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		<title>R3VLimited Forums - General Technical</title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[If it doesn't fit in any of the forums below, put it here.]]></description>
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			<title>R3VLimited Forums - General Technical</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
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			<title>Trailing Arm/ Rear Subframe Reinforcement Question</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10162455-trailing-arm-rear-subframe-reinforcement-question</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 17:40:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[With regard to trailing arm/ subframe reinforcement I understand what the pieces welded in are supposed to do with one exception. Specifically I am wondering about the pieces that triangulate the subframe where the trailing arm bushings mount.

I would have thought some flexibility in those tabs is a design feature so that it tightens up onto the bushing sleeve properly during torquing. Does that part of the rear subframe ever even get damaged outside of accidents?

Essentially my concern is that after these pieces are welded in that it would no longer properly squeeze the bushing. I am NOT adding toe/camber adjustment because for my desired ride height it really isn't worth the hassle/expense. I would also have to drive far for an alignment shop that would agree to deal with that.

I am building my car so that the chassis is ready if I ever 24V swap it. I already reinforced the front subframe and the rear is torn apart now for full rebuild.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[With regard to trailing arm/ subframe reinforcement I understand what the pieces welded in are supposed to do with one exception. Specifically I am wondering about the pieces that triangulate the subframe where the trailing arm bushings mount.<br />
<br />
I would have thought some flexibility in those tabs is a design feature so that it tightens up onto the bushing sleeve properly during torquing. Does that part of the rear subframe ever even get damaged outside of accidents?<br />
<br />
Essentially my concern is that after these pieces are welded in that it would no longer properly squeeze the bushing. I am NOT adding toe/camber adjustment because for my desired ride height it really isn't worth the hassle/expense. I would also have to drive far for an alignment shop that would agree to deal with that.<br />
<br />
I am building my car so that the chassis is ready if I ever 24V swap it. I already reinforced the front subframe and the rear is torn apart now for full rebuild.]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>88Sedan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10162455-trailing-arm-rear-subframe-reinforcement-question</guid>
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			<title>De-pinning relay plugs</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10162197-de-pinning-relay-plugs</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2026 20:16:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Need to replace a socket on my car's engine bay because the clips for putting it on the bracket are busted, got a pigtail from a parts stash a guy I know has and I'm trying to de-pin it so I can replace the one on the car without splicing. Followed the instructions on the package of the tool, I can see the damn tabs and protrusions and I'm doing my damndest to get the little terminals out of there but I cannot for the life of me get them to pop out. Is there a trick to doing these that I'm missing like an idiot, in terms of technique? I've tried different angles, putting more force on the tabs vs more force on the terminal u-shaped protrusions, attempting from the back and front, using a pair of tweezers to compress the opposite side, and nothing. Youtube wasn't much help, it was either different connectors or you can't frickin' see anything. Thing is it says to push from the plug/outside end and &quot;slip past&quot; which I attempt to do, but they just will not go past no matter what angles or pressures or directions I'm trying. Maddening.



Any tips?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Need to replace a socket on my car's engine bay because the clips for putting it on the bracket are busted, got a pigtail from a parts stash a guy I know has and I'm trying to de-pin it so I can replace the one on the car without splicing. Followed the instructions on the package of the tool, I can see the damn tabs and protrusions and I'm doing my damndest to get the little terminals out of there but I cannot for the life of me get them to pop out. Is there a trick to doing these that I'm missing like an idiot, in terms of technique? I've tried different angles, putting more force on the tabs vs more force on the terminal u-shaped protrusions, attempting from the back and front, using a pair of tweezers to compress the opposite side, and nothing. Youtube wasn't much help, it was either different connectors or you can't frickin' see anything. Thing is it says to push from the plug/outside end and &quot;slip past&quot; which I attempt to do, but they just will not go past no matter what angles or pressures or directions I'm trying. Maddening.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Any tips?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Maybe Magpie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10162197-de-pinning-relay-plugs</guid>
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			<title>Diff clucking on take off</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161863-diff-clucking-on-take-off</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jun 2026 09:51:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I have this really slight metallic clenching noise on the driver's side. Sounds almost like axle shaft splines are hitting splines in the hub on take off (common VW problem) but it is not. It appears that the clunk comes from the differential ourput flange. And not from the rotational motion but from moving the flange in and out (thrust load, not rotational load). I did replace sealed on the axle and that was about it. What exactly is making that clunk? It's louder on the drivers side and more muffled on the passenger side. Basically pull on the flange with in/out motion and you will hear what I'm talking about. Any ideas? IIt is LSD diff from very low mileage Z3 but it doesn't sound like M-clunk to me]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I have this really slight metallic clenching noise on the driver's side. Sounds almost like axle shaft splines are hitting splines in the hub on take off (common VW problem) but it is not. It appears that the clunk comes from the differential ourput flange. And not from the rotational motion but from moving the flange in and out (thrust load, not rotational load). I did replace sealed on the axle and that was about it. What exactly is making that clunk? It's louder on the drivers side and more muffled on the passenger side. Basically pull on the flange with in/out motion and you will hear what I'm talking about. Any ideas? IIt is LSD diff from very low mileage Z3 but it doesn't sound like M-clunk to me]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161863-diff-clucking-on-take-off</guid>
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			<title>How to properly delete the plastic fuel expansion tank lines?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161523-how-to-properly-delete-the-plastic-fuel-expansion-tank-lines</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2026 23:09:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

So I had to replace the thicker braided line that goes from the gas tank to the evap tank in the right rear tire well.

While doing so, the only way I could get that thicker hose through the conduit was to remove the 2 smaller plastic lines that also connect to the evap tank.
I've tried so many different ways of trying to fish all 3 through, but it's just not happening (unless anyone has some ideas...) and so I saw some old posts about deleting the evap tank as a whole and connecting the two lines at the top of the gas tank but it wasn't exactly clear to me exactly how and what to block off, vent, etc.

What I want to achieve is keeping the thicker braided line but delete the smaller plastic lines as I just can't get those fished through so if anyone has suggestions on that, I would appreciate it!


At the gas tank:
- Connection to large braided line --&gt; goes to T
- connection to smaller plastic line --&gt; goes to smaller line on expansion tank
- connection to larger plastic line --&gt; goes to larger line on expansion tank

at the expansion tank:
- connection to smaller plastic line
- connection to large plastic line
- connection to T

at the filler:
- connection to T (with larger part connecting to braided and smaller connecting to expansion tank)

What do I cap, loop, vent to get rid of these stupid plastic lines ?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
<br />
So I had to replace the thicker braided line that goes from the gas tank to the evap tank in the right rear tire well.<br />
<br />
While doing so, the only way I could get that thicker hose through the conduit was to remove the 2 smaller plastic lines that also connect to the evap tank.<br />
I've tried so many different ways of trying to fish all 3 through, but it's just not happening (unless anyone has some ideas...) and so I saw some old posts about deleting the evap tank as a whole and connecting the two lines at the top of the gas tank but it wasn't exactly clear to me exactly how and what to block off, vent, etc.<br />
<br />
What I want to achieve is keeping the thicker braided line but delete the smaller plastic lines as I just can't get those fished through so if anyone has suggestions on that, I would appreciate it!<br />
<br />
<br />
At the gas tank:<br />
- Connection to large braided line --&gt; goes to T<br />
- connection to smaller plastic line --&gt; goes to smaller line on expansion tank<br />
- connection to larger plastic line --&gt; goes to larger line on expansion tank<br />
<br />
at the expansion tank:<br />
- connection to smaller plastic line<br />
- connection to large plastic line<br />
- connection to T<br />
<br />
at the filler:<br />
- connection to T (with larger part connecting to braided and smaller connecting to expansion tank)<br />
<br />
What do I cap, loop, vent to get rid of these stupid plastic lines ?<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical">General Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>eight-0-eight</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/10161523-how-to-properly-delete-the-plastic-fuel-expansion-tank-lines</guid>
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