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		<title>R3VLimited Forums - M20</title>
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			<title>R3VLimited Forums - M20</title>
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		<item>
			<title>M20 oil prime after an oil change</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158824-m20-oil-prime-after-an-oil-change</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Apr 2026 12:55:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How many of your prime your engine after the oil change ? I've noticed it's like 1-2 sec after a startup and before any reading on the pressure gauge. I'm thinking if I should enable &quot;flood clrear&quot;  mode on Haltech for this. Basically, cranking with the gas pedal to the floor (100% on TPS) cuts off fuel injectors.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[How many of your prime your engine after the oil change ? I've noticed it's like 1-2 sec after a startup and before any reading on the pressure gauge. I'm thinking if I should enable &quot;flood clrear&quot;  mode on Haltech for this. Basically, cranking with the gas pedal to the floor (100% on TPS) cuts off fuel injectors. ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158824-m20-oil-prime-after-an-oil-change</guid>
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			<title>Intermittent ignition cutting</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158686-intermittent-ignition-cutting</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Apr 2026 21:21:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok so for transparency, this is not my car, im a tech and was given this basket case of a car. A previous tech has done a bunch of work on it and I dont know everything, or if the car originally came in with this issue, or if it presented itself later. 

But the meat of it is that the car will cut its ignition during acceleration for a split second. Seems to mainly do it when cold, and gradually get better as you drive the car. Issue happens most commonly between 1k-3k rpm, so just normal acceleration from stops. Its so bad that it will just faceplant on itself when it happens, then go on like normal.

Sometimes, the car will throw faults for fuel pump, and for space relay. But that doesnt happen often. No lights illuminate when this happens. At one point I had the launch scan tool hooked up to the car, watching actual values and when it happened the scanner lost communication with the DME. 

There have been numerous things replaced since the issue presented itself, some for this issue, some for general maintenance. For brevity ill just make a list of parts, and skip the story. 

-ekp relay
-DME relay
-fuel pump
-DME/EKP relay holder and harness
-crank sensor
-coolant temp sensor
-throttle position sensor
-idle air control valve
-fuel pump connector pins and further wiring repairs for the pump
-battery
-distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
-ignition switch with attached harness
-DME swapped with a used unit
-MAF unit swapped with used unit 

I know its really a bad look to just be slinging parts and asking forums but between whats been done already and the couple things ive done, all the bases are covered. My brain does keep coming back to the mass air flow meter, it is possible the &quot;new&quot; one is bad as well, but in the exact same way seems unlikely. Im just at a bit of a loss here, and im more of a mercedes and porsche guy, im very far from familiar with e30s. In fact this is the very first one ive worked on. 

And input would be appreciated, this is the second inherited headache ive gotten from my job and eliminating one would be wonderful.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ok so for transparency, this is not my car, im a tech and was given this basket case of a car. A previous tech has done a bunch of work on it and I dont know everything, or if the car originally came in with this issue, or if it presented itself later. <br />
<br />
But the meat of it is that the car will cut its ignition during acceleration for a split second. Seems to mainly do it when cold, and gradually get better as you drive the car. Issue happens most commonly between 1k-3k rpm, so just normal acceleration from stops. Its so bad that it will just faceplant on itself when it happens, then go on like normal.<br />
<br />
Sometimes, the car will throw faults for fuel pump, and for space relay. But that doesnt happen often. No lights illuminate when this happens. At one point I had the launch scan tool hooked up to the car, watching actual values and when it happened the scanner lost communication with the DME. <br />
<br />
There have been numerous things replaced since the issue presented itself, some for this issue, some for general maintenance. For brevity ill just make a list of parts, and skip the story. <br />
<br />
-ekp relay<br />
-DME relay<br />
-fuel pump<br />
-DME/EKP relay holder and harness<br />
-crank sensor<br />
-coolant temp sensor<br />
-throttle position sensor<br />
-idle air control valve<br />
-fuel pump connector pins and further wiring repairs for the pump<br />
-battery<br />
-distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.<br />
-ignition switch with attached harness<br />
-DME swapped with a used unit<br />
-MAF unit swapped with used unit <br />
<br />
I know its really a bad look to just be slinging parts and asking forums but between whats been done already and the couple things ive done, all the bases are covered. My brain does keep coming back to the mass air flow meter, it is possible the &quot;new&quot; one is bad as well, but in the exact same way seems unlikely. Im just at a bit of a loss here, and im more of a mercedes and porsche guy, im very far from familiar with e30s. In fact this is the very first one ive worked on. <br />
<br />
And input would be appreciated, this is the second inherited headache ive gotten from my job and eliminating one would be wonderful. ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>tiny2ner</dc:creator>
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			<title>M20b25 Main Bearing Questions</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158602-m20b25-main-bearing-questions</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Apr 2026 02:12:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, I need some advice on my engine. I decided to check it over as I purchased it installed in a half finished track car I picked up a couple months ago. The previous owner said a &quot;shop&quot; worked on it and said it was good but after seeing some of the other work this reputable &quot;shop&quot; had done on the car I figured I'd check it over since I already had the engine out.

I pulled and checked the main bearings and they seem a bit worn to me but I don't really have a point of reference. I have included pictures of the two worst bearings below, all of the other ones are either as worn or less worn.

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My current thinking is that these bearings are worn enough to warrant replacement and that the rod bearings (which I have not checked yet) can be assumed to be in similar shape and should also be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? Also is there a way to check if the crank is okay without taking it to a machine shop? I can't see any obvious abnormal wear on it so far so I'm hoping I can just put new bearings in and call it good.

Additionally when the previous owner had the &quot;shop&quot; put the engine together he had a Bimmer Heads head put on. This was done with new head bolts and presumably a new headgasket. I am 99% certain that the engine has never ran since it was put together so does anyone know if I can reuse either? I know the head bolts are torque to yield but I don't know if a heat cycle has to occur for them to actually stretch. I suppose better safe than sorry but wanted to get an opinion anyways.

Finally, any additional advice or resources would be most appreciated as this is my first time assembling an engine​

Thanks!
-Your Friendly Neighborhood (not) Fed]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello all, I need some advice on my engine. I decided to check it over as I purchased it installed in a half finished track car I picked up a couple months ago. The previous owner said a &quot;shop&quot; worked on it and said it was good but after seeing some of the other work this reputable &quot;shop&quot; had done on the car I figured I'd check it over since I already had the engine out.<br />
<br />
I pulled and checked the main bearings and they seem a bit worn to me but I don't really have a point of reference. I have included pictures of the two worst bearings below, all of the other ones are either as worn or less worn.<br />
<br />
<img itemprop="image" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==" alt="" data-fullsize-url="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==" data-thumb-url="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /><br />
<img itemprop="image" title="20260330_195051.jpg" data-attachmentid="10158607" width="298" height="396" data-align="none" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10158607&amp;d=1775007968" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	20260330_195051.jpg
Views:	154
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ID:	10158607" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10158607&amp;d=1775007968" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10158607&amp;d=1775007968&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="20260330_195051.jpg" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /><img itemprop="image" data-align="none" data-size="full" border="0" src="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==" alt="" data-fullsize-url="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==" data-thumb-url="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /><br />
<img itemprop="image" title="20260330_194530.jpg" data-attachmentid="10158608" width="299" height="399" data-align="none" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10158608&amp;d=1775007989" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	20260330_194530.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	240.7 KB
ID:	10158608" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10158608&amp;d=1775007989" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10158608&amp;d=1775007989&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="20260330_194530.jpg" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" /><br />
<br />
My current thinking is that these bearings are worn enough to warrant replacement and that the rod bearings (which I have not checked yet) can be assumed to be in similar shape and should also be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? Also is there a way to check if the crank is okay without taking it to a machine shop? I can't see any obvious abnormal wear on it so far so I'm hoping I can just put new bearings in and call it good.<br />
<br />
Additionally when the previous owner had the &quot;shop&quot; put the engine together he had a Bimmer Heads head put on. This was done with new head bolts and presumably a new headgasket. I am 99% certain that the engine has never ran since it was put together so does anyone know if I can reuse either? I know the head bolts are torque to yield but I don't know if a heat cycle has to occur for them to actually stretch. I suppose better safe than sorry but wanted to get an opinion anyways.<br />
<br />
Finally, any additional advice or resources would be most appreciated as this is my first time assembling an engine​<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
-Your Friendly Neighborhood (not) Fed]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Not a Fed</dc:creator>
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			<title>M20 fan clutch (defective from the box?)</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158463-m20-fan-clutch-defective-from-the-box</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2026 01:39:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need help to figure out what's happening with my overheating issue. New built, coolant was vacuum bled so I don't think air pockets is the issue, I think...
45F outside temperature. When driving, coolant is around 190-195F, middle position of the gauge.  When stopped, it climbes to 207F-210 based on my ECU (about between middle and the next line on the gauge). I'm yet to let it got past 210F so I'm not sure where it would actually stop. Temp. goes back to normal when the car is in motion. 
My first clutch was new Sach , manuf. date 2018. When engine was hot, I was able to stop it with a piece of cardboard and could hold it with my hand after that.  Figured bad clutch. Maybe was stored in the wrong position?  I saw a little oil around the pin,  where the thermoplate is. Ok, replaced it with new Meyle (china made these days). No signs of oil. The same overheating issues. And I'm able to stop the clutch with the cardboard and hold it with my hand just like Sach.

Two bad clutched out of the box?? What's your thoughts.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I need help to figure out what's happening with my overheating issue. New built, coolant was vacuum bled so I don't think air pockets is the issue, I think...<br />
45F outside temperature. When driving, coolant is around 190-195F, middle position of the gauge.  When stopped, it climbes to 207F-210 based on my ECU (about between middle and the next line on the gauge). I'm yet to let it got past 210F so I'm not sure where it would actually stop. Temp. goes back to normal when the car is in motion. <br />
My first clutch was new Sach , manuf. date 2018. When engine was hot, I was able to stop it with a piece of cardboard and could hold it with my hand after that.  Figured bad clutch. Maybe was stored in the wrong position?  I saw a little oil around the pin,  where the thermoplate is. Ok, replaced it with new Meyle (china made these days). No signs of oil. The same overheating issues. And I'm able to stop the clutch with the cardboard and hold it with my hand just like Sach.<br />
<br />
Two bad clutched out of the box?? What's your thoughts. ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10158463-m20-fan-clutch-defective-from-the-box</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Shim at M20 flywheel - how thick?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10157841-shim-at-m20-flywheel-how-thick</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 18:23:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello,
I have two shims (probably part number 11221262827).  It fits between the flywheel and the 8 bolts going into the crankshaft.   I have a ton of parts and ended up with 2 shims.  One is  2.75mm thick and the other is 6mm thick.  My engine is the 2.5L 1987.  Which shim is correct???  Chuck</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello,<br />
I have two shims (probably part number <b>11221262827).  It fits between the flywheel and the 8 bolts going into the crankshaft.   I have a ton of parts and ended up with 2 shims.  One is  2.75mm thick and the other is 6mm thick.  My engine is the 2.5L 1987.  Which shim is correct???  Chuck</b><br />
<br />
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Chuck-Michigan-e30</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10157841-shim-at-m20-flywheel-how-thick</guid>
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