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		<title><![CDATA[R3VLimited Forums - Engine &amp; Drivetrain]]></title>
		<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 22:46:08 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[R3VLimited Forums - Engine &amp; Drivetrain]]></title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Any feedback on new SS cat backs from China?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust/10160867-any-feedback-on-new-ss-cat-backs-from-china</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 12:48:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, any recent installs or opinions on these chinese mufflers?  They were all over ebay for a while, my stock muffler has an annoying rattle probably from a rusted baffle.  Debating whether to cut up/gut muffler or buy a cheap replacement.  Would like a little more sound too, thanks in advance.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/US-FREE-SHIPPING-SS-Axle-Back_1601420281831.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.18cd13a07rpLWc&amp;priceId=5372adbfda584624a894cdd0be71b4c4]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all, any recent installs or opinions on these chinese mufflers?  They were all over ebay for a while, my stock muffler has an annoying rattle probably from a rusted baffle.  Debating whether to cut up/gut muffler or buy a cheap replacement.  Would like a little more sound too, thanks in advance.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/US-FREE-SHIPPING-SS-Axle-Back_1601420281831.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.18cd13a07rpLWc&amp;priceId=5372adbfda584624a894cdd0be71b4c4" target="_blank">https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...94cdd0be71b4c4</a>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust">Exhaust</category>
			<dc:creator>TimK</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/exhaust/10160867-any-feedback-on-new-ss-cat-backs-from-china</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>E30 M10 Crank Pulley Removal/Install</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m10/10160684-e30-m10-crank-pulley-removal-install</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2026 14:58:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[OK so let's start this off by getting some common questions out of the way because there's not a lot of info for M10's in the E30 community and I'm getting sick of doing research and trying to remove this crank pulley off my engine for machining. 

The M10 found in 84-85 318i's are not like the M10's found in 2002's, Attempting to remove the crank pulley off the engine can be done with the starter method but if your engine is taken out of the car or you took out your distributor/wiring for a standalone ecu conversion then this method can't work. The Impact method is a solid method but you do need to be careful since the engine still can turn if the flywheel isn't held down by the clutch or a screwdriver. However the impact method can work for removal if you also jam a screwdriver into the flywheel teeth before you go ham on the 30mm Bolt. Installation still requires the usage of a torque wrench set to 120 to 150 pounds respectively, Finally you can lock the flywheel itself with a small tool but this will require removing the bowl reinforcement cover (Part Number: 11141277030) and then the inspection cover to lock down the flywheel with the tool. I originally thought about removing the transmission but that's only if you're also changing the flywheel/replacing the clutch. 
 

So what's all of this for?  Essentially I'm going to add information here with pictures once I get the pulley off for machining, If you got pictures and information on how you did it, Drop it here. (M20 folks, please add your own information here as well so it helps out others when they do the crank pulley on the M10 and M20)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[OK so let's start this off by getting some common questions out of the way because there's not a lot of info for M10's in the E30 community and I'm getting sick of doing research and trying to remove this crank pulley off my engine for machining. <br />
<br />
The M10 found in 84-85 318i's are not like the M10's found in 2002's, Attempting to remove the crank pulley off the engine can be done with the starter method but if your engine is taken out of the car or you took out your distributor/wiring for a standalone ecu conversion then this method can't work. The Impact method is a solid method but you do need to be careful since the engine still can turn if the flywheel isn't held down by the clutch or a screwdriver. However the impact method can work for removal if you also jam a screwdriver into the flywheel teeth before you go ham on the 30mm Bolt. Installation still requires the usage of a torque wrench set to 120 to 150 pounds respectively, Finally you can lock the flywheel itself with a small tool but this will require removing the bowl reinforcement cover (Part Number: 11141277030) and then the inspection cover to lock down the flywheel with the tool. I originally thought about removing the transmission but that's only if you're also changing the flywheel/replacing the clutch. <br />
 <br />
<br />
So what's all of this for?  Essentially I'm going to add information here with pictures once I get the pulley off for machining, If you got pictures and information on how you did it, Drop it here. (M20 folks, please add your own information here as well so it helps out others when they do the crank pulley on the M10 and M20)  ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m10">M10</category>
			<dc:creator>BadDays</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m10/10160684-e30-m10-crank-pulley-removal-install</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m20b25 turbo</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160649-m20b25-turbo</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 May 2026 19:16:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>ive been going at this for a while , need to know if anyone is still running a whodwho megasquirt ecu , 

ive wired both the launch control and boost controller as shown in the diagram now with my msq file the drop downs in both i dont know what one to select

pe0 - i set on the boost controller and it works in the output test but looking around people say thats for launch control which will not work when i went to t/ engine off and tried to see if it enables .. ive looked through diff msq files on his google docs but i cant figure it out or how i go about adding an output if it is missing as i did not use his msq files to get the settings dialed in and running

im going to tune the car but want to have everything correct before wasting my time and money</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[ive been going at this for a while , need to know if anyone is still running a whodwho megasquirt ecu , <br />
<br />
ive wired both the launch control and boost controller as shown in the diagram now with my msq file the drop downs in both i dont know what one to select<br />
<br />
pe0 - i set on the boost controller and it works in the output test but looking around people say thats for launch control which will not work when i went to t/ engine off and tried to see if it enables .. ive looked through diff msq files on his google docs but i cant figure it out or how i go about adding an output if it is missing as i did not use his msq files to get the settings dialed in and running<br />
<br />
im going to tune the car but want to have everything correct before wasting my time and money ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Bmwb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160649-m20b25-turbo</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Stock m20b25 Turbo Mega-squirt Map help.</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc/10160641-stock-m20b25-turbo-mega-squirt-map-help</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 May 2026 17:57:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Thanks for your time in advance,

I'd like someone with someone with more experience than me (none..), to look over my tune if possible. I know there are some threads with similar topics but I'm having trouble using those to verify my maps.

This ecu was sold to me second hand, previous owner claimed that there's a startup tune for the m20 on it, this is what was on it when I first connected. I was planning on using DIY Auto Tune to work out kinks (is it actually any good?)

Okay lets get into specs:
Car: 1990 525i (yes its not an E30 don't kill me)
Engine: M20B25, sort of fresh head, ARP studs, 440cc injectors, OEM style head gasket, perhaps some blowby (leaking oil from intake)
Turbo:
Turbine Trim: 74.2
Turbine A/R: 0.63
Turbine Inducer: 64.8mm
Turbine Exducer: 55.8mm
Turbine exhaust outlet : 79mm
Turbine exhaust inlet: 44.7mm（length）/85.8mm（width）

Compressor Side:
Compressor Trim: 48.1
Compressor A/R: 0.5
Compressor Inducer: 52.7mm
Compressor Exducer: 76mm
Compressor outlet:78 mm
Compressor inlet:51.5 mm

Sorry that was a lot, don't know if its necessary but its here.

Target: For now I'm looking to go as high as possible while being reliable in the sense that it wont just blow my engine after two months, this car is a street car that I use daily for the most part. I was thinking 6-8psi.

Please let me know if there is anything obviously wrong, any general tips are welcome, post your map if it fits the specs closely enough. If you post your maps make sure to provide all the necessary information on the engine and setup.

If anything else is needed or wanted for a more informed response let me know and I'll add it up top.

Ignition Timing

VE 

AFR table
​​​]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Thanks for your time in advance,<br />
<br />
I'd like someone with someone with more experience than me (none..), to look over my tune if possible. I know there are some threads with similar topics but I'm having trouble using those to verify my maps.<br />
<br />
This ecu was sold to me second hand, previous owner claimed that there's a startup tune for the m20 on it, this is what was on it when I first connected. I was planning on using DIY Auto Tune to work out kinks (is it actually any good?)<br />
<br />
Okay lets get into specs:<br />
<b>Car</b>: 1990 525i (yes its not an E30 don't kill me)<br />
<b>Engine</b>: M20B25, sort of fresh head, ARP studs, 440cc injectors, OEM style head gasket, perhaps some blowby (leaking oil from intake)<br />
<b>Turbo</b>:<br />
Turbine Trim: 74.2<br />
Turbine A/R: 0.63<br />
Turbine Inducer: 64.8mm<br />
Turbine Exducer: 55.8mm<br />
Turbine exhaust outlet : 79mm<br />
Turbine exhaust inlet: 44.7mm（length）/85.8mm（width）<br />
<br />
Compressor Side:<br />
Compressor Trim: 48.1<br />
Compressor A/R: 0.5<br />
Compressor Inducer: 52.7mm<br />
Compressor Exducer: 76mm<br />
Compressor outlet:78 mm<br />
Compressor inlet:51.5 mm<br />
<br />
Sorry that was a lot, don't know if its necessary but its here.<br />
<br />
<b>Target</b>: For now I'm looking to go as high as possible while being reliable in the sense that it wont just blow my engine after two months, this car is a street car that I use daily for the most part. I was thinking <b>6-8psi</b>.<br />
<br />
Please let me know if there is anything obviously wrong, any general tips are welcome, post your map if it fits the specs closely enough. If you post your maps make sure to provide all the necessary information on the engine and setup.<br />
<br />
If anything else is needed or wanted for a more informed response let me know and I'll add it up top.<br />
<br />
<b>Ignition Timing</b><br />
<img itemprop="image" title="IMG_7954.jpg" data-attachmentid="10160642" width="282" height="376" data-align="none" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10160642&amp;d=1778003303" alt="Click image for larger version

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VE <br />
<img itemprop="image" title="IMG_7953.jpg" data-attachmentid="10160643" width="281" height="375" data-align="none" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10160643&amp;d=1778003324" alt="Click image for larger version

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AFR table<br />
<img itemprop="image" title="IMG_7952.jpg" data-attachmentid="10160644" width="392" height="375" data-align="none" border="0" src="filedata/fetch?id=10160644&amp;d=1778003331" alt="Click image for larger version

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ID:	10160644" data-fullsize-url="filedata/fetch?id=10160644&amp;d=1778003331" data-thumb-url="filedata/fetch?id=10160644&amp;d=1778003331&amp;type=thumb" data-title="Click on the image to see the original version" data-caption="IMG_7952.jpg" class="bbcode-attachment thumbnail js-lightbox bbcode-attachment--lightbox" />​​​]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc">Alternative Tuning / W.A.R / Megasquirt / etc</category>
			<dc:creator>RonanMurphy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc/10160641-stock-m20b25-turbo-mega-squirt-map-help</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ignition timing question</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160518-ignition-timing-question</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 03 May 2026 14:36:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[For those of you with larger cams and higher compression builds, what do you find the best average ignition timing for the idle is? I'm yet to put this car on the dyno to see MBT ignition numbers.. Just trying to dial in my idle as smooth as possible at the moment. does 15 degrees adv sound reasonable for 900 rpm? I adjusted ICV base in open loop to keep rpm on target ( without any corrections from PID or ignition corrections) for 15' adv. Once I introduce ignition correction of a couple of degrees (still PIDs disabled), it seems to idle ok and has 75 rpm range spread around 900 rpm target (fluctuating above/below 35-40 rpm).
So basically my idle timing is sitting withing 12-18 degrees. Does it sound reasonable for 2.9 M20 10:1 comp with ITBs and 284 cam?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[For those of you with larger cams and higher compression builds, what do you find the best average ignition timing for the idle is? I'm yet to put this car on the dyno to see MBT ignition numbers.. Just trying to dial in my idle as smooth as possible at the moment. does 15 degrees adv sound reasonable for 900 rpm? I adjusted ICV base in open loop to keep rpm on target ( without any corrections from PID or ignition corrections) for 15' adv. Once I introduce ignition correction of a couple of degrees (still PIDs disabled), it seems to idle ok and has 75 rpm range spread around 900 rpm target (fluctuating above/below 35-40 rpm).<br />
So basically my idle timing is sitting withing 12-18 degrees. Does it sound reasonable for 2.9 M20 10:1 comp with ITBs and 284 cam?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160518-ignition-timing-question</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1987 325es crank no start</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160172-1987-325es-crank-no-start</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 18:14:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys I bought another guys project a few weeks ago and have been trying to figure out a crank no start problem. I think it’s related to a bad ground since I can’t find a ground near the right strut tower. The car will run on starter fluid if I jump the dme relay but won’t fire injectors. If anyone’s dealt with something similar, I would appreciate any suggestions. Also if someone could tell me where I should be grounding the dme, or where the right strut tower ground is supposed to go, I would appreciate it!</description>
			<content:encoded>Hey guys I bought another guys project a few weeks ago and have been trying to figure out a crank no start problem. I think it’s related to a bad ground since I can’t find a ground near the right strut tower. The car will run on starter fluid if I jump the dme relay but won’t fire injectors. If anyone’s dealt with something similar, I would appreciate any suggestions. Also if someone could tell me where I should be grounding the dme, or where the right strut tower ground is supposed to go, I would appreciate it!</content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>Fryedchicken34</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160172-1987-325es-crank-no-start</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Is this normal for new engine mounts?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160157-is-this-normal-for-new-engine-mounts</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 07:00:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all,
So I just got my M20 back in after a mild rebuild. It took a bit of wrestling but I got the mount bolts to go into the brackets. But now looking at it, I'm a bit worried that these mounts are really angled and something is wrong.

They are new mounts so hoping you all say that this is normal and they will just settle in after a bit ...😬]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
So I just got my M20 back in after a mild rebuild. It took a bit of wrestling but I got the mount bolts to go into the brackets. But now looking at it, I'm a bit worried that these mounts are really angled and something is wrong.<br />
<br />
They are new mounts so hoping you all say that this is normal and they will just settle in after a bit ...😬]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>eight-0-eight</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10160157-is-this-normal-for-new-engine-mounts</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Standalone and M20 idle control</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10159990-standalone-and-m20-idle-control</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 Apr 2026 03:56:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Haltech Nexus S2 here. Does what I need and runs ITBs nicely. I tunned the idle in a similar fashion how stock Matronic does it, ICV never fully closed. My hot idle target is 900 rpm, ITBs set screw keeps the idle at 820 or so, Stock bosch ICV does the rest with being almost closed. Fully closed setting is 25% and I'm at 27%. Idles good considering 284 cam and ITBs. Ignition correction table and PIDs help to keep the idle on target and its ok in general all things considered, maybe 30-50 rpm or so as far as surge goes. Idle ignition sits around 10-12 adv and keepa the engine nice and not super hot.
I was given a suggestion to actually meet the target with the set screw = ICV fully closed and keep ICV for cold starts only. Any thermal expansion in ITBs and idle change should be taken care by idle error timing correction table... in theory. More stable idle?

How do you guys do it and what's your thoughts?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Haltech Nexus S2 here. Does what I need and runs ITBs nicely. I tunned the idle in a similar fashion how stock Matronic does it, ICV never fully closed. My hot idle target is 900 rpm, ITBs set screw keeps the idle at 820 or so, Stock bosch ICV does the rest with being almost closed. Fully closed setting is 25% and I'm at 27%. Idles good considering 284 cam and ITBs. Ignition correction table and PIDs help to keep the idle on target and its ok in general all things considered, maybe 30-50 rpm or so as far as surge goes. Idle ignition sits around 10-12 adv and keepa the engine nice and not super hot.<br />
I was given a suggestion to actually meet the target with the set screw = ICV fully closed and keep ICV for cold starts only. Any thermal expansion in ITBs and idle change should be taken care by idle error timing correction table... in theory. More stable idle?<br />
<br />
How do you guys do it and what's your thoughts?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>zaq123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10159990-standalone-and-m20-idle-control</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Vibration in 4th at hwy speeds - ensure proper alignment from engine to transmission?</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10159985-vibration-in-4th-at-hwy-speeds-ensure-proper-alignment-from-engine-to-transmission</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 Apr 2026 01:55:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was advised by a local driveshaft rebalancing shop that oftentimes the issue with the BMW two-part driveshafts of our type isn't actually the driveshaft, it's tired motor mounts and transmission mounts. I went with nice new transmission mounts from Rogue when I 5-speed swapped. My motor mounts are a bit saggy-looking though not cracked. Apparently a matter of a few millimeters of misalignment can cause noticeable vibration, I was told. Short of playing musical chairs with my engine mounts and shims and highway testing, is there a good way to get things as aligned as reasonable practicable? Pretty sure some misalignment and resonance is my culprit.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I was advised by a local driveshaft rebalancing shop that oftentimes the issue with the BMW two-part driveshafts of our type isn't actually the driveshaft, it's tired motor mounts and transmission mounts. I went with nice new transmission mounts from Rogue when I 5-speed swapped. My motor mounts are a bit saggy-looking though not cracked. Apparently a matter of a few millimeters of misalignment can cause noticeable vibration, I was told. Short of playing musical chairs with my engine mounts and shims and highway testing, is there a good way to get things as aligned as reasonable practicable? Pretty sure some misalignment and resonance is my culprit.]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline"><![CDATA[Transmission &amp; Driveline]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Maybe Magpie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/10159985-vibration-in-4th-at-hwy-speeds-ensure-proper-alignment-from-engine-to-transmission</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M10 Gauge Cluster Help (AEM Infinity 506)</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc/10159712-m10-gauge-cluster-help-aem-infinity-506</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 Apr 2026 19:04:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Glad to say I'm halfway through my wiring harness and now it's time for the gauge cluster itself, I'm currently running a AEM infinity 506 and looking from the user manual, We have Lowside Pins and Digital Pins but I do need some help wiring this gauge cluster properly.  One thing is important and it's the tachometer, Basically the C104 requires the black wire from the tach itself to operate 12v square wave signals and I'm wondering what pin to use this for?  Green has been covered by C1-48 as that's tapped for the cluster and the economy gauge goes nowhere. (Ditching this useless gauge)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Glad to say I'm halfway through my wiring harness and now it's time for the gauge cluster itself, I'm currently running a AEM infinity 506 and looking from the user manual, We have Lowside Pins and Digital Pins but I do need some help wiring this gauge cluster properly.  One thing is important and it's the tachometer, Basically the C104 requires the black wire from the tach itself to operate 12v square wave signals and I'm wondering what pin to use this for?  Green has been covered by C1-48 as that's tapped for the cluster and the economy gauge goes nowhere. (Ditching this useless gauge) <br />
<br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc">Alternative Tuning / W.A.R / Megasquirt / etc</category>
			<dc:creator>BadDays</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/alternative-tuning-w-a-r-megasquirt-etc/10159712-m10-gauge-cluster-help-aem-infinity-506</guid>
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			<title>Cam Timing Help Needed -- Marks Built / Goodson Performance M20 Head</title>
			<link>https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10159614-cam-timing-help-needed-marks-built-goodson-performance-m20-head</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2026 04:07:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out. I recently had some work done on my 1990 325i and my mechanic discovered my cam timing was advanced a tooth - he corrected it back to stock for fear of blowing a valve. The car now feels slower but still runs great.

Dug up the original invoice on the head/cam work from the previous owner and here's what I'm working with:

- Marks Built M20 head
- Ported and polished with intake matching
- Swirl chambers on intake side only
- Angle milled 15 degrees (noted as adding ~2 degrees of advance to cam timing)
- Built by Reed at Goodson Performance
- .470 lift intake / .486 lift exhaust
- New guides, seats, and TRW valves

Given the angle milling already adding ~2 degrees of advance to cam timing, I'm wondering if running the cam a tooth advanced was actually more correct for this setup than stock spec.

Does anyone have a similar setup? What does your timing look like? And does anyone know the overlap timing on this cam? Trying to figure out if I need to dial it back in advanced to get my power back. Also wondering about getting an adjustable cam gear.

Appreciate any help.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out. I recently had some work done on my 1990 325i and my mechanic discovered my cam timing was advanced a tooth - he corrected it back to stock for fear of blowing a valve. The car now feels slower but still runs great.<br />
<br />
Dug up the original invoice on the head/cam work from the previous owner and here's what I'm working with:<br />
<br />
- Marks Built M20 head<br />
- Ported and polished with intake matching<br />
- Swirl chambers on intake side only<br />
- Angle milled 15 degrees (noted as adding ~2 degrees of advance to cam timing)<br />
- Built by Reed at Goodson Performance<br />
- .470 lift intake / .486 lift exhaust<br />
- New guides, seats, and TRW valves<br />
<br />
Given the angle milling already adding ~2 degrees of advance to cam timing, I'm wondering if running the cam a tooth advanced was actually more correct for this setup than stock spec.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have a similar setup? What does your timing look like? And does anyone know the overlap timing on this cam? Trying to figure out if I need to dial it back in advanced to get my power back. Also wondering about getting an adjustable cam gear.<br />
<br />
Appreciate any help.<br />
<br />
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			<category domain="https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20">M20</category>
			<dc:creator>ynwaE</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10159614-cam-timing-help-needed-marks-built-goodson-performance-m20-head</guid>
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