https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ R3VLimited Forums en Sun, 16 Aug 2026 07:07:46 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/images/misc/R3V.jpg https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165530-diy-e30-blower-motor-replacement-guide Sun, 16 Aug 2026 05:15:23 GMT
https://www.rtsauto.com/e30-blower-m...ent-diy-guide/]]> E30 FAQ and DIY noid https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165530-diy-e30-blower-motor-replacement-guide https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165516-painting-rocker-panels-and-bottom-of-rear-valance Sun, 16 Aug 2026 02:29:01 GMT
Thanks for the help!


]]> General Discussion AlpinweissE30 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165516-painting-rocker-panels-and-bottom-of-rear-valance https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm Sat, 15 Aug 2026 23:59:13 GMT Just installed a m20b20 (motronic 1.3) that has been rebuilt with all new piston rings and bearings, the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and pressure tested and all new gaskets for the whole engine. Everything built as it is recommended. Fired her up and everything looks and sounds good and healthy. Idles perfectly when engine is cold and with no hesitation to throttle response. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all. Things that has already been changed: CPS TPS ICV (used) AFM (used) Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related Fuel pressure regulator Injectors (used) Fuel filter New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good) All vacuum hoses Blue coolant temperature sensor (the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference) Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road. Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all.
Things that has already been changed:
CPS
TPS
ICV (used)
AFM (used)
Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related
Fuel pressure regulator
Injectors (used)
Fuel filter
New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere
Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good)
All vacuum hoses
Blue coolant temperature sensor
(the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference)

Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road.
Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps.]]> M20 Ra1994gh https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/parts-for-sale/10165493-minty-e30-airbag-been-in-my-closet-for-20-years-225 Sat, 15 Aug 2026 03:35:18 GMT
$225 OBO - Seattle WA



]]> Parts For Sale george graves https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/parts-for-sale/10165493-minty-e30-airbag-been-in-my-closet-for-20-years-225 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results-knock-limited Sat, 15 Aug 2026 03:06:54 GMT Timing table is the max it wanted to handle without knock. I know AMC head isn't ideal. But my freshly rebuilt 885 had a crack and I just wanted to enjoy this car already hence was like F' IT and bolted AMC head to it. Have new 885 and maybe will drop it off to be machined and bolt it over the winter.
What's your thoughts on this timing and dyno?



]]> M20 zaq123 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results-knock-limited https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/parts-for-sale/10165477-e-30-head-gasket-kit-valve-cover-gasket Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:00:55 GMT Thanks.]]> Parts For Sale dnguyen1963 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/parts-for-sale/10165477-e-30-head-gasket-kit-valve-cover-gasket https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165468-how-to-m10-trigger-wheel-installation Fri, 14 Aug 2026 18:45:48 GMT

WELCOME TO THE M10 STANDALONE SERIES, This is Part 3 of my mini series where I go over and modify my M10 to run on a standalone ECU in a stockish E30.

(THE M10 TRIGGER WHEEL INSTALLATION)

Let's begin by going over the tools and parts you will need through out this installation!

You will need:

TOOLS:
1/2 200 FT LBS Torque Wrench.
Standard 2-3 Gear Puller
Big Impact Gun that holds around 400-700 pounds of torque - (Removing 30mm Nut and installing.)
30mm Socket
Needle nose Pliers
Brake Clean And Papertowels.
Brass Punches/Chisels
Dead Blow Hammer
Flathead ScrewDriver.
2X4 Block Of Wood
VW Flywheel Holding Tool/BMW Flywheel Locking Tool - (Locking The Flywheel to install and torque the 30mm Nut)
Large Pry Bar
PB Blaster / Penetrating Oil
Loctite - (30mm Bolt)

PARTS:
Clearance Motor Oil of your choice.
Custom Homemade Trigger Wheel that you will weld onto your stock crank pulley OR Ireland Engineering M10 Trigger Wheel Kit. (NOTE: 02Again sells the bracket for your Ford VR Crank Sensor but they do not sell their trigger wheel kit as of 2019)
BMW Front Crankshaft Main Seal: 11141709629
BMW Crankshaft Woodruff Key: 07119951485
New Shorter V Belt - Example: Napa 25-7330
Energy Drink Or Coffee of your choice.

Optional Tools and parts:

13mm, 19mm, 17mm and 10mm Socket with small impact or 3/8 Ratching Wrench.
Oil Pan Gasket
Upper and Lower Timing Cover Gaskets.
Red RTV Gasket Maker.

Got Everything? Let's Get Started




Start by getting the car in a high gear and pulling up on the E-brake if you have a manual transmission, Make sure you get the engine properly in sync with the cam mark or timing mark itself on the lower timing cover, You will be able to get the crank bolt off with a 30mm socket on the impact but Ideally we will want to pull the inspection cover at the bottom of the engine where the transmission and engine meet up as shown in this picture:


There are 4 13mm nuts, Two short ones and two long ones plus 4 E-Torx bolts that require removal before you pull off the cover. Next you will need to install the flywheel tool (Either the m10 unit or a VW Flywheel one) onto one of the available threaded holes that you took out the torx for, From research and personal shitshow under here, the bolt included for the VW tool might fit or not fit so whichever bolt you can slide into the flywheel tool and then screw it down so the flywheel is locked in place, THEN return yourself to the front of the motor where you will now lube up the nut with your penetrating oil, This shall help you as you remove the crank nut with your 30mm socket and impact gun, you can also use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe here if you don't have a impact gun at your disposal:

https://youtube.com/shorts/TBD54E9dv8A?

The next step is getting that pulley off the engine and then getting the front main seal off the timing cover, you will need to use a 2 or 3 gear jaw puller to carefully extract the pulley.

https://youtube.com/shorts/K5IDlDOFdgY?

After removing the pulley and then wiping everything down, You can do the following as to remove the seal: One: You can screw in a household screw and then wedge the main seal out with the screw in the seal. Two: You can lightly tap the seal inwards and then use a needlenose pliers to extract it. Either way you need to be careful since you can easily nick the cover and then you will have to replace it, Take your time here and ensure that you get it out before you move onto the key.


(AS SHOWN HERE: THE NEEDLENOSE CAN PULL OUT THE SEAL WITH CAREFUL EXTRACTION)
https://youtube.com/shorts/Pu8EaAVHe_c?feature=share

So far you got everything out, Now it's time to see if the woodruff key is savable, If the key is mangled or warped then you will need to extract it with brass punches and a hammer. HOWEVER: Be warned that this key is a prick and will prove itself difficult to remove on the first few go's, I would try to use penetrating lube and plently of smacking on the backside to get the key out, This is where if you need to remove the timing covers and get it out... I'd go ahead and reseal up the covers while you're at it! There are 3 10mm bolts in the oil pan for the cover along with 13mm bolts all around. While you also zip off the 13mm and 10mm nuts, Replace the #15 and #14th nut with two longer ones for the sensor bracket, This will come in handy later but I would recommend giving this a read and then following the picture for removing each bolt in order: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/to...Comment-314385


See this caveman punching out the key in a Pontiac V8? After you replace the key and then carefully snug it in there so it can line up with the new pulley, Go ahead and put on the timing covers again and oil pan with new gaskets/RTV if you decided to replace the key, Otherwise you just need to get the new front main seal in there! Go ahead and use the local part store's clearance motor oil to lube up the timing cover and your seal so you can punch it in there, Worry not that it's a very snug fit, You are going to use a 32mm socket and a hammer to carefully punch in the middle of the seal until it's nice and flush with the cover itself. Once the seal is in? It's time to install the pulley itself... As for installing the Pulley, You are either going to take your homemade pulley or a IE/02again pulley and line it up with the woodruff key slot on the most inner barrel of said pulley before you begin seating it into the crankshaft itself.


HERE: We need to use our 2x4 wooden block and a hammer to seat this guy until it physically reaches it's limit, You can also use the side of the hammer head if you don't have a block for this step, Either way once you seat him into the crankshaft and then you zip the nut back onto the crank pulley so the pulley can be fully seated into the timing cover and crankshaft, You need to take out the nut and then put a good amount of red loctite onto it before you slowly zip it and then change the impact for a torque wrench. Remember when I said that we needed to lock the flywheel? You use the tool or a pry bar in the starter ring gear to lock the flywheel so we can torque this crank nut to 150LB, The Bentley Manual will list the torque spec but I just gave it to you, HA! Anyways once you torque the pulley and then make sure it's properly lined up with the timing mark on the timing cover, You're done for the first part.


SECOND PART: TIMING.

Short and sweet, we are going to install the sensor and bracket plus the v belt but that will be a second post here since I am out of photos.
]]> E30 FAQ and DIY BadDays https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/10165468-how-to-m10-trigger-wheel-installation https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165465-help-alignment-troubles Fri, 14 Aug 2026 16:47:03 GMT Hello ! So recently i’ve been attempting to get my E30 aligned properly as the car does not self steer back to center and appears to be ‘crab walking’ when driving in a straight line. modifications : Front: E36 BC Coilovers / Knuckles, GAS (FAPO) E30/36/46 angle kit, E46 Purple Tag Rack Rear: E30 BC Coilovers, Poly trailing arm bushings , Poly subframe riser bushings, Normal Poly Diff Bushing (not raised) 5 Lug Conversion, Toe / Camber Eccentrics Method : A combination of Toe plates and string alignment. the string is measured from axel / wheel bearing nut on each corer and adjusted so that the string is equal distance from each front and rear independently. when these numbers match, i’m confident the string is parallel to the frame. Questions: 1) when pulling back steering rack boots, i’ve verified that rack is centered among itself (inner shaft same distance from outer rack housing on both sides) , but when i zero out the toe i am clearly seeing a difference in exposed thread on the outer tie rods. a. is this okay ? and b. why is this? is the rack not centered among the chassis? i am fairly certain that caster (lollipops) and camber(tophats) is the same on each side. 1) in the rear, i have zero toe in reference to the strings (parallel to car) but i believe the rear thrust may be off. crude measurements show a slight difference in measurement from wheel to front of rear arch. i believe this to be the cause of my ‘crab walk’ issue. is there any way to correct this? Car has a clean title and does not appear to have pickups damaged also. Thank you in advance ! Hello ! So recently i’ve been attempting to get my E30 aligned properly as the car does not self steer back to center and appears to be ‘crab walking’ when driving in a straight line.

modifications :

Front: E36 BC Coilovers / Knuckles, GAS (FAPO) E30/36/46 angle kit, E46 Purple Tag Rack

Rear: E30 BC Coilovers, Poly trailing arm bushings , Poly subframe riser bushings, Normal Poly Diff Bushing (not raised) 5 Lug Conversion, Toe / Camber Eccentrics

Method : A combination of Toe plates and string alignment. the string is measured from axel / wheel bearing nut on each corer and adjusted so that the string is equal distance from each front and rear independently. when these numbers match, i’m confident the string is parallel to the frame.

Questions:

1) when pulling back steering rack boots, i’ve verified that rack is centered among itself (inner shaft same distance from outer rack housing on both sides) , but when i zero out the toe i am clearly seeing a difference in exposed thread on the outer tie rods. a. is this okay ? and b. why is this? is the rack not centered among the chassis? i am fairly certain that caster (lollipops) and camber(tophats) is the same on each side.

1) in the rear, i have zero toe in reference to the strings (parallel to car) but i believe the rear thrust may be off. crude measurements show a slight difference in measurement from wheel to front of rear arch. i believe this to be the cause of my ‘crab walk’ issue. is there any way to correct this?

Car has a clean title and does not appear to have pickups damaged also.

Thank you in advance !]]> General Discussion crstibr https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165465-help-alignment-troubles https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165464-help-alignment-troubles Fri, 14 Aug 2026 16:46:34 GMT Hello ! So recently i’ve been attempting to get my E30 aligned properly as the car does not self steer back to center and appears to be ‘crab walking’ when driving in a straight line. modifications : Front: E36 BC Coilovers / Knuckles, GAS (FAPO) E30/36/46 angle kit, E46 Purple Tag Rack Rear: E30 BC Coilovers, Poly trailing arm bushings , Poly subframe riser bushings, Normal Poly Diff Bushing (not raised) 5 Lug Conversion, Toe / Camber Eccentrics Method : A combination of Toe plates and string alignment. the string is measured from axel / wheel bearing nut on each corer and adjusted so that the string is equal distance from each front and rear independently. when these numbers match, i’m confident the string is parallel to the frame. Questions: 1) when pulling back steering rack boots, i’ve verified that rack is centered among itself (inner shaft same distance from outer rack housing on both sides) , but when i zero out the toe i am clearly seeing a difference in exposed thread on the outer tie rods. a. is this okay ? and b. why is this? is the rack not centered among the chassis? i am fairly certain that caster (lollipops) and camber(tophats) is the same on each side. 1) in the rear, i have zero toe in reference to the strings (parallel to car) but i believe the rear thrust may be off. crude measurements show a slight difference in measurement from wheel to front of rear arch. i believe this to be the cause of my ‘crab walk’ issue. is there any way to correct this? Car has a clean title and does not appear to have pickups damaged also. Thank you in advance ! Hello ! So recently i’ve been attempting to get my E30 aligned properly as the car does not self steer back to center and appears to be ‘crab walking’ when driving in a straight line.

modifications :

Front: E36 BC Coilovers / Knuckles, GAS (FAPO) E30/36/46 angle kit, E46 Purple Tag Rack

Rear: E30 BC Coilovers, Poly trailing arm bushings , Poly subframe riser bushings, Normal Poly Diff Bushing (not raised) 5 Lug Conversion, Toe / Camber Eccentrics

Method : A combination of Toe plates and string alignment. the string is measured from axel / wheel bearing nut on each corer and adjusted so that the string is equal distance from each front and rear independently. when these numbers match, i’m confident the string is parallel to the frame.

Questions:

1) when pulling back steering rack boots, i’ve verified that rack is centered among itself (inner shaft same distance from outer rack housing on both sides) , but when i zero out the toe i am clearly seeing a difference in exposed thread on the outer tie rods. a. is this okay ? and b. why is this? is the rack not centered among the chassis? i am fairly certain that caster (lollipops) and camber(tophats) is the same on each side.

1) in the rear, i have zero toe in reference to the strings (parallel to car) but i believe the rear thrust may be off. crude measurements show a slight difference in measurement from wheel to front of rear arch. i believe this to be the cause of my ‘crab walk’ issue. is there any way to correct this?

Car has a clean title and does not appear to have pickups damaged also.

Thank you in advance !
]]> General Discussion crstibr https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/general-discussion/10165464-help-alignment-troubles