Hello R3V, the time has come to pass forward an iX that survives against the odds. I have spent uncountable hours, beers, blood, sweat, and tears (tears of joy blasting though snow while ripping by SUVs) while maintaining the mechanical health and drivability of this car. The AWD cannot be overstated, didn’t Road and Track claim it was better than quattro in a head-to-head battle back in the day?
The previous, previous owner sent me this when I told him the iX was up for sale. In case anyone had any question about the life and times of an AWD e30:
More recent shot with my buddy's '87e (RIP). More photos in post below.
I have owned this iX since October 2014. Service records and history accompany this car traced back to the first invoice off lease at 25,000 miles in April 1991 nearly continuous to its most recent valve adjustment April 2021. 30 years of records, how many e30s have that!!?
- 09/87 build date
- loaded (without heated seats)
- Sport seats, yes
- M-tech 1 steering wheel, yes
- Cardinal red leather, yes
- Alpinweiß 146 (the best version), yes
- Electric sunroof and windows, yes.
- central locking, yes.
- Pop-out rear windows, yes.
- Projector low beams, yes.
- Aluminum diving boards, hell yes.
- 5 gears and three pedals, is there any other way?
Current milage 216,820. odometer gear replacement (Garagistic) 2021. I estimate less than 200 miles lost between when I noticed a lack of gear spinning and the replacement… though technically… true milage is unknown. The gears turn now! This iX starts, runs, and drives straight and tight, it is a hell of a fun hotrod m20. AWD works jack test passed with flying colors. I took a 520 mile round trip to northern VT in mid-April. Would not hesitate to do it again. Heck, I will deliver within reason for the right price.
Syracuse, NY
$7,900
Details (all documented):
The car came to me with:
- schrick 272 cam (1996!)
- ported/polished 885 head
- valve job, 1mm oversized valves
- Turner ECU chip – a hot rod iX since the 1990s
- custom header back exhaust (single pipe with 2 magna flow mufflers)
- H&R sport springs
- z3 shifter
- 15x7.5 alum. wheels sticky summer tires new 2015, under 10,000 miles
- iX basketweaves … with brand new 195 65 R15 Vredstein severe snow and ice rated all season tires
- engine rebuilt at 130k
- on its second front diff
- AWD working
- paint and panels are original as far as I can tell (VIN stickers intact all around)
What have I done during ownership? Grab a cup of coffee:
- timing belt and water pump, accessory belts, Bosch alternator at 195K
- intake manifold gasket and the tube of death, spring, o-ring
- new axle boots and grease all 4 corners
- calipers and pads all 4 corners
- engine air filter
- front to rear brake hardline
- rear brake hardlines
- stainless brake lines
- stainless clutch slave line, new clutch slave
- Koni yellow adjustable shocks/struts all 4
- shock/strut top mounts all 4, IE poly rears, OEM iX fronts
- Front and Rear strut/shock tower braces, front is iX specific like everything else
- IE 'soft' poly rear subframe, trailing arms, and diff bushings
- radio delete (no radio when purchased, I tested wiring with a pioneer head unit, speakers work fine)
- VDO sourced volt, oil temp, and pressure gauge radio infill panel to match OEM gauges
- euro clock (12 button computer was non-op, included)
- trunk sound deadening delete (heavy, to balance out the A/C delete, of course ...)
- A/C delete (non-op when purchased, too heavy... plus who needs AC in the winter?)
- heat works great
- new driver side seat belt receiver, safety first kiddos
- PS reservoir to pump lines
- PS cooler loop delete (included)
- O2 sensor
- coolant temp sensors on the block
- full driveline fluid replacement with synthetic gear oil, ATF in transfer case
- yearly rust mitigation
- mudflaps (removable, not OEM) because iX
- OEM fog blank plates
- Hella round driving lights wired into OEM harness plugs, slightly larger fuse installed. I did not cut the harness, 15 minutes to revert to OEM fogs if desired
In the last 2,000 miles or less:
- 195 65 R15 Vredstein severe snow and ice rated all season tires, less than 100 miles
- 17lb ford yellow injectors
- fuel pressure regulator o-ring
- fresh Bosch plugs
- Bremi (German) cap and rotor
- plug wires – usa made
- replace leaking steering rack with donor
- new tie rods
- replace blower motor with donor, new resister
- replace hood cable and handle with donor
- front e36 m3 lemförder offset control arm bushings
- front inner and outer control arm ball joints. Lemförder
- garagistic iX DSSR, cup, bushings
- new Z3 shifter
- Nissens radiator - good quality, great price
- coolant drain and fill
- coolant level sensor
- thermostat housing and bleed screw
- redline MTL in trans.
- reverse switch
- top-up front diff (some seeped out during the steering rack refresh)
- fuel filter and rubber hoses at tank
- full front to rear fuel hardlines
- valve adjustment and valve cover gasket
- rotors all 4 corners
- e-brake shoes and adjuster hardware
- oil and filter change
- probably missed something, you get the idea
reality check:
- Northeast car its whole life - rust never sleeps... the floor, rockers, and frame rails are solid
- been doing my part to keep the rest from spreading, the previous owners have done the same
- Front fenders are the worst, most of it is still behind those lovely iX flares
- OEM fog lights toast from road rash (you can have ‘em if you want ‘em)
- driver side left seat back bolster repaired quarter sized tear, not bad... not great. can't see it when you sit down and strap in!
- absolutely grimy underneath from 216k miles of oil, tar, and grease, keeps the rust away pretty good?
- paint and body show 216k of use all around
- trans. fluid weep from what is likely the rear main seal
- 2nd gear synchros are temperamental when cold, deliberate shifts required from 1 to 2. (drag racing on the boulevard is not really an option)
- oil level sensor is non-op, light on check panel stays on
- ABS module pulled (included) the sensors need replacement for sure
spares:
- 3.91 front diff
- front axles
- front strut housings
- front control arm cores
- front drive shaft
- front fenders (one OE, one aftermarket…), need paint and a little work. My plan would be to cut, weld, patch the original fenders to retain VIN tags, because why not?
- original steering rack in need of new seals
- spare iX basketweave rattle can black with an old tire
- spare fuel door
- stock ECU chip
- stock iX springs
- some other stuff I need to dig up for sure
God’s off-road chariot— Thanks for looking, reply here or pm with inquiries
The previous, previous owner sent me this when I told him the iX was up for sale. In case anyone had any question about the life and times of an AWD e30:
More recent shot with my buddy's '87e (RIP). More photos in post below.
I have owned this iX since October 2014. Service records and history accompany this car traced back to the first invoice off lease at 25,000 miles in April 1991 nearly continuous to its most recent valve adjustment April 2021. 30 years of records, how many e30s have that!!?
- 09/87 build date
- loaded (without heated seats)
- Sport seats, yes
- M-tech 1 steering wheel, yes
- Cardinal red leather, yes
- Alpinweiß 146 (the best version), yes
- Electric sunroof and windows, yes.
- central locking, yes.
- Pop-out rear windows, yes.
- Projector low beams, yes.
- Aluminum diving boards, hell yes.
- 5 gears and three pedals, is there any other way?
Current milage 216,820. odometer gear replacement (Garagistic) 2021. I estimate less than 200 miles lost between when I noticed a lack of gear spinning and the replacement… though technically… true milage is unknown. The gears turn now! This iX starts, runs, and drives straight and tight, it is a hell of a fun hotrod m20. AWD works jack test passed with flying colors. I took a 520 mile round trip to northern VT in mid-April. Would not hesitate to do it again. Heck, I will deliver within reason for the right price.
Syracuse, NY
$7,900
Details (all documented):
The car came to me with:
- schrick 272 cam (1996!)
- ported/polished 885 head
- valve job, 1mm oversized valves
- Turner ECU chip – a hot rod iX since the 1990s
- custom header back exhaust (single pipe with 2 magna flow mufflers)
- H&R sport springs
- z3 shifter
- 15x7.5 alum. wheels sticky summer tires new 2015, under 10,000 miles
- iX basketweaves … with brand new 195 65 R15 Vredstein severe snow and ice rated all season tires
- engine rebuilt at 130k
- on its second front diff
- AWD working
- paint and panels are original as far as I can tell (VIN stickers intact all around)
What have I done during ownership? Grab a cup of coffee:
- timing belt and water pump, accessory belts, Bosch alternator at 195K
- intake manifold gasket and the tube of death, spring, o-ring
- new axle boots and grease all 4 corners
- calipers and pads all 4 corners
- engine air filter
- front to rear brake hardline
- rear brake hardlines
- stainless brake lines
- stainless clutch slave line, new clutch slave
- Koni yellow adjustable shocks/struts all 4
- shock/strut top mounts all 4, IE poly rears, OEM iX fronts
- Front and Rear strut/shock tower braces, front is iX specific like everything else
- IE 'soft' poly rear subframe, trailing arms, and diff bushings
- radio delete (no radio when purchased, I tested wiring with a pioneer head unit, speakers work fine)
- VDO sourced volt, oil temp, and pressure gauge radio infill panel to match OEM gauges
- euro clock (12 button computer was non-op, included)
- trunk sound deadening delete (heavy, to balance out the A/C delete, of course ...)
- A/C delete (non-op when purchased, too heavy... plus who needs AC in the winter?)
- heat works great
- new driver side seat belt receiver, safety first kiddos
- PS reservoir to pump lines
- PS cooler loop delete (included)
- O2 sensor
- coolant temp sensors on the block
- full driveline fluid replacement with synthetic gear oil, ATF in transfer case
- yearly rust mitigation
- mudflaps (removable, not OEM) because iX
- OEM fog blank plates
- Hella round driving lights wired into OEM harness plugs, slightly larger fuse installed. I did not cut the harness, 15 minutes to revert to OEM fogs if desired
In the last 2,000 miles or less:
- 195 65 R15 Vredstein severe snow and ice rated all season tires, less than 100 miles
- 17lb ford yellow injectors
- fuel pressure regulator o-ring
- fresh Bosch plugs
- Bremi (German) cap and rotor
- plug wires – usa made
- replace leaking steering rack with donor
- new tie rods
- replace blower motor with donor, new resister
- replace hood cable and handle with donor
- front e36 m3 lemförder offset control arm bushings
- front inner and outer control arm ball joints. Lemförder
- garagistic iX DSSR, cup, bushings
- new Z3 shifter
- Nissens radiator - good quality, great price
- coolant drain and fill
- coolant level sensor
- thermostat housing and bleed screw
- redline MTL in trans.
- reverse switch
- top-up front diff (some seeped out during the steering rack refresh)
- fuel filter and rubber hoses at tank
- full front to rear fuel hardlines
- valve adjustment and valve cover gasket
- rotors all 4 corners
- e-brake shoes and adjuster hardware
- oil and filter change
- probably missed something, you get the idea
reality check:
- Northeast car its whole life - rust never sleeps... the floor, rockers, and frame rails are solid
- been doing my part to keep the rest from spreading, the previous owners have done the same
- Front fenders are the worst, most of it is still behind those lovely iX flares
- OEM fog lights toast from road rash (you can have ‘em if you want ‘em)
- driver side left seat back bolster repaired quarter sized tear, not bad... not great. can't see it when you sit down and strap in!
- absolutely grimy underneath from 216k miles of oil, tar, and grease, keeps the rust away pretty good?
- paint and body show 216k of use all around
- trans. fluid weep from what is likely the rear main seal
- 2nd gear synchros are temperamental when cold, deliberate shifts required from 1 to 2. (drag racing on the boulevard is not really an option)
- oil level sensor is non-op, light on check panel stays on
- ABS module pulled (included) the sensors need replacement for sure
spares:
- 3.91 front diff
- front axles
- front strut housings
- front control arm cores
- front drive shaft
- front fenders (one OE, one aftermarket…), need paint and a little work. My plan would be to cut, weld, patch the original fenders to retain VIN tags, because why not?
- original steering rack in need of new seals
- spare iX basketweave rattle can black with an old tire
- spare fuel door
- stock ECU chip
- stock iX springs
- some other stuff I need to dig up for sure
God’s off-road chariot— Thanks for looking, reply here or pm with inquiries
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