<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>R3VLimited Forums - E30 Technical Forums</title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2026 12:16:43 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/images/misc/R3V.jpg</url>
			<title>R3VLimited Forums - E30 Technical Forums</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Twin Ear Diff options</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10167524-twin-ear-diff-options</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2026 22:10:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Is there a proven integrated twin ear factory cast diff cover (or billet aftermarket) for a 325i 188 diff ?

or do i need to use one of those separate bolt on billet pieces? if so which is the goto brand?

Can people share their experiences with attaching the mounting brackets to the body and any traps to be aware of?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Is there a proven integrated twin ear factory cast diff cover (or billet aftermarket) for a 325i 188 diff ?<br />
<br />
or do i need to use one of those separate bolt on billet pieces? if so which is the goto brand?<br />
<br />
Can people share their experiences with attaching the mounting brackets to the body and any traps to be aware of?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline"><![CDATA[Transmission &amp; Driveline]]></category>
			<dc:creator>digger</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10167524-twin-ear-diff-options</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>MST TE37 Reps - Bronze on bronze - lip turning green</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/wheels-tires/10167433-mst-te37-reps-bronze-on-bronze-lip-turning-green</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 28 Sep 2026 20:33:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought my car earlier this year with MST TE37 reps, bronze on bronze, and I've never really loved them, but the wheel style grew on me. The bronze lip turning more green was not something that grew on me. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a chip on the lip revealing the aluminum underneath, so after doing some research I decided to strip the bronze clear coat from the lip, sand, polish and ceramic coat. The first wheel was way more work than I expected, even using a chemical paint stripper, but the end result is so much better.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought my car earlier this year with MST TE37 reps, bronze on bronze, and I've never really loved them, but the wheel style grew on me. The bronze lip turning more green was not something that grew on me. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a chip on the lip revealing the aluminum underneath, so after doing some research I decided to strip the bronze clear coat from the lip, sand, polish and ceramic coat. The first wheel was way more work than I expected, even using a chemical paint stripper, but the end result is so much better. <a href="filedata/fetch?id=10167436&amp;d=1790627588" class="bbcode-attachment"  ><img itemprop="image" data-attachmentid="10167436" data-align="none" data-size="medium" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10167436&amp;d=1790627588&amp;type=medium" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3534.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	192.9 KB
ID:	10167436" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10167436&amp;d=1790627588" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10167436&amp;d=1790627588&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /></a> <a href="filedata/fetch?id=10167437&amp;d=1790627599" class="bbcode-attachment"  ><img itemprop="image" data-attachmentid="10167437" data-align="none" data-size="medium" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10167437&amp;d=1790627599&amp;type=medium" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3535.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	221.4 KB
ID:	10167437" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10167437&amp;d=1790627599" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10167437&amp;d=1790627599&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /></a>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/wheels-tires"><![CDATA[Wheels &amp; Tires]]></category>
			<dc:creator>digitalrelay</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/wheels-tires/10167433-mst-te37-reps-bronze-on-bronze-lip-turning-green</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Exhaust diameter, 2x45 or 2x50</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust/10167427-exhaust-diameter-2x45-or-2x50</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 28 Sep 2026 18:57:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>As many people know the standard exhaust system for a 325i m20b25 is 2x45mm.
While this diameter is sufficiënt for a bone stock engine, producing around 175 hp there is a point where it would choke the engine.
Most of the time NA builds with up to around 200 hp will not consider larger diameters, i’ve seen 2.9 stroker builds with around 230 hp running 2x45mm.

I’m now at the point where I have a m20b27 stroker producing 201 hp. The exhaust fitted is a standard 3-piece system in a rough state, so I’m looking to upgrade this one in the near future.
I’m now researching what would be the best option, should I go 2x45 mm or 2x50 mm for this build.
So a full system with equal length headers, probably supersprint full system.
Future upgrades will be a standalone ecu, to het rid of the stock LMM, and CoP or wasted spark.
Cam is a schrick 272, so mild street upgrade, I’d like to keep the torque because it’s a street car.

2x45mm will keep the torque, maybe a bit more and will add around 10 hp I suspect.
2x50mm will probably drop the low end torque bit will add it later in the rev range, I suspect.

Does anyone have an idea what the best option will be, and at what point it is best to switch to a larger diameter exhaust, are we talking around 200 hp, or more in the range of 230 hp?

looking forward to reading your views and experiences.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[As many people know the standard exhaust system for a 325i m20b25 is 2x45mm.<br />
While this diameter is sufficiënt for a bone stock engine, producing around 175 hp there is a point where it would choke the engine.<br />
Most of the time NA builds with up to around 200 hp will not consider larger diameters, i’ve seen 2.9 stroker builds with around 230 hp running 2x45mm.<br />
<br />
I’m now at the point where I have a m20b27 stroker producing 201 hp. The exhaust fitted is a standard 3-piece system in a rough state, so I’m looking to upgrade this one in the near future.<br />
I’m now researching what would be the best option, should I go 2x45 mm or 2x50 mm for this build.<br />
So a full system with equal length headers, probably supersprint full system.<br />
Future upgrades will be a standalone ecu, to het rid of the stock LMM, and CoP or wasted spark.<br />
Cam is a schrick 272, so mild street upgrade, I’d like to keep the torque because it’s a street car.<br />
<br />
2x45mm will keep the torque, maybe a bit more and will add around 10 hp I suspect.<br />
2x50mm will probably drop the low end torque bit will add it later in the rev range, I suspect.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have an idea what the best option will be, and at what point it is best to switch to a larger diameter exhaust, are we talking around 200 hp, or more in the range of 230 hp?<br />
<br />
looking forward to reading your views and experiences.]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust">Exhaust</category>
			<dc:creator>MWe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust/10167427-exhaust-diameter-2x45-or-2x50</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>E46 VANOS Rebuild Options</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/10167381-e46-vanos-rebuild-options</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 20:49:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Seems like tradition.  Attempt to fix one thing, find a worse problem lurking.  Changing the valve cover gasket in the E46, luckily I noticed this at the front of the engine:
[/url]

No idea how long it's been like that, surprised it hasn't grenaded itself with one of the bolts sitting in the bottom of the head and the rest way too close to the upper timing chain.  I was looking at this kit ([URL]https://www.ecstuning.com/b-race-german-parts/race-german-bmw-dual-vanos-rebuild-deluxe-kit/rgdvnsdk~rgm/ (https://flic.kr/p/2sDcqR5)) as well as some replacement hardware and an upper timing chain. Probably adding lower timing chain and all the front case seals while i'm in there.

Is that a good kit for the VANOS rebuild, or should I stick to OEM?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Seems like tradition.  Attempt to fix one thing, find a worse problem lurking.  Changing the valve cover gasket in the E46, luckily I noticed this at the front of the engine:<br />
<a href="https://flic.kr/p/2sDcqR5" target="_blank"><img itemprop="image" class="bbcode-attachment bbcode-attachment--lightbox js-lightbox" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55554908678_4c4fe841c8_b.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
No idea how long it's been like that, surprised it hasn't grenaded itself with one of the bolts sitting in the bottom of the head and the rest way too close to the upper timing chain.  I was looking at this kit (<a href="https://www.ecstuning.com/b-race-german-parts/race-german-bmw-dual-vanos-rebuild-deluxe-kit/rgdvnsdk~rgm/" target="_blank">https://www.ecstuning.com/b-race-ger.../rgdvnsdk~rgm/</a>) as well as some replacement hardware and an upper timing chain. Probably adding lower timing chain and all the front case seals while i'm in there.<br />
<br />
Is that a good kit for the VANOS rebuild, or should I stick to OEM?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps">24V Engine Swaps</category>
			<dc:creator>4bangerfury</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/10167381-e46-vanos-rebuild-options</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Caliper Hose Thread Repair</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/10167354-caliper-hose-thread-repair</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2026 17:35:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a set of calipers that are in perfect condition with one exception, when the hoses are installed they thread in loosely and will not tighten enough to create a seal. The threads are there but not up to the task of holding the hose tight, when approaching they start turning instead of tightening.

I am sure I accidentally diminished the thread teeth while cleaning rust with vinegar. The vinegar didn't cause harm anywhere else (bore and bleeder threads are perfect) but I guess the hose threads got a bit eaten. Lesson learned the hard way, I will sandblast after masking from now on.

Since the threads are there I am not sure which method of thread repair to try. I want to make clear that while the threads look intact by eye, the brake hose fitting wiggles around until the end when it holds a little pressure before beginning loosening.

Does this sound like I could have luck with a thread repair bit? I have never used one and I understand they are different from taps, which I have used plenty of. My brain can't see how loose/diminished threads could be made whole again with this method. 

I have had some luck with helicoils before but never used one on a hose thread. I have not used timeserts and in this application I am unsure they would work. Timeserts might prevent the brake hose from going deep enough in caliper to mate with the caliper flare area.

I did a full cleaning, epoxy paint job and rebuild on these before realizing the hose threads were no good. If I can I want to salvage them instead of getting new ones. 

What do you think?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a set of calipers that are in perfect condition with one exception, when the hoses are installed they thread in loosely and will not tighten enough to create a seal. The threads are there but not up to the task of holding the hose tight, when approaching they start turning instead of tightening.<br />
<br />
I am sure I accidentally diminished the thread teeth while cleaning rust with vinegar. The vinegar didn't cause harm anywhere else (bore and bleeder threads are perfect) but I guess the hose threads got a bit eaten. Lesson learned the hard way, I will sandblast after masking from now on.<br />
<br />
Since the threads are there I am not sure which method of thread repair to try. I want to make clear that while the threads look intact by eye, the brake hose fitting wiggles around until the end when it holds a little pressure before beginning loosening.<br />
<br />
Does this sound like I could have luck with a thread repair bit? I have never used one and I understand they are different from taps, which I have used plenty of. My brain can't see how loose/diminished threads could be made whole again with this method. <br />
<br />
I have had some luck with helicoils before but never used one on a hose thread. I have not used timeserts and in this application I am unsure they would work. Timeserts might prevent the brake hose from going deep enough in caliper to mate with the caliper flare area.<br />
<br />
I did a full cleaning, epoxy paint job and rebuild on these before realizing the hose threads were no good. If I can I want to salvage them instead of getting new ones. <br />
<br />
What do you think?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms"><![CDATA[Brakes, Subframe &amp; Arms]]></category>
			<dc:creator>88Sedan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/10167354-caliper-hose-thread-repair</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>325IX Steering rack reseal/rebuild</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/325ix-technical-and-discussion/10167306-325ix-steering-rack-reseal-rebuild</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2026 00:59:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Been having a decent size leak from the driver side of my steering rack. Have been trying to find information on resealing it and every site says something different. Some say the normal reseal kit will be fine but I know the racks themselves are different so was looking to see whether or not someone on here has already done it and what they found. Also, I saw another forum where someone said they had a leak that sounds similar to mine and when they took it apart to reseal it was pretty much toast. Not sure if anyone else has dealt with something similar but any info would be appreciated.</description>
			<content:encoded>Been having a decent size leak from the driver side of my steering rack. Have been trying to find information on resealing it and every site says something different. Some say the normal reseal kit will be fine but I know the racks themselves are different so was looking to see whether or not someone on here has already done it and what they found. Also, I saw another forum where someone said they had a leak that sounds similar to mine and when they took it apart to reseal it was pretty much toast. Not sure if anyone else has dealt with something similar but any info would be appreciated. </content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/325ix-technical-and-discussion">325iX Technical and Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>325ix_STI</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/325ix-technical-and-discussion/10167306-325ix-steering-rack-reseal-rebuild</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M20 885 valve guide suppliers/sizes</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10167127-m20-885-valve-guide-suppliers-sizes</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2026 08:42:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The company that is meant to be working on my 885 head say they can't find replacement valve guides. 

I see they are no longer available from BMW.

Bimmerheads do them https://bimmerheads.com/products/m20-st-guides with 13.25 mm OD.

VAC do them https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-high-performance-valve-guide-bmw-m20-p1659.aspx with a choice of sizes.

ECStuning seem to do two sizes https://www.ecstuning.com/b-canyon-engine-parts/valve-guide/11121267676~cae/

Where do you usually get guides from, and how can Bimmerheads only sell one size? Which is 0.25mm oversize going by RealOEM https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1111-EUR-09-1987-E30-BMW-325i&amp;diagId=11_4377]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[The company that is meant to be working on my 885 head say they can't find replacement valve guides. <br />
<br />
I see they are no longer available from BMW.<br />
<br />
Bimmerheads do them <a href="https://bimmerheads.com/products/m20-st-guides" target="_blank">https://bimmerheads.com/products/m20-st-guides</a> with 13.25 mm OD.<br />
<br />
VAC do them <a href="https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-high-performance-valve-guide-bmw-m20-p1659.aspx" target="_blank">https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...m20-p1659.aspx</a> with a choice of sizes.<br />
<br />
ECStuning seem to do two sizes <a href="https://www.ecstuning.com/b-canyon-engine-parts/valve-guide/11121267676~cae/" target="_blank">https://www.ecstuning.com/b-canyon-e...121267676~cae/</a><br />
<br />
Where do you usually get guides from, and how can Bimmerheads only sell one size? Which is 0.25mm oversize going by RealOEM <a href="https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1111-EUR-09-1987-E30-BMW-325i&amp;diagId=11_4377" target="_blank">https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4377</a>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>14thirty</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10167127-m20-885-valve-guide-suppliers-sizes</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M20 fine tuning the fueling</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166925-m20-fine-tuning-the-fueling</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2026 11:41:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok so the car runs beautifully considering it has ITBs. Haltech Nexus S2 runs semi-sequential injection, stock cam driven ignition setup with stock coil ( for that authentic 80s look). Starts, drives, idles like a stock car.
The only issue I've been having - it was a little jumpy after the deceleration fuel cut aka overrun and the moment you go back on the throttle. My logs showed it was getting a little rich after the overrun


For those of you who use overrun or logged stock Motronic for educational reasons, what your AFR is doing right after the overrun? Do you see it goes from super lean/all air during the overrun (as it should) to momentary rich spike for a bit and then back on target? Do you see it's going from all lean to the target afr without a rich spike? I found out what my issue was and corrected it: basically I had post decel enrichment setup to wet runner walls as it all gets dried out during the overrun and at the same time I had too short of the delay for STFT (short term fuel trim) so it was dumping fuel too early, trying to correct normal lean conditions out of decel cut. I have STFT all figured out and pushing STFT post decel delay further into more meaningful AFR event when it's closer to target. So that took care of the issue of the overfueling.

My question is about fuel enrichment setting and what is better for the engine. Should I got from decel super lean event back to target AFR or should I let it go a little rich before AFR levels off?
It's an open loop event, STFT is out of the picture and not correcting anything yet in this event. Basically enrichment event right after the throttle is applied again and I can dial in how much I want that enrichment.
What's your thoughts, theoretically speaking...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ok so the car runs beautifully considering it has ITBs. Haltech Nexus S2 runs semi-sequential injection, stock cam driven ignition setup with stock coil ( for that authentic 80s look). Starts, drives, idles like a stock car.<br />
The only issue I've been having - it was a little jumpy after the deceleration fuel cut aka overrun and the moment you go back on the throttle. My logs showed it was getting a little rich after the overrun<br />
<br />
<br />
For those of you who use overrun or logged stock Motronic for educational reasons, what your AFR is doing right after the overrun? Do you see it goes from super lean/all air during the overrun (as it should) to momentary rich spike for a bit and then back on target? Do you see it's going from all lean to the target afr without a rich spike? I found out what my issue was and corrected it: basically I had post decel enrichment setup to wet runner walls as it all gets dried out during the overrun and at the same time I had too short of the delay for STFT (short term fuel trim) so it was dumping fuel too early, trying to correct normal lean conditions out of decel cut. I have STFT all figured out and pushing STFT post decel delay further into more meaningful AFR event when it's closer to target. So that took care of the issue of the overfueling.<br />
<br />
My question is about fuel enrichment setting and what is better for the engine. Should I got from decel super lean event back to target AFR or should I let it go a little rich before AFR levels off?<br />
It's an open loop event, STFT is out of the picture and not correcting anything yet in this event. Basically enrichment event right after the throttle is applied again and I can dial in how much I want that enrichment.<br />
What's your thoughts, theoretically speaking...<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166925-m20-fine-tuning-the-fueling</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Front engine lift hook install question</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166805-front-engine-lift-hook-install-question</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2026 13:24:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.

My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).

Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.

A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.

Insights welcomed!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.<br />
<br />
My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).<br />
<br />
Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.<br />
<br />
A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.<br />
<br />
Insights welcomed!    ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Boris3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166805-front-engine-lift-hook-install-question</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rear Bumper Install Tips - Late Model</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint/10166642-rear-bumper-install-tips-late-model</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 19:19:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought a new rear bumper for my '91 and I for the life of me can NOT get it to fit properly. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting it to fit correctly? I can't seem to get the sides of the bumper to connect to the side bracket without issues. So if anyone has tips that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought a new rear bumper for my '91 and I for the life of me can NOT get it to fit properly. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting it to fit correctly? I can't seem to get the sides of the bumper to connect to the side bracket without issues. So if anyone has tips that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint"><![CDATA[Body &amp; Paint]]></category>
			<dc:creator>MasterD78</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint/10166642-rear-bumper-install-tips-late-model</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M20 with 284/272 idle afr</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166594-m20-with-284-272-idle-afr</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:35:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166594-m20-with-284-272-idle-afr</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dyno strapping points</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10166478-dyno-strapping-points</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2026 11:44:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Where do you guys strap e30 for the chassis dyno run?

 The last time I had it on the dyno, tunner did front wheels but the rear he was talking about taking the muffler off. Luckily we didn't have to do it and he strapped at the rear subframe. Was a pain sort of and took awhile to find good points as the rear control arms were on the way a little. Left control arm paint got scratched a little from the hook after the run,  which isn't a big deal but still. 

Are those towing tie down brackets that go between rear shock and the control arm good enough to hold the car down? What do you guys normally do?

garagistic steel tow tie downs]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Where do you guys strap e30 for the chassis dyno run?<br />
<br />
 The last time I had it on the dyno, tunner did front wheels but the rear he was talking about taking the muffler off. Luckily we didn't have to do it and he strapped at the rear subframe. Was a pain sort of and took awhile to find good points as the rear control arms were on the way a little. Left control arm paint got scratched a little from the hook after the run,  which isn't a big deal but still. <br />
<br />
Are those towing tie down brackets that go between rear shock and the control arm good enough to hold the car down? What do you guys normally do?<br />
<br />
garagistic steel tow tie downs <br />
<br />
<img itemprop="image" title="K0112-PRDRear-BMW-Tie-Down-Strap-Hook-E30-E36-E46-Tow-Hooks-Yes-Powdercoat-Red-Garagistic-bmw-e30-e36-e46-e92-grip-race-drift-3.png" data-attachmentid="10166479" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10166479&amp;d=1788781178" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	K0112-PRDRear-BMW-Tie-Down-Strap-Hook-E30-E36-E46-Tow-Hooks-Yes-Powdercoat-Red-Garagistic-bmw-e30-e36-e46-e92-grip-race-drift-3.png
Views:	108
Size:	124.0 KB
ID:	10166479" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166479&amp;d=1788781178" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166479&amp;d=1788781178&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="K0112-PRDRear-BMW-Tie-Down-Strap-Hook-E30-E36-E46-Tow-Hooks-Yes-Powdercoat-Red-Garagistic-bmw-e30-e36-e46-e92-grip-race-drift-3.png" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" />]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10166478-dyno-strapping-points</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Why the interior door handles break</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/interior/10166435-why-the-interior-door-handles-break</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2026 22:34:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We know the plastic interior handles aren't the strongest but if you're careful they should last decades. Recently, I had one break on my 323i...I already had a spare so I swapped it out. In doing so, I discovered the grommet was missing on the new handle. The old one remained on the rod but disintegrated when I tried to move it. Just to get it back together I installed the handle without the grommet and as you can imagine there was noticeable play, meaning that the handle was loose and needed to be pulled farther to open the door. Anyway, I ordered a new grommet and handle to keep as a spare. When I installed the new grommet the play decreased but there was still a little left. That's when I noticed the other end of the rod that attaches to the door latch also had a grommet that was completely gone. Without these grommets the rod slides within the eyelets before it catches. This is the play in the door handle that will cause you overextend it and put more stress on the housing where the handle pivots. Installing the grommets back where they belong tightens everything up and hopefully keeps you from breaking the handle.

522082389999




The top/left one attaches to the door handle.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[We know the plastic interior handles aren't the strongest but if you're careful they should last decades. Recently, I had one break on my 323i...I already had a spare so I swapped it out. In doing so, I discovered the grommet was missing on the new handle. The old one remained on the rod but disintegrated when I tried to move it. Just to get it back together I installed the handle without the grommet and as you can imagine there was noticeable play, meaning that the handle was loose and needed to be pulled farther to open the door. Anyway, I ordered a new grommet and handle to keep as a spare. When I installed the new grommet the play decreased but there was still a little left. That's when I noticed the other end of the rod that attaches to the door latch also had a grommet that was completely gone. Without these grommets the rod slides within the eyelets before it catches. This is the play in the door handle that will cause you overextend it and put more stress on the housing where the handle pivots. Installing the grommets back where they belong tightens everything up and hopefully keeps you from breaking the handle.<br />
<br />
522082389999<br />
<br />
<img itemprop="image" alt="Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	137.0 KB ID:	10166436" title="image.png" data-attachmentid="10166436" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10166436&amp;d=1788646288" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166436&amp;d=1788646288" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166436&amp;d=1788646288&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="image.png" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /><br />
<br />
<br />
The top/left one attaches to the door handle.<br />
<img itemprop="image" alt="Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	174.6 KB ID:	10166437" title="image.png" data-attachmentid="10166437" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10166437&amp;d=1788646689" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166437&amp;d=1788646689" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166437&amp;d=1788646689&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="image.png" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" />]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/interior">Interior</category>
			<dc:creator>reelizmpro</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/interior/10166435-why-the-interior-door-handles-break</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Plug identification for crank position sensor/spark plug leads under diagnostic port?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10166389-plug-identification-for-crank-position-sensor-spark-plug-leads-under-diagnostic-port</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2026 00:56:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[As per photo, I didn't label the wires on the engine well enough when removing, I believe these two plugs are the two under the diagnostic port, one comes from the spark plug leads and the other from the crank position sensor. Is there a way to figure out which plugs into which? I can't see any of the wire colours to cross reference wiring diagrams as it's all insulated pretty good. What happens if these sensors are switched/plugged into the wrong one?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[As per photo, I didn't label the wires on the engine well enough when removing, I believe these two plugs are the two under the diagnostic port, one comes from the spark plug leads and the other from the crank position sensor. Is there a way to figure out which plugs into which? I can't see any of the wire colours to cross reference wiring diagrams as it's all insulated pretty good. What happens if these sensors are switched/plugged into the wrong one?<br />
<br />
<img itemprop="image" alt="Click image for larger version  Name:	crankposplug.jpg Views:	5 Size:	231.0 KB ID:	10166390" data-attachmentid="10166390" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10166390&amp;d=1788569644" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166390&amp;d=1788569644" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10166390&amp;d=1788569644&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" />]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>zinc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10166389-plug-identification-for-crank-position-sensor-spark-plug-leads-under-diagnostic-port</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>HELP: E30 Touring C-Pillar Base Rust Repair</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint/10166253-help-e30-touring-c-pillar-base-rust-repair</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2026 16:25:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Area depicted in photo is where the C-pillar base meets the quarter panel shoulder (rear driver side) on an E30 Touring.

Is it possible to access the other side of this rust hole? I'd like to clean this area out from the other side and weld the hole with the aid of a copper backing plate.

Any tips on access would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Area depicted in photo is where the C-pillar base meets the quarter panel shoulder (rear driver side) on an E30 Touring.<br />
<br />
Is it possible to access the other side of this rust hole? I'd like to clean this area out from the other side and weld the hole with the aid of a copper backing plate.<br />
<br />
Any tips on access would be greatly appreciated.<br />
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint"><![CDATA[Body &amp; Paint]]></category>
			<dc:creator>arrestedthread</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/appearance-cosmetic/body-paint/10166253-help-e30-touring-c-pillar-base-rust-repair</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
