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		<title>R3VLimited Forums - M20</title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
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		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2026 15:58:13 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>R3VLimited Forums - M20</title>
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			<title>Front engine lift hook install question</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166805-front-engine-lift-hook-install-question</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2026 13:24:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.

My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).

Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.

A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.

Insights welcomed!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well, it turns out that I am missing the front engine lift hook on my m20 (1990 325i). From some other threads here, this might explain the uneven rotor-distributor cap wear I am seeing and some possible rhythmic rotational rubbing noises (&quot;shick shick shick&quot;) I have been trying to track down. I went ahead and ordered a used lift hook off of Ebay which should arrive in a few days.<br />
<br />
My question is how much do I have to remove in order to have the room to install it? Most DIYs on the upper timing case cover a full removal as part of a timing belt and water pump replacement. I had a shop do that two years ago (not sure if they left off the hook for some reason?? or if it was missing prior...don't remember).<br />
<br />
Anyway, if I want to just install the lift hook is there enough room to pull the upper timing cover away from the block just enough to insert and get the lift hook over the locating dowels on the block if I just remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust shield and the two upper timing case bolts? Or are there other things I need to remove (e.g., belts, water pulley, hoses, etc.) to get enough access.<br />
<br />
A related while I'm in there question does the black plastic dust shield behind the rotor have anything that holds it in place in the upper timing case aside from the distributor cap once installed? I see no o-ring on Real OEM. Just curious.<br />
<br />
Insights welcomed!    ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Boris3</dc:creator>
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			<title>M20 with 284/272 idle afr</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166594-m20-with-284-272-idle-afr</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:35:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Do you guys think that cam has big enough overlap where idle will improve with 13.8 base afr at idle? My idle isn't super bad but I want steadier considering its at 900 rpm already. Would it makes sense to lower AFR to 13.8 in case the cam lets some fresh air into the exhaust?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
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			<title>Low Oil pressure when hot</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166153-low-oil-pressure-when-hot</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Aug 2026 13:55:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So after engine rebuild M20B20 from 87-89, new piston ring set, new bearing set for both rod and main bearings (brand Kolbenschmidt Standard sizes), the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and parts that needed changed was changed. Before starting the engine I primed the oil pump manually untill I flushed out the air. However after first startup everything good with 10w-40 oil and new Bosch oil filter. When the oil gets hot the oil pressure lamp will turn on at idle. When you rev it it turns off and pressure rises.
I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max.
I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition.
I am not sure what to do next now?
Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess?
I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So after engine rebuild M20B20 from 87-89, new piston ring set, new bearing set for both rod and main bearings (brand Kolbenschmidt Standard sizes), the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and parts that needed changed was changed. Before starting the engine I primed the oil pump manually untill I flushed out the air. However after first startup everything good with 10w-40 oil and new Bosch oil filter. When the oil gets hot the oil pressure lamp will turn on at idle. When you rev it it turns off and pressure rises.<br />
I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max.<br />
I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition.<br />
I am not sure what to do next now?<br />
Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess?<br />
I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Ra1994gh</dc:creator>
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