FS: CONDOR 12mm SUBFRAME RISER BUSHINGS!

[BlackbirdM3]

I'm thinking long and hard about pulling the trigger for a full set of bushings for the rear end. They sound like a good way to go. Any thoughts on having to reinforce the trailing arm mounts since these trailing arm bushings don't flex? I'm pretty much sold on the diff mount and subframe bushings, but still a little hesitant on the trailing arm bushings simply because I don't want to overload the stock mounting points.

Will

[silence]

I'm thinking long and hard about pulling the trigger for a full set of bushings for the rear end. They sound like a good way to go. Any thoughts on having to reinforce the trailing arm mounts since these trailing arm bushings don't flex? I'm pretty much sold on the diff mount and subframe bushings, but still a little hesitant on the trailing arm bushings simply because I don't want to overload the stock mounting points.

Will

Hi will, these Trailing arm bushings wont overload the trailing arms... they are a pivot point, so there is no need for reinforcement. All they do is remove the compliance found in the OEM Rubber busings.

I have a new product combo on my site that includes everythign but the kitchen sink:

http://www.condorspeedshop.com/colle...erential-mount

[BlackbirdM3]

Hi will, these Trailing arm bushings wont overload the trailing arms... they are a pivot point, so there is no need for reinforcement. All they do is remove the compliance found in the OEM Rubber busings.

I have a new product combo on my site that includes everythign but the kitchen sink:

http://www.condorspeedshop.com/colle...erential-mount

I'm more worried about a side load like thorugh a corner. I realize that its a pivot point, but even so, it will be subjected to side loads if sticky tires are used. If you take all the give out of the rear end, yes it will work more acuratly, however the loads will be magnified on the weakest links. Don't get me wrong, I like the idea, but with poly mounts, you spread the loads over a wider area due to eveything having a little bit of give.

I just learned my lesson with running real race parts in the suspension with springs that weren't up to the task. Two broken spring hats and a chewed up set of expensive camber/caster plates. That becomes an expensive lesson to learn pretty quickly.

Will

[silence]

I'm more worried about a side load like thorugh a corner. I realize that its a pivot point, but even so, it will be subjected to side loads if sticky tires are used. If you take all the give out of the rear end, yes it will work more acuratly, however the loads will be magnified on the weakest links. Don't get me wrong, I like the idea, but with poly mounts, you spread the loads over a wider area due to eveything having a little bit of give.

I just learned my lesson with running real race parts in the suspension with springs that weren't up to the task. Two broken spring hats and a chewed up set of expensive camber/caster plates. That becomes an expensive lesson to learn pretty quickly.

Will

Hey will, i responded to your PM, and i'll reiterate it here, All of my parts get tested on the street & the track. My track car puts down 356 hp to the rear wheels, and runs on 10.5" slicks on all 4 corners... I use all om my own parts on the car, it's the most hardcore test platform out there. If I cant break it, you cant break it... ;)

[vpilarrt]

The riser bushings are for cars that have too much negative camber due to excessive lowering. They raise the position of the rear subframe by 12mm, reducing camber an estimated 2 degrees.

Am building a track car so wouldn't I want some camber on the rear (like the front) or does that not help with overall grip?

[silence]

Am building a track car so wouldn't I want some camber on the rear (like the front) or does that not help with overall grip?

Correct, if you are building an E30 for the track, you want to have camber in the rear.

• Condor 12mm Subframe riser bushing Kit - Reduces camber (better for a street car).
• Condor Regular subframe bushing Kit - does not change camber (better for a track car).

[ethirtydavid]

good stuff..
wishing I'd known you made these before I ordered from Lencas -
I'll be sure to stop by here whenever I need replacements

cool prices too -

[BlackbirdM3]

Yes, you do want some camber on the back end. If you lower the car, you end up with lots of camber and toe. My M3 had a little over 4 degrees camber in the back. It was so much camber that I wasn't using the outsides of the tires at all. The insides were being eaten alive. In my case, when I upgraded to H&R Race springs, the back end didn't squat as much, so I lost a little bit of camber. Enough to be visually obvious. Now, to lift the subframe a bit, the camber will likely come down to somewhere around -2 degrees or so Im guessing. This will put more tire on the ground, and reduce the amount of toe as well. This should allow for better power application, braking, and grip since you will be using the whole tire rather than just 90%. Tire temps should be more even as well. You might also find an improvement in rear roll center and roll couple. This will pay off in other ways as well, one of which could be less body roll.


Will

[FLG]

Mine is raised 12mm and car is lowered and I have - 2.5 degrees in the rear

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[silence]

Will & FLG, thanks for the info.

[silence]

Mine is raised 12mm and car is lowered and I have - 2.5 degrees in the rear

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WHat was your camber before you installed the risers?

[BlackbirdM3]

Mine is raised 12mm and car is lowered and I have - 2.5 degrees in the rear

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

What springs are you running? The first set I had are exactly the same height as the H&R Race springs unloaded, but the car stands taller with the race springs since it doesn't sag as much (higher spring rate.) -2.5 degrees I'm guessing is just about what you want. (Its a heck of a lot better than -4 degrees.)

Will

[silence]

I've created a few product combos using the Riser bushings for those of you that were asking...

[LowR3V'in]

FLG: what springs do you have?

I just did a 9mm raiser but idk if it's because of the poly or what but
it feels like the car is really planted back there. It's allot harder to spin out it seems.

[silence]

FLG: what springs do you have?

I just did a 9mm raiser but idk if it's because of the poly or what but
it feels like the car is really planted back there. It's allot harder to spin out it seems.

It's the fact that you have no deflection in the subframe, and less rear camber... You are now using the full contact patch of the rear tires... = More grip.