My e30 318is s52 swap thread

[longms]

Awesome license plate. Definitely a one-off plate!!!!

[e30s52]

sick plate!!!

[windsor318is]

alright im done slacking, and parts are coming in daily so i better get on it. i received the new 2.93 lsd today, so i started to clean it a bit, and start pulling mine out. before i totally take mine out, whats the easiest way to get it out? what bolt do you buys leave last? heres some pics from today. i also found a fleabay logo that im adding to my license plate frame, what do you guys think?

not a bad idea shipping it in a rubbermaid, even though it was destroyed


yes...i have work todo, cleaning this fucken thing.


my rear diff doesnt look any better, but ill clean it to sell, anyone need a 4.10 lsd?


shipping would have been cheaper if the guy would have got some of the dirt off...


almost there, need some help from you guys on which bolt to leave last for ease of removal


and lastly my fleabay 3d logo, on my liscense plate brake, the old logo fell off, this looks better know

[BigD]

I'd do the driveshaft and upper bolts first. That way you can rest the nose of it in the subframe opening and the ass stays up by the rear bushing bolt. Then undo the nut on that, call your helper or get ready, lift 'er up a bit, slide the bolt out, and lower.

Get some coathangers, mangle them up or get some zip ties and suspend your half shafts in a straight line out of the way - bad for the CV joints to hang like that.

[windsor318is]

I'd do the driveshaft and upper bolts first. That way you can rest the nose of it in the subframe opening and the ass stays up by the rear bushing bolt. Then undo the nut on that, call your helper or get ready, lift 'er up a bit, slide the bolt out, and lower.

Get some coathangers, mangle them up or get some zip ties and suspend your half shafts in a straight line out of the way - bad for the CV joints to hang like that.

thanks bigD ya i got some zip ties from work today, i noticed the cv joints where going to get in the way, one of the boots is cracked too.

[longms]

How much you looking to get for that 4.10?????

[windsor318is]

not very much....but i dunno about shipping, you can pick it up if youd like, your not far from me, you can booze it up here in windsor for the night and take it back home!

[windsor318is]

okay its out, easier than i thought with one person and a really good jack

its going to need a new mount this ones destroyed, what do you guys think if i make a solid aluminum one for the new diff, anyone know the diameter, i cant get the old one out to measure, ill make a few if you guys are interested.


came down all by itself


4.10 on the top, 2.93 on the bottom, the rear bolt pattern is a little different but mounts are the same.




and the final product, gotta get new cv joint boots, there all cracked.

[Teaguer]

I would not install a solid alum mount on the diff , that would transmit WAY too much noise into the car .

On the CV boots , you might as well just slap a pair of rebuilt axles on while you are at it .
You can typically get rebuilt axles for around $50 per ....or around double that if you have to go to a chain retail place .

[longms]

How many miles there about are on that 4.1???

[windsor318is]

I would not install a solid alum mount on the diff , that would transmit WAY too much noise into the car .

On the CV boots , you might as well just slap a pair of rebuilt axles on while you are at it .
You can typically get rebuilt axles for around $50 per ....or around double that if you have to go to a chain retail place .

hmmmm maybe ill make a eurthane one then, i didnt think of the noise. where exactly would i find axles for 50 bucks, bav autos prices are redicules.

theres 160,000 miles on the rear diff

[static]

hmmmm maybe ill make a eurthane one then, i didnt think of the noise.

1. you should really think of the noise, as it can be one thing that'll ruin an otherwise ecstatic experience. (ask me how i know)
2. just go with the Z3 Mcoupe diff support bushing. I heard that because of the design a urethan bushing can rip:
notice how the rubber ones have a certain shape metal core and brackets inside the rubber dampener:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2199

The urethan ones i seen don't have any such thing molded into urethane, so the bolt shaft just rips through the urethane

turner motorsport has a similar one to stock but solid rubber (for like $27), or just use the mcoupe one which is supposed to be stronger and stiffer

Peace

[Stu]

hmmmm maybe ill make a eurthane one then, i didnt think of the noise. where exactly would i find axles for 50 bucks, bav autos prices are redicules.

theres 160,000 miles on the rear diff

Windsor,

The Mcoupe diff mount is a good compromise. It's stiffer than the E30 mount, still rubber but has reinforcement ribs in it. I think it's $40 or so at the dealer. Do urethane at the most, the car will be a PITA with metal mounts.

Did you find any urethane tranny mounts yet? :)

[windsor318is]

thanks guys, ill way my options then, stu i wish i wouls have talked to you about the tranny mounts before i purchased them, i think im going to use them for know till i find a better option. ill look into the z3 diff mount, thanks guys i dont want a noisy rocket, unless its from the AA exhaust.

[windsor318is]

more pics, i received my swaybars this week along with e36 obd1 m3 cats, heres some pics

can you tell which is the factory one? cant believe the difference in size.



anyone have any idea how these new endlink come apart, i need to get the eye part off so i can mount the bracket, im a little confused.

i need the center out, but if i undo the bolt, the sphere end is still going to be connected..


and last the cats