unlock and it might damage them.



The keyless unit needs a switch on the accessory circuit to know when the car is on and off, and you switch the car on and off to change some of the functions on the thing, so you have to do this. The instructions called for you to splice into a green wire coming from the ignition switch. It is pretty hefty and easy to find.



For the siren I was going to put it behind the headlight, but it wouldn’t fit too well. There is a good spot for it beside the horn on the front of the car, but if it started going off somebody could reach up under there and yank it out if they felt like it, so I went with a 'top mount' solution. The alarm is really freaking loud if you leave it inside the car like I did when I was making sure everything worked, so I would recommend you put it outside if you value your ear drums. It’s also nice because if you lose your car in the parking lot, just unlocking the doors is loud enough to point you in the general direction.



If the coolant gets too hot and it melts or something, there is a relay included with the package so you can make your horn honk instead of the siren go off~ but I hope I wont have to figure that one out.

Here is how you make the parking lights flash.



There is a grey/white and a grey/yellow wire coming out of the light switch. They are a pain to get to, but each one is for one side of the car. Just splice in the white wires from the unit and wow the lights flash. Each one is for a different side of the car, so you have to splice them both or only one side of the car would flash.

Here is the last thing you should do before you plug the harness into the main unit thingy. I think it’s a plug for the door chime, but I don’t have a door chime or under column panel so I am just guessing. You could pull power and ground from anywhere you felt like, but since this was hanging down anyway I went with it.



After I got everything hooked up, I made sure the thing worked, the soldered and fiddled with some wires, cut some shorter and moved some stuff around, and ended up with this:






I would say it has at least a 50ft range with the antenna going up under the door seal on the drivers side~ more than enough range for me. I turned the shock sensor so that it never actually makes the alarm go off, but if you nudge the car enough it will give a good warning beep. There are some extra wires you can hook up that will make the alarm go off if a door is opened etc, but I was more interested in the keyless aspect than the annoying alarm that will go off at 3am, so I just stuffed them up under the dash.

I say it was the best 44.90 spent on my car so far.

So here is the pic of the final installation all tucked up and nice, well except for that yellow wire but I fixed it afterwards.



Please ask me any questions and I can try and edit this and explain what happened a bit better, it isn’t hard at all and it took an hour or so to get working the first time, and then another hour or 2 to get everything perfect soldered and tucked away etc.

If you don’t have one, buy it and do it.

[BMW2ner]

has any one had problems getting the thing to work? proabably problem with remort programing

[Garageaholic]

I have seen a great alarm on the following website.. let me know what you guys think,, if it's a good buy....

http://bmwalarm.vstore.ca/index.php/cPath/2?osCsid=f16c9eda6a11826b9e1509174065268e