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		<title><![CDATA[R3VLimited Forums - Engine &amp; Drivetrain]]></title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
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			<title><![CDATA[R3VLimited Forums - Engine &amp; Drivetrain]]></title>
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			<title>M20 fine tuning the fueling</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166925-m20-fine-tuning-the-fueling</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2026 11:41:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok so the car runs beautifully considering it has ITBs. Haltech Nexus S2 runs semi-sequential injection, stock cam driven ignition setup with stock coil ( for that authentic 80s look). Starts, drives, idles like a stock car.
The only issue I've been having - it was a little jumpy after the deceleration fuel cut aka overrun and the moment you go back on the throttle. My logs showed it was getting a little rich after the overrun


For those of you who use overrun or logged stock Motronic for educational reasons, what your AFR is doing right after the overrun? Do you see it goes from super lean/all air during the overrun (as it should) to momentary rich spike for a bit and then back on target? Do you see it's going from all lean to the target afr without a rich spike? I found out what my issue was and corrected it: basically I had post decel enrichment setup to wet runner walls as it all gets dried out during the overrun and at the same time I had too short of the delay for STFT (short term fuel trim) so it was dumping fuel too early, trying to correct normal lean conditions out of decel cut. I have STFT all figured out and pushing STFT post decel delay further into more meaningful AFR event when it's closer to target. So that took care of the issue of the overfueling.

My question is about fuel enrichment setting and what is better for the engine. Should I got from decel super lean event back to target AFR or should I let it go a little rich before AFR levels off?
It's an open loop event, STFT is out of the picture and not correcting anything yet in this event. Basically enrichment event right after the throttle is applied again and I can dial in how much I want that enrichment.
What's your thoughts, theoretically speaking...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ok so the car runs beautifully considering it has ITBs. Haltech Nexus S2 runs semi-sequential injection, stock cam driven ignition setup with stock coil ( for that authentic 80s look). Starts, drives, idles like a stock car.<br />
The only issue I've been having - it was a little jumpy after the deceleration fuel cut aka overrun and the moment you go back on the throttle. My logs showed it was getting a little rich after the overrun<br />
<br />
<br />
For those of you who use overrun or logged stock Motronic for educational reasons, what your AFR is doing right after the overrun? Do you see it goes from super lean/all air during the overrun (as it should) to momentary rich spike for a bit and then back on target? Do you see it's going from all lean to the target afr without a rich spike? I found out what my issue was and corrected it: basically I had post decel enrichment setup to wet runner walls as it all gets dried out during the overrun and at the same time I had too short of the delay for STFT (short term fuel trim) so it was dumping fuel too early, trying to correct normal lean conditions out of decel cut. I have STFT all figured out and pushing STFT post decel delay further into more meaningful AFR event when it's closer to target. So that took care of the issue of the overfueling.<br />
<br />
My question is about fuel enrichment setting and what is better for the engine. Should I got from decel super lean event back to target AFR or should I let it go a little rich before AFR levels off?<br />
It's an open loop event, STFT is out of the picture and not correcting anything yet in this event. Basically enrichment event right after the throttle is applied again and I can dial in how much I want that enrichment.<br />
What's your thoughts, theoretically speaking...<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166925-m20-fine-tuning-the-fueling</guid>
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			<title>Front engine lift hook install question</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166805-front-engine-lift-hook-install-question</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2026 13:24:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.

My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).

Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.

A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.

Insights welcomed!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.<br />
<br />
My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).<br />
<br />
Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.<br />
<br />
A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.<br />
<br />
Insights welcomed!    ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Boris3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166805-front-engine-lift-hook-install-question</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M20 with 284/272 idle afr</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166594-m20-with-284-272-idle-afr</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:35:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166594-m20-with-284-272-idle-afr</guid>
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			<title>Low Oil pressure when hot</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166153-low-oil-pressure-when-hot</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Aug 2026 13:55:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So after engine rebuild M20B20 from 87-89, new piston ring set, new bearing set for both rod and main bearings (brand Kolbenschmidt Standard sizes), the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and parts that needed changed was changed. Before starting the engine I primed the oil pump manually untill I flushed out the air. However after first startup everything good with 10w-40 oil and new Bosch oil filter. When the oil gets hot the oil pressure lamp will turn on at idle. When you rev it it turns off and pressure rises.
I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max.
I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition.
I am not sure what to do next now?
Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess?
I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So after engine rebuild M20B20 from 87-89, new piston ring set, new bearing set for both rod and main bearings (brand Kolbenschmidt Standard sizes), the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and parts that needed changed was changed. Before starting the engine I primed the oil pump manually untill I flushed out the air. However after first startup everything good with 10w-40 oil and new Bosch oil filter. When the oil gets hot the oil pressure lamp will turn on at idle. When you rev it it turns off and pressure rises.<br />
I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max.<br />
I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition.<br />
I am not sure what to do next now?<br />
Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess?<br />
I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Ra1994gh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166153-low-oil-pressure-when-hot</guid>
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			<title>89 325ix awd v2 turbo</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/forced-induction/10166043-89-325ix-awd-v2-turbo</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2026 01:46:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey all,
thought I’d post about my build and see if I can get some tips and tricks kinda thing or help anybody else out along the way.
i have a 1989 bmw 325ix that I just recently fit a CX racing v2 turbo kit to it. 
current setup is:
schrick 272 cam
stock bottom end
42lb injectors
CX racing v2 turbo kit
61mm gt35
megasquirt pnp3 gen2

im currently at the stage of everything running without bumpers fitted. Test driving and tuning on the road and making small adjustments here and there. I’m by no means good at tuning and if anyone has any pointers I’m open to listening!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey all,<br />
thought I’d post about my build and see if I can get some tips and tricks kinda thing or help anybody else out along the way.<br />
i have a 1989 bmw 325ix that I just recently fit a CX racing v2 turbo kit to it. <br />
current setup is:<br />
schrick 272 cam<br />
stock bottom end<br />
42lb injectors<br />
CX racing v2 turbo kit<br />
61mm gt35<br />
megasquirt pnp3 gen2<br />
<br />
im currently at the stage of everything running without bumpers fitted. Test driving and tuning on the road and making small adjustments here and there. I’m by no means good at tuning and if anyone has any pointers I’m open to listening!<br />
<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/forced-induction">Forced Induction</category>
			<dc:creator>Rollinge30</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/forced-induction/10166043-89-325ix-awd-v2-turbo</guid>
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