https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ en Sun, 16 Aug 2026 16:57:30 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/images/misc/R3V.jpg https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165530-diy-e30-blower-motor-replacement-guide Sun, 16 Aug 2026 05:15:23 GMT
https://www.rtsauto.com/e30-blower-m...ent-diy-guide/]]> E30 FAQ and DIY noid https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165530-diy-e30-blower-motor-replacement-guide https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm Sat, 15 Aug 2026 23:59:13 GMT Just installed a m20b20 (motronic 1.3) that has been rebuilt with all new piston rings and bearings, the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and pressure tested and all new gaskets for the whole engine. Everything built as it is recommended. Fired her up and everything looks and sounds good and healthy. Idles perfectly when engine is cold and with no hesitation to throttle response. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all. Things that has already been changed: CPS TPS ICV (used) AFM (used) Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related Fuel pressure regulator Injectors (used) Fuel filter New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good) All vacuum hoses Blue coolant temperature sensor (the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference) Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road. Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all.
Things that has already been changed:
CPS
TPS
ICV (used)
AFM (used)
Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related
Fuel pressure regulator
Injectors (used)
Fuel filter
New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere
Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good)
All vacuum hoses
Blue coolant temperature sensor
(the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference)

Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road.
Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps.]]> M20 Ra1994gh https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results-knock-limited Sat, 15 Aug 2026 03:06:54 GMT Timing table is the max it wanted to handle without knock. I know AMC head isn't ideal. But my freshly rebuilt 885 had a crack and I just wanted to enjoy this car already hence was like F' IT and bolted AMC head to it. Have new 885 and maybe will drop it off to be machined and bolt it over the winter.
What's your thoughts on this timing and dyno?



]]> M20 zaq123 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results-knock-limited https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165468-how-to-m10-trigger-wheel-installation Fri, 14 Aug 2026 18:45:48 GMT

WELCOME TO THE M10 STANDALONE SERIES, This is Part 3 of my mini series where I go over and modify my M10 to run on a standalone ECU in a stockish E30.

(THE M10 TRIGGER WHEEL INSTALLATION)

Let's begin by going over the tools and parts you will need through out this installation!

You will need:

TOOLS:
1/2 200 FT LBS Torque Wrench.
Standard 2-3 Gear Puller
Big Impact Gun that holds around 400-700 pounds of torque - (Removing 30mm Nut and installing.)
30mm Socket
Needle nose Pliers
Brake Clean And Papertowels.
Brass Punches/Chisels
Dead Blow Hammer
Flathead ScrewDriver.
2X4 Block Of Wood
VW Flywheel Holding Tool/BMW Flywheel Locking Tool - (Locking The Flywheel to install and torque the 30mm Nut)
Large Pry Bar
PB Blaster / Penetrating Oil
Loctite - (30mm Bolt)

PARTS:
Clearance Motor Oil of your choice.
Custom Homemade Trigger Wheel that you will weld onto your stock crank pulley OR Ireland Engineering M10 Trigger Wheel Kit. (NOTE: 02Again sells the bracket for your Ford VR Crank Sensor but they do not sell their trigger wheel kit as of 2019)
BMW Front Crankshaft Main Seal: 11141709629
BMW Crankshaft Woodruff Key: 07119951485
New Shorter V Belt - Example: Napa 25-7330
Energy Drink Or Coffee of your choice.

Optional Tools and parts:

13mm, 19mm, 17mm and 10mm Socket with small impact or 3/8 Ratching Wrench.
Oil Pan Gasket
Upper and Lower Timing Cover Gaskets.
Red RTV Gasket Maker.

Got Everything? Let's Get Started




Start by getting the car in a high gear and pulling up on the E-brake if you have a manual transmission, Make sure you get the engine properly in sync with the cam mark or timing mark itself on the lower timing cover, You will be able to get the crank bolt off with a 30mm socket on the impact but Ideally we will want to pull the inspection cover at the bottom of the engine where the transmission and engine meet up as shown in this picture:


There are 4 13mm nuts, Two short ones and two long ones plus 4 E-Torx bolts that require removal before you pull off the cover. Next you will need to install the flywheel tool (Either the m10 unit or a VW Flywheel one) onto one of the available threaded holes that you took out the torx for, From research and personal shitshow under here, the bolt included for the VW tool might fit or not fit so whichever bolt you can slide into the flywheel tool and then screw it down so the flywheel is locked in place, THEN return yourself to the front of the motor where you will now lube up the nut with your penetrating oil, This shall help you as you remove the crank nut with your 30mm socket and impact gun, you can also use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe here if you don't have a impact gun at your disposal:

https://youtube.com/shorts/TBD54E9dv8A?

The next step is getting that pulley off the engine and then getting the front main seal off the timing cover, you will need to use a 2 or 3 gear jaw puller to carefully extract the pulley.

https://youtube.com/shorts/K5IDlDOFdgY?

After removing the pulley and then wiping everything down, You can do the following as to remove the seal: One: You can screw in a household screw and then wedge the main seal out with the screw in the seal. Two: You can lightly tap the seal inwards and then use a needlenose pliers to extract it. Either way you need to be careful since you can easily nick the cover and then you will have to replace it, Take your time here and ensure that you get it out before you move onto the key.


(AS SHOWN HERE: THE NEEDLENOSE CAN PULL OUT THE SEAL WITH CAREFUL EXTRACTION)
https://youtube.com/shorts/Pu8EaAVHe_c?feature=share

So far you got everything out, Now it's time to see if the woodruff key is savable, If the key is mangled or warped then you will need to extract it with brass punches and a hammer. HOWEVER: Be warned that this key is a prick and will prove itself difficult to remove on the first few go's, I would try to use penetrating lube and plently of smacking on the backside to get the key out, This is where if you need to remove the timing covers and get it out... I'd go ahead and reseal up the covers while you're at it! There are 3 10mm bolts in the oil pan for the cover along with 13mm bolts all around. While you also zip off the 13mm and 10mm nuts, Replace the #15 and #14th nut with two longer ones for the sensor bracket, This will come in handy later but I would recommend giving this a read and then following the picture for removing each bolt in order: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/to...Comment-314385


See this caveman punching out the key in a Pontiac V8? After you replace the key and then carefully snug it in there so it can line up with the new pulley, Go ahead and put on the timing covers again and oil pan with new gaskets/RTV if you decided to replace the key, Otherwise you just need to get the new front main seal in there! Go ahead and use the local part store's clearance motor oil to lube up the timing cover and your seal so you can punch it in there, Worry not that it's a very snug fit, You are going to use a 32mm socket and a hammer to carefully punch in the middle of the seal until it's nice and flush with the cover itself. Once the seal is in? It's time to install the pulley itself... As for installing the Pulley, You are either going to take your homemade pulley or a IE/02again pulley and line it up with the woodruff key slot on the most inner barrel of said pulley before you begin seating it into the crankshaft itself.


HERE: We need to use our 2x4 wooden block and a hammer to seat this guy until it physically reaches it's limit, You can also use the side of the hammer head if you don't have a block for this step, Either way once you seat him into the crankshaft and then you zip the nut back onto the crank pulley so the pulley can be fully seated into the timing cover and crankshaft, You need to take out the nut and then put a good amount of red loctite onto it before you slowly zip it and then change the impact for a torque wrench. Remember when I said that we needed to lock the flywheel? You use the tool or a pry bar in the starter ring gear to lock the flywheel so we can torque this crank nut to 150LB, The Bentley Manual will list the torque spec but I just gave it to you, HA! Anyways once you torque the pulley and then make sure it's properly lined up with the timing mark on the timing cover, You're done for the first part.


SECOND PART: TIMING.

Short and sweet, we are going to install the sensor and bracket plus the v belt but that will be a second post here since I am out of photos.
]]> E30 FAQ and DIY BadDays https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165468-how-to-m10-trigger-wheel-installation https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10165392-no-power-to-fuel-pump-after-removing-the-pump Wed, 12 Aug 2026 02:36:51 GMT
I have been chasing a slow start issue for a bit. My car is a 91 318is with an M50NV swap. It's pretty basic, essentially didn't change anything from the original car except the motor and have been using a PNP harness adapter the whole time. It's been in there for 12 years and has barely given me an issue in the 45K miles I've put on since the swap.

The car would usually take 2-3 decent cranks to start and would then sputter to life and then run perfectly fine. Behaved like it lost fuel pressure every time I turned it off. It's been doing this for a bit and I recently got tired of dealing with it and wanted to find the issue. I replaced a few things like fuel filter, CPS, tried different relay's etc. Whenever I would completely fill the tank the symptoms would usually disappear at first and then reappear once I ran about an 1/8 of tank out of it. I started to wonder if I had a loose line that was letting the fuel pressure bleed once it was turned off so I decided to pull the pump over the weekend.

I pulled the fuel pump fuse to bleed the system before disconnecting the battery and pulling the pump out. I replaced the odd connector from the pump to the metal line with some solid fuel hose and reinstalled. Once I got everything button back up I went to turn it over. The car cranks just fine but the pump wouldn't prime. I rechecked everything, tried again and still nothing. I started digging around with my multi meter and quickly found I had no 12v power at the fuse box for the pump, all other accessories work fine. I tried a different relay, no change. I checked for power at the relay and have 12v at terminal 30 and when I jumped to terminal 87 I have 12v there but still nothing at the fuse. I then pulled the engine/body harness apart and checked pin 13 that should be the wire for the fuel pump and got like 1.2v so something in between the relay and there.

I'm asking because I'm quite stumped as to why this worked perfectly fine before a simple battery disconnect and now is an issue.

Pics for clicks.

My mess tonight
Untitled by Nick Smith, on Flickr

Untitled by Nick Smith, on Flickr

]]> General Technical Nick_S https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10165392-no-power-to-fuel-pump-after-removing-the-pump https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/10165282-zinc-plating-e36-m3-calipers Mon, 10 Aug 2026 02:19:51 GMT Hello Conrads Has anyone zinc plate their calipers? Any tips and first hand experience would be very appreciated.
Has anyone zinc plate their calipers? Any tips and first hand experience would be very appreciated.


]]> e30m3s54turbo https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/10165282-zinc-plating-e36-m3-calipers https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/springs-shocks-sways-steering/10165244-power-steering-pump Sun, 09 Aug 2026 05:55:17 GMT What are people doing for replacing the power steering pump these days on M20 engine? Anyone found refurbed units or is new aftermarket the only option? Did they need to switch to CF11s instead of ATF? presumably you need to swap the steel mounting arms/links over? What are people doing for replacing the power steering pump these days on M20 engine? Anyone found refurbed units or is new aftermarket the only option? Did they need to switch to CF11s instead of ATF? presumably you need to swap the steel mounting arms/links over? digger https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/springs-shocks-sways-steering/10165244-power-steering-pump https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/car-audio-electronics/10165070-oem-bmw-e30-convertible-soundboard-–-installation Thu, 06 Aug 2026 11:34:34 GMT
I'm trying to install an OEM BMW rear soundboard set for my E30 Convertible, but unfortunately I don't have the installation instructions.

I'm mainly trying to figure out how the soundboards are secured.

The attached photo shows a front mounting screw next to the pull handle, but my soundboards don't seem to have anything there for the screw to attach to.

Were these soundboards originally supplied with an additional mounting bracket or support that bolts to the panel? If so, could someone post a photo of it or explain how it is mounted?

I've also attached a photo of the back side of the soundboards.

If anyone has the original BMW installation manual or detailed photos of the mounting hardware, I'd really appreciate your help.



​

Thanks in advance!
​]]> HaberX87 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/car-audio-electronics/10165070-oem-bmw-e30-convertible-soundboard-–-installation https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10165058-which-line-is-the-return-and-which-is-the-output-on-my-early-model-in-tank-pump Thu, 06 Aug 2026 05:37:57 GMT


I figured the larger hose was the output, but I saw a video that said that was the return. Which is it?]]> General Technical rogerscgreg https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10165058-which-line-is-the-return-and-which-is-the-output-on-my-early-model-in-tank-pump https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165041-vibes-the-bad-kind-and-dual-culprits Wed, 05 Aug 2026 22:42:08 GMT alarmed but enough it annoys me. I know balancing a quarter on an M20 is maybe too high an expectation but I'd struggle to imagine it balancing much of anything that was taller than it was wide right now. When not in 4th/not highway speeds it seems to be mostly engine, when in 4th at highway speeds in particular it feels more like a gearbox source thing.

What's been done recently or recently-ish: New motor mounts this spring, fresh transmission mounts (~year old or so), both are rubber. Ignition system is fairly fresh (5yish, cap and leads were replaced), front suspension done this spring, rear is to-do. Transmission was swapped, resealed and given Redline fluid (AT->5spd), new driveshaft, bushings, guibos CSB etc etc. Diff function tested fine. Got recommendation from driveshaft shop to do the motor mounts as that often solves it and it's a new driveshaft that was allegedly tested before shipping. Motor mounts improved it somewhat but in 4th gear I still get notable vibration but 1, 2, 3, 5 all are fine. ICV was given some cleaning out, no difference. Valves were adjusted about 3000 miles ago so I strongly doubt they're the culprit. Sparkplugs are similar age. ECU stomp test returned no error codes (1444 clear). CPS was replaced when I bought the car 5y ago, intake boots were within the past few years as well. Injectors are a bit tired but not so much I think this'd be the cause. I ran some MMO through with a tank of fuel, no change. I've put about 10k on it in the past 5 years, usually 2-ish a year (I don't commute every day but it's my daily), to give you an idea of wear. Mostly in-town but some highway stuff and last spirited autocross was June '24. Blue coolant was flushed like two years ago as well, and is still lookin' fine. I'm slightly overdue on oil timewise but it's only been about 3000mi and I used a full synthetic.

Granted have an exhaust leak at the downpipe to headers flange that I'm going to tackle after some medical hiatus from car working (probably in a couple months) but this vibratory issue predates that having made itself known, it mostly just causes more engine grime and a slightly extended cold start. I intend to resolve that obviously, but when I do, any pointers as to what else to look at? I'm also likely doing my timing belt and water pump and coolant hoses at the same time, later this year ideally, so while I'm monkeying around with the engine... Rebuilt greentops will happen when I get a SSSquid chip. No smoke at tailpipe, no backfiring, oil looked fine when last changed.

Wheels and tires were balanced last year, so it ain't those.]]> M20 Maybe Magpie https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165041-vibes-the-bad-kind-and-dual-culprits https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m10/10164899-low-mpg-on-idle Wed, 05 Aug 2026 00:48:49 GMT is it a bad gauge, or if it is a real issue, how to troubleshoot it?
for reference, i'm getting about 230 miles on a full tank of 91, mostly city.]]> M10 ronle https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m10/10164899-low-mpg-on-idle https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10164892-differential-output-flange-in-and-out-play Tue, 04 Aug 2026 19:27:15 GMT
I can't seem to find specs on the differential, particulary how much in and out play to expect on the output flange.

Appreciate the insight... ]]> tomstin https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10164892-differential-output-flange-in-and-out-play https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10164847-intermittent-split-second-fuel-cutoff-after-replacing-timing-belt Mon, 03 Aug 2026 16:36:28 GMT Thanks!]]> M20 Ian 87 325ic https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10164847-intermittent-split-second-fuel-cutoff-after-replacing-timing-belt https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/springs-shocks-sways-steering/10164823-looking-for-suggestions Sun, 02 Aug 2026 21:57:48 GMT Uber///m3 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/springs-shocks-sways-steering/10164823-looking-for-suggestions https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10164789-timing-belt-noise-repost Sat, 01 Aug 2026 14:52:21 GMT

this is my first post on the forums so I'm hoping somebody might be able to lend a hand , I recently did a timing belt and water pump change on my 320i (we also replaced the spring and guide pin on the tensioner) , now as far as I can tell ever since I had the belt done it has had a whine which appears whenever I rev the engine
at first I thought it was my fan clutch but after removing the accessory belt the noise remained , it sounds like when a viscous fan is on full lock I will link a video of the noise so you can hear it for yourselves , now as far as I know we did the procedure correctly for tensioning the belt ,
we fully compressed the spring on the tensioner , set TDC and fitted the new belt , released the two 13mms and the spring set itself against the tensioner , locked the tensioner down then spun the engine two full rotations then slacked off the tensioner nuts to see if there was any additional movement which there was not , then locked it down again , I did some digging online and some say that the noise will eventually go away , im not sure how true this is but I don't really drive the car much so I don't see that happening on its own]]> M20 Blau320i https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10164789-timing-belt-noise-repost