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*New* Condor Speed Shop Subframe Riser Bushing Review

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    ^ help it with the jack or try tightening while it has load.

    Comment


      Anyone get an answer on camber correction with the 12mm drop with H7R sport or race springs?

      Comment


        I guarantee it will definitely help, those lower 1.25 to 1.75 inches and it helps guys that are on coil overs to improve 2-3 degrees.
        FEEDBACK:
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316212

        BMWCCA #398608
        IG @yagayo38

        "The Best E30's were built with two camshafts four cylinders and sixteen valves!".

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          Finished my install of these rear subframe bushings out back, as well as rtabs, and fcabs up front. The car feels like it is "one" piece, no more wheel hop in the rain, no noticeable difference in NVH, and no more hellaflush camber out back with H&R race springs. Awesome products guys!!

          Comment


            Also in just to say, Condor is the only way.

            12mm rear subframe.
            Rear trailing arms.
            P/S Delete
            FCAB
            Diff mount

            I have these installed and it's the true turning point for an e30.
            20% Accurate

            Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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              just got mine in! ready to go ahead and do it
              e30Ls1 Swap IG: 1dirty30

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                If you are going to run the adjustment tabs on the trailing arms, would it be better to use the regular subframe bushings and not the riser ones to allow better access to the trailing arm bolts for adjustment?

                Comment


                  Originally posted by cwlo View Post
                  If you are going to run the adjustment tabs on the trailing arms, would it be better to use the regular subframe bushings and not the riser ones to allow better access to the trailing arm bolts for adjustment?
                  Yes. If you install the risers with adjusters, you run the risk of hitting the chassis with the adjuster tabs.


                  Comment


                    Originally posted by ngampleh View Post
                    ^^ +1 my current camber is -2.5* with H&R sport + Billie touring sa
                    Reviving old question for anyone new asking - I'm running H&R sport w/ kyb gasadjust struts, 12mm bushings and eccentric tabs @ 0 to -0.5* rear camber. Once I go coils I should be a nice -1.5 or 2 Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      any long term feedback on these?
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment


                        They don't disintegrate like poly, that's for sure. We put them in the endurance race car about 7yr ago (not the riser, but have done that on many street cars), still perform like new. We just picked up another e30 race car that has a poly diff mount - car sat since 2016 without being raced and the diff mount turned to dust lol. Last year we had a top diff bolt come loose, the mount hole got wallowed out so trash, but didn't fail.
                        john@m20guru.com
                        Links:
                        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                          This is a job i don't want to have to redo often so i'm all good if there is minimal NVH and they dont fail prematurely.

                          so it raises the sub frame (and the trailing arms) w.r.t body right? just thinking about possible unintended clashes. when i jack mine up the rear suspension droop causes the lower part of trailing arm to slightly sit on the exhaust this seems like it would provide additional clearance.
                          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                          Comment


                            Yes. I am actually friends with the owner of the Condor and saw a post a long time ago from Lee at Massive about the DTM weld in risers, and asked Condor to make me a set of these press in only bushes for my street car that was totaled shortly after the prototype of this particular part.

                            The diff stays put, only the frame and trailing arm mounts raise in relation to chassis. You use aluminum bushes to space the diff down, and keep the drive-line geometry. I would highly recommend the uhmw that Condor uses for the suspension.

                            Uhmw is a little soft for my liking on the engine/trans mounts, but only because we tend to keep all the hardware a little above torque spec in the race cars, and the mount arms can dig in to the plastic when there's not full contact between parts, black Delrin is my preference for something like that, but really nothing a thick fender washer doesn't fix, to spread the load across the fill contact surface.

                            NVH is pretty slight with this kit, just use the same grease as you do on poly for the trailing arms, helps keep the squeak down, but I have found that the diff bush and trans mounts are the ones that case the most NVH. So, often we will use stock or poly trans/diff mounts that stop the translation of NVH to the chassis, but also keeps the drive train solid.



                            john@m20guru.com
                            Links:
                            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                              They don't disintegrate like poly, that's for sure. We put them in the endurance race car about 7yr ago (not the riser, but have done that on many street cars), still perform like new. We just picked up another e30 race car that has a poly diff mount - car sat since 2016 without being raced and the diff mount turned to dust lol. Last year we had a top diff bolt come loose, the mount hole got wallowed out so trash, but didn't fail.
                              IE bushings I've seen do this a lot!
                              Zach@Zakspeed.us

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