https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ en Wed, 09 Sep 2026 22:42:13 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/images/misc/R3V.jpg https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/ https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166153-low-oil-pressure-when-hot Sun, 30 Aug 2026 13:55:26 GMT So after engine rebuild M20B20 from 87-89, new piston ring set, new bearing set for both rod and main bearings (brand Kolbenschmidt Standard sizes), the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and parts that needed changed was changed. Before starting the engine I primed the oil pump manually untill I flushed out the air. However after first startup everything good with 10w-40 oil and new Bosch oil filter. When the oil gets hot the oil pressure lamp will turn on at idle. When you rev it it turns off and pressure rises. I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max. I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition. I am not sure what to do next now? Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess? I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable? I used a manual gauge and I get lower than 0,2 bars at idle which makes sense that the sensor get triggered. And when I rev it not over 2500 rpm it will rise to around 1,5-2 bars max.
I changed the oil pump with an old pump I had on another working engine and the same with the oil pressure relief valve just to be sure, but I still have the same exact symptoms. I have inspected both pumps internally and both seems in good condition.
I am not sure what to do next now?
Change to 10w-60 oil and new oil filter would be my best guess?
I also got an advise that maybe there is not enough pressure if the two surfaces between the output oil pump and the bottom of the engine block and maybe I need to use some kind of sealant suitable?]]> M20 Ra1994gh https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10166153-low-oil-pressure-when-hot https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/forced-induction/10166043-89-325ix-awd-v2-turbo Thu, 27 Aug 2026 01:46:13 GMT Hey all, thought I’d post about my build and see if I can get some tips and tricks kinda thing or help anybody else out along the way. i have a 1989 bmw 325ix that I just recently fit a CX racing v2 turbo kit to it. current setup is: schrick 272 cam stock bottom end 42lb injectors CX racing v2 turbo kit 61mm gt35 megasquirt pnp3 gen2 im currently at the stage of everything running without bumpers fitted. Test driving and tuning on the road and making small adjustments here and there. I’m by no means good at tuning and if anyone has any pointers I’m open to listening! thought I’d post about my build and see if I can get some tips and tricks kinda thing or help anybody else out along the way.
i have a 1989 bmw 325ix that I just recently fit a CX racing v2 turbo kit to it.
current setup is:
schrick 272 cam
stock bottom end
42lb injectors
CX racing v2 turbo kit
61mm gt35
megasquirt pnp3 gen2

im currently at the stage of everything running without bumpers fitted. Test driving and tuning on the road and making small adjustments here and there. I’m by no means good at tuning and if anyone has any pointers I’m open to listening!

]]> Forced Induction Rollinge30 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/forced-induction/10166043-89-325ix-awd-v2-turbo https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m42/10165719-late-model-m42-or-some-kind-of-m42-44-hybrid-what-do-i-have Wed, 19 Aug 2026 15:24:50 GMT
It is an interesting one. It has m44 style oil pan and timing case and m44 style oil filter housing with plastic cap. It also has blank boss for the rear crank position sensor.
Timing case has extra bolt hole around the oil pickup point.

I need to check the oil pump and see if it has a bigger one like the m44s do.

Everything else looks like standard m42.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2suUSQs]
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[url=https://flic.kr/p/2sw4KHT]

]]> M42 retoropak https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m42/10165719-late-model-m42-or-some-kind-of-m42-44-hybrid-what-do-i-have https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165534-rocker-arms-continuously-breaking-on-my-spece30-motor Sun, 16 Aug 2026 17:23:38 GMT I’m running an M20B25 with factory parts. I didn’t grow up driving manual, so 99% of the manual driving I’ve done has been in this car at speed. In January, I money shifted at high revs, 3rd to 2nd instead of 3rd to 4th. I got the clutch in quickly, so there were no catastrophic or terminal parts failures at that moment. Fast forward to June after a few lapping sessions and a full race weekend. Halfway through my 2nd race weekend with it, one of the rocker arms broke mid-race with no obvious over-rev. I replaced it and carried on. The 4th race weekend, a different rocker arm broke, again without any obvious over-rev. Just yesterday, another one gave out, so I’m going to replace all of them. All 3 failures have been on the intake side, but I believe that’s just coincidence. Valves have been lashed to 0.010” each time. Oil has been changed regularly. I suspect that there are hairline fractures in most of the rocker arms from the money shift in January and that the failures are now rearing their head one at a time, but I’d like to confirm that suspicion both by running it by the group as well as doing a thorough inspection of the remaining rocker arms from the incident. My greater concern is that I’m actually causing isolated failures in each of these instances with my driving style. I don’t believe I’m shifting irresponsibly, I heel-toe and try to rev march as best as I can, and I’m not super aggressive with upshifts. I guess I could be more gentle on the clutch release? But even then, I don’t feel like the rocker arms would fail so regularly because of a clumsy upshift once in a while. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
In January, I money shifted at high revs, 3rd to 2nd instead of 3rd to 4th. I got the clutch in quickly, so there were no catastrophic or terminal parts failures at that moment.

Fast forward to June after a few lapping sessions and a full race weekend. Halfway through my 2nd race weekend with it, one of the rocker arms broke mid-race with no obvious over-rev. I replaced it and carried on. The 4th race weekend, a different rocker arm broke, again without any obvious over-rev. Just yesterday, another one gave out, so I’m going to replace all of them.

All 3 failures have been on the intake side, but I believe that’s just coincidence. Valves have been lashed to 0.010” each time. Oil has been changed regularly.

I suspect that there are hairline fractures in most of the rocker arms from the money shift in January and that the failures are now rearing their head one at a time, but I’d like to confirm that suspicion both by running it by the group as well as doing a thorough inspection of the remaining rocker arms from the incident.

My greater concern is that I’m actually causing isolated failures in each of these instances with my driving style. I don’t believe I’m shifting irresponsibly, I heel-toe and try to rev march as best as I can, and I’m not super aggressive with upshifts. I guess I could be more gentle on the clutch release? But even then, I don’t feel like the rocker arms would fail so regularly because of a clumsy upshift once in a while.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.



]]> M20 rogerscgreg https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165534-rocker-arms-continuously-breaking-on-my-spece30-motor https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-resolved-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm Sat, 15 Aug 2026 23:59:13 GMT Just installed a m20b20 (motronic 1.3) that has been rebuilt with all new piston rings and bearings, the head was rebuilt at a professional shop and pressure tested and all new gaskets for the whole engine. Everything built as it is recommended. Fired her up and everything looks and sounds good and healthy. Idles perfectly when engine is cold and with no hesitation to throttle response. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all. Things that has already been changed: CPS TPS ICV (used) AFM (used) Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related Fuel pressure regulator Injectors (used) Fuel filter New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good) All vacuum hoses Blue coolant temperature sensor (the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference) Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road. Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps. The problem appears when the engine is warm (operating temperature), the idle suddenly goes down to 500rpm and even lower and the engine will hesitate badly when giving throttle and almost dies out and the car cannot be driven at all.
Things that has already been changed:
CPS
TPS
ICV (used)
AFM (used)
Spark plugs, Coil, wires and everything related
Fuel pressure regulator
Injectors (used)
Fuel filter
New fuel tank installed with all new fuel hoses everywhere
Fuel pump replaced some time ago before engine swap but not driven many miles. (I have tested the pressure right before the rail and seems to be high and good)
All vacuum hoses
Blue coolant temperature sensor
(the 3 items replaced with used parts was from my old engine so known good ones with no difference)

Only observation is that when I pinch (block) the return fuel hose from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator when the engine is warm the idle returns to normal (750-800) and the car will accept throttle and no hesitation and I even was able to drive it no problem with good power on the road.
Any suggestions? And why only when hot? I can take a video if that helps.]]> M20 Ra1994gh https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165512-resolved-low-idle-and-hesitation-when-warm https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results Sat, 15 Aug 2026 03:06:54 GMT Low numbers in the timing table (down low) is the max it wanted to handle without knock. No knock up top and the timing represents where MBT is.


I know AMC head isn't ideal. But my freshly rebuilt 885 had a crack and I just wanted to enjoy this car already hence was like F' IT and bolted AMC head to it. Have new 885 and maybe will drop it off to be machined and bolt it over the winter.
What's your thoughts on this timing and dyno?


]]> M20 zaq123 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/10165485-m20-dyno-results