Another group buy time, Adjustable sway bar links

[Mike@PureMS]

It's true that a different length sway bar link can have an effect on the overall stiffness, but it's minimal and virtually negligible. The difference in angle is maybe 5*, of which you're taking only the right angle component of the difference. This force component is virtually none since you're again only taking the right angle measurement value of it. Draw yourself a force diagram and you'll see that the resultant force from the angle difference is minimal. Ideally you want the sway link to be perfectly perpendicular to the sway bar, so you get maximum responsiveness. WIth each small movement of the strut, it's transmitted directly to the rotation of the sway bar, not trying to pull or push it which just flexes the bushing.

Moving the mounting hole location results in a MUCH more drastic change as you're changing the distance of the torque lever arm. Like using a 6" lug wrench instead of a 7" or 8" long lug wrench. The longer the arm, the easier it is to loosen a lug bolt.

Again, adjustable links are a great item to have for corner balancing, but they aren't going to make your 20mm sway feel like a 22mm bar.

[rs4pro3]

Yes changing the mounting point on the bar changes the leverage acting on the bar. Changing the hole the link mounts to on the bar alters the angle between the sway bar and the sway link. If you change this angle you can effectively stiffen or soften the sway bar. Basically when ever the suspension compresses on one side, it will push the sway bar link upwards, this in returns pushes the sway bar, and the other end of the sway bar tries to pull upwards on the non compressed side. If the angle between the sway link and sway bar is 90 degree, then all the forces are being directly applied to the sway bar. If you change this angle by either altering the length of the link, or the mounting location of the link, now instead of all the forces being directly on the sway bar they are now acting in multiple directions trying to move the sway bar in more then one direction. Since there is less force being transmited to the sway bar, it's effectly less effective. This ignors the mounting angle between the control arm and the sway bar link as that changes threw out the suspension travel.
Here is a picture of an extreme example of my 88 325is ussing m3 sway links and being lowered. The suspension is loaded in this picture.

When ever the suspension compresses it will pull the sway bar both upwards and backwards. You can see the bushing started to develop some cracks at the top from this pulling in multiple directions.

In this picture new adjustable links have been installed, as you can see the angle is closer to 90 between the sway bar and the link, which makes the sway bar a lot more effective.
Both these pictures are from an extreme example and is harder to see under different suspension setups.

[JGood]

I mean no disrespect with this, and hope somebody can prove me wrong...

Using "adjustment" holes on aftermarket bars changes the leverage point, making it harder to flex the bar.

Using adjustable endlinks keeps the same leverage point, but swivels the entire bar either up or down. I don't see how this, or the resulting angle of the endlink, would effect overall leverage to gain "stiffness".

That said, if I can be proven wrong, mark me down for a set because I can't afford swaybars right now!

[rs4pro3]

yes, they have 1-2 inches of length adjustment to work with stock or lowered cars. The e30m3/ix front links, however are different for different lowering heights.

[Axxe]

Will they work at stock height?

[T.Dot E30]

Thanks for the insight.

I'll go with the solid ones, ill be paypal'ing you the money this evening when i get home from work.

Thank you.

[rs4pro3]

The stock front link is steel on steel stock, but the rear does have a rubber sleeve around where the rear bar. So you'd may notice some more noise in the rear. My car is basically track prepped so I wouldn't be one to ask about the noise. I just had a customer wanting to keep there car daily driver friendly and had heard that solid spherical joints will sometimes start clicking over time. So he asked if I had other type ball joints that may eliminate this so I found these.
The spherical rod ends themselves are replaceable(and available from many different retailers), life span depends on the road conditions in your area, use etc.. Mine have been on the car for over a year with no problems, but there is no snow around here.

[T.Dot E30]

Thanks for the reponse.

Do they wear out faster, are they replacable, or would that require a new set?
I understand the nylon would reduce vibrations and dampen noise.....but is there much need for them on a swaybar end-link? Have you been able to notive a difference going from the stock to solid in terms of noise and vibrations?

[rs4pro3]

$110 shipped
The Nylon ones have a nylon bearing race, versus metal on metal. They can cut down on noise and vibrations. As with having a solid metal on metal joint will transmit more noise. This is directly from the manufacuter "The nylon race resists vibration, exhibits low hydroscopic properties and helps dampen structural vibration and noise"

[T.Dot E30]

I'll take a set for a stock sway bar non-m lowered e30

How much shipped to canada?

What are these nylon ones you speak of?

Are the solid ones really that noisey to warrant getting the nylon ones?
I didn't think the solid ones would have much effect on noise.

[rs4pro3]

God damn it, I really shouldn't be spending money, but I've wanted some of these since the last time you put them up for sale. Going to bite the bullet.

I need a set for my 85 325e with the following:
Lowered with IE stage III springs
Front cabby swaybar with weld on m3 endlink tabs on the strut housing
Rear M3 swaybar

Do you make ones for the rear with the bigger m3 bar to slide on?

If we get both front and rear, can you throw in the nylon doohickeys for free as a combo price for a cool benjamin?

Yes the rear stock ones work on any stock e30 bar, they all use the same size end section where the link goes.
Sorry i forget to post the combo price which is $90 shipped unfortently it will still be $5 extra per end for the nylon links. So $100 shipped for the nylon ones, they are a good bit extra from my supplier so that's the reason for the price.

[gstuning]

yep yours are stitting in a box with those m30 parts ready to go out whenever.

Awesome
Thanks

[browntown]

God damn it, I really shouldn't be spending money, but I've wanted some of these since the last time you put them up for sale. Going to bite the bullet.

I need a set for my 85 325e with the following:
Lowered with IE stage III springs
Front cabby swaybar with weld on m3 endlink tabs on the strut housing
Rear M3 swaybar

Do you make ones for the rear with the bigger m3 bar to slide on?

If we get both front and rear, can you throw in the nylon doohickeys for free as a combo price for a cool benjamin?

[rs4pro3]

changing the length alters the angle which has the same effect as moving a link from one hole to another.
But yes you can eliminate any preload easily with these

[Mike@PureMS]

Adjustable endlinks don't stiffen or soften a sway bar. Only the location of the hole on the bar can change the stiffness.

Adjustable endlinks are great for corner balancing the car as you can remove any preload on the suspension which may be put in from the corner balance. Changing the length of the endlink has no bearing on the effective rate of the sway bar.