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		<title>R3VLimited Forums - General Technical</title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[If it doesn't fit in any of the forums below, put it here.]]></description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 01 Jun 2026 21:15:30 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>R3VLimited Forums - General Technical</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
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			<title>Diff clucking on take off</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161863-diff-clucking-on-take-off</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jun 2026 09:51:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I have this really slight metallic clenching noise on the driver's side. Sounds almost like axle shaft splines are hitting splines in the hub on take off (common VW problem) but it is not. It appears that the clunk comes from the differential ourput flange. And not from the rotational motion but from moving the flange in and out (thrust load, not rotational load). I did replace sealed on the axle and that was about it. What exactly is making that clunk? It's louder on the drivers side and more muffled on the passenger side. Basically pull on the flange with in/out motion and you will hear what I'm talking about. Any ideas? IIt is LSD diff from very low mileage Z3 but it doesn't sound like M-clunk to me]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I have this really slight metallic clenching noise on the driver's side. Sounds almost like axle shaft splines are hitting splines in the hub on take off (common VW problem) but it is not. It appears that the clunk comes from the differential ourput flange. And not from the rotational motion but from moving the flange in and out (thrust load, not rotational load). I did replace sealed on the axle and that was about it. What exactly is making that clunk? It's louder on the drivers side and more muffled on the passenger side. Basically pull on the flange with in/out motion and you will hear what I'm talking about. Any ideas? IIt is LSD diff from very low mileage Z3 but it doesn't sound like M-clunk to me]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161863-diff-clucking-on-take-off</guid>
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			<title>How to properly delete the plastic fuel expansion tank lines?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161523-how-to-properly-delete-the-plastic-fuel-expansion-tank-lines</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2026 23:09:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

So I had to replace the thicker braided line that goes from the gas tank to the evap tank in the right rear tire well.

While doing so, the only way I could get that thicker hose through the conduit was to remove the 2 smaller plastic lines that also connect to the evap tank.
I've tried so many different ways of trying to fish all 3 through, but it's just not happening (unless anyone has some ideas...) and so I saw some old posts about deleting the evap tank as a whole and connecting the two lines at the top of the gas tank but it wasn't exactly clear to me exactly how and what to block off, vent, etc.

What I want to achieve is keeping the thicker braided line but delete the smaller plastic lines as I just can't get those fished through so if anyone has suggestions on that, I would appreciate it!


At the gas tank:
- Connection to large braided line --&gt; goes to T
- connection to smaller plastic line --&gt; goes to smaller line on expansion tank
- connection to larger plastic line --&gt; goes to larger line on expansion tank

at the expansion tank:
- connection to smaller plastic line
- connection to large plastic line
- connection to T

at the filler:
- connection to T (with larger part connecting to braided and smaller connecting to expansion tank)

What do I cap, loop, vent to get rid of these stupid plastic lines ?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
<br />
So I had to replace the thicker braided line that goes from the gas tank to the evap tank in the right rear tire well.<br />
<br />
While doing so, the only way I could get that thicker hose through the conduit was to remove the 2 smaller plastic lines that also connect to the evap tank.<br />
I've tried so many different ways of trying to fish all 3 through, but it's just not happening (unless anyone has some ideas...) and so I saw some old posts about deleting the evap tank as a whole and connecting the two lines at the top of the gas tank but it wasn't exactly clear to me exactly how and what to block off, vent, etc.<br />
<br />
What I want to achieve is keeping the thicker braided line but delete the smaller plastic lines as I just can't get those fished through so if anyone has suggestions on that, I would appreciate it!<br />
<br />
<br />
At the gas tank:<br />
- Connection to large braided line --&gt; goes to T<br />
- connection to smaller plastic line --&gt; goes to smaller line on expansion tank<br />
- connection to larger plastic line --&gt; goes to larger line on expansion tank<br />
<br />
at the expansion tank:<br />
- connection to smaller plastic line<br />
- connection to large plastic line<br />
- connection to T<br />
<br />
at the filler:<br />
- connection to T (with larger part connecting to braided and smaller connecting to expansion tank)<br />
<br />
What do I cap, loop, vent to get rid of these stupid plastic lines ?<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>eight-0-eight</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161523-how-to-properly-delete-the-plastic-fuel-expansion-tank-lines</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Clutch Master &amp;amp; Slave Help Needed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161233-clutch-master-slave-help-needed</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 18 May 2026 09:04:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi,  First post here and appreciate your help.

I'm a new E30 owner.  Clutch slowly developed the following problem:  It wouldn't go into any gear while running.  With the engine off, I could run through all the gears, so unlikely it's linkage.  If I start the car while it's in gear, with the clutch still in the car rolls slightly, so the clutch is not fully disengaging. 

I bled the system and it resumed normal function for around 30 minutes of driving, then the same problem returned.  Some previous posts here suggested the slave cylinder as the culprit so I replaced that, re-bled the system, and same thing happened:  shifted fine for around 30 minutes and now doesn't.

Could the master cylinder be the cause of this?  There is no fluid on the interior carpet.

If not the master cylinder, what else could be causing air to get into the system?

Thanks in advance!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi,  First post here and appreciate your help.<br />
<br />
I'm a new E30 owner.  Clutch slowly developed the following problem:  It wouldn't go into any gear while running.  With the engine off, I could run through all the gears, so unlikely it's linkage.  If I start the car while it's in gear, with the clutch still in the car rolls slightly, so the clutch is not fully disengaging. <br />
<br />
I bled the system and it resumed normal function for around 30 minutes of driving, then the same problem returned.  Some previous posts here suggested the slave cylinder as the culprit so I replaced that, re-bled the system, and same thing happened:  shifted fine for around 30 minutes and now doesn't.<br />
<br />
Could the master cylinder be the cause of this?  There is no fluid on the interior carpet.<br />
<br />
If not the master cylinder, what else could be causing air to get into the system?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>srider</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161233-clutch-master-slave-help-needed</guid>
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			<title>Steering wheel won’t unlock</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161028-steering-wheel-won’t-unlock</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 14:38:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My steering wheel will NOT unlock. No amount of jiggling helps. 
tried two different keys. Lubed the lock. Tapped with a mallet. Nothing. 
has anyone experienced this before? What are my options???
thank you!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My steering wheel will NOT unlock. No amount of jiggling helps. <br />
tried two different keys. Lubed the lock. Tapped with a mallet. Nothing. <br />
has anyone experienced this before? What are my options???<br />
thank you!]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Imsuperawesome</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161028-steering-wheel-won’t-unlock</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>E30 M3 speedometer went dead</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10160914-e30-m3-speedometer-went-dead</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2026 15:03:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My 88 E30 M3 speedometer was intermittent but now dead. The odometers work and so does the cruise control. Does anyone know where I can find the schematic circuit diagram for the speedometer indicator module? I have found diagrams for the cluster wiring but not what is inside the indicator. Thanks!</description>
			<content:encoded>My 88 E30 M3 speedometer was intermittent but now dead. The odometers work and so does the cruise control. Does anyone know where I can find the schematic circuit diagram for the speedometer indicator module? I have found diagrams for the cluster wiring but not what is inside the indicator. Thanks!</content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Del Schier</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10160914-e30-m3-speedometer-went-dead</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fixing dodgy wiring options</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10160878-fixing-dodgy-wiring-options</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 20:51:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently got a 1989 325i with a stock M20B25 and ECU etc, build date is 7/1988.

I took a quick peak at the wiring under my dash and it's a horrendous mess of aftermarket alarms etc hacked in. Not even sure where to start so I'm just pretending I didn't see it for now.

Engine bay is also a mess but main issue is many of the plugs themselves have disintegrated in addition to the random unknown wires that don't connect to anything. Fuse box has also seen better days and the AC fuse melted pretty bad and appeared to have some random copper strips jammed in to make a good connection which I've fixed up and re-melted back into being servicable shape.

That said it does (or did before I took it apart) run fine despite the 37 years of people messing with the wiring.

Half considering the nuclear option of trying to rewire everything from scratch so at least I'd know what everything is, but that'd also mean it'd be off the road forever.

Original harnesses are NLA right so what are the options: 
 Get a donor OE junkyard harnesses in semi-decent condition (not easy to find the correct year I guess), take the plugs + sections needed and repair or replace existing harness, methodically go through and figure out what is junk somehow
 Wire from scratch, maybe with aftermarket ECU, presume that would mean full engine/dash out
 Cross reference with official wiring diagrams, remove anything non-standard, patch it up as best as possible and accept it as it is, if it works and isn't broke, don't mess with it too much
 I want to learn more about wiring but at the same time would like to drive this thing in the near future.

Will be option 3 and pretending I didn't see it for the foreseeable till I get some engine bits done but at the same time knowing it's a mess is going to annoy me and will need to be fixed eventually.

If you can just get replacement plugs somehow that would help to patch up the existing loom and maybe will replace the fuse box. Can you get replacement plugs anywhere or is anyone making aftermarket looms for stock i.e. non-engine swapped motors?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently got a 1989 325i with a stock M20B25 and ECU etc, build date is 7/1988.<br />
<br />
I took a quick peak at the wiring under my dash and it's a horrendous mess of aftermarket alarms etc hacked in. Not even sure where to start so I'm just pretending I didn't see it for now.<br />
<br />
Engine bay is also a mess but main issue is many of the plugs themselves have disintegrated in addition to the random unknown wires that don't connect to anything. Fuse box has also seen better days and the AC fuse melted pretty bad and appeared to have some random copper strips jammed in to make a good connection which I've fixed up and re-melted back into being servicable shape.<br />
<br />
That said it does (or did before I took it apart) run fine despite the 37 years of people messing with the wiring.<br />
<br />
Half considering the nuclear option of trying to rewire everything from scratch so at least I'd know what everything is, but that'd also mean it'd be off the road forever.<br />
<br />
Original harnesses are NLA right so what are the options:<ol class="decimal"><li>Get a donor OE junkyard harnesses in semi-decent condition (not easy to find the correct year I guess), take the plugs + sections needed and repair or replace existing harness, methodically go through and figure out what is junk somehow</li>
<li>Wire from scratch, maybe with aftermarket ECU, presume that would mean full engine/dash out</li>
<li>Cross reference with official wiring diagrams, remove anything non-standard, patch it up as best as possible and accept it as it is, if it works and isn't broke, don't mess with it too much</li>
</ol>I want to learn more about wiring but at the same time would like to drive this thing in the near future.<br />
<br />
Will be option 3 and pretending I didn't see it for the foreseeable till I get some engine bits done but at the same time knowing it's a mess is going to annoy me and will need to be fixed eventually.<br />
<br />
If you can just get replacement plugs somehow that would help to patch up the existing loom and maybe will replace the fuse box. Can you get replacement plugs anywhere or is anyone making aftermarket looms for stock i.e. non-engine swapped motors?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>zinc</dc:creator>
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