N52 Swap Discussion

[hoveringuy]

is there anything else I should specifically save from the complete donor chassis?

If you can use the stock ECU then you'll want the EKP module and the OBD plug, as well as a radiator fan PWM module if it has one.

Pan sounds like by far the toughest solution. I have a steel pan, plan to have that pickup tube spacer milled at work to push it back one main cap and cut a portion of the steel pan out in conjunction with modiftying the subframe and moving the rack/sway bar forward.

Those who have done this with the aluminum rear sump pans, about how many inches did you have to take out in conjunction with the subframe modding?
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When I did the modified subframe and pan on my M54 I lost the front 2 inches of the pan.

[2.5-12]

If you can use the stock ECU then you'll want the EKP module and the OBD plug, as well as a radiator fan PWM module if it has one.



When I did the modified subframe and pan on my M54 I lost the front 2 inches of the pan.

Ah, unfortunately the car was lit on fire in the rear right corner, so the EKP is gone. I suppose I'll have to buy one.

Interesting. I've never seen an M54 swap with the rear sump pan before. if it's not a huge ask, would love to see your solution.

Thanks!

[nando]

This thread has been a fun read!

I will be undertaking at some point after the S52T comes out of my RHD touring, a full transplant of an N52B30K / 6 speed from my roommates untimely arsoned 2011 328i. I have a CAN emulator and harness on its way to retain the CAS and make the engine (hopefully) run, but is there anything else I should specifically save from the complete donor chassis?

Pan sounds like by far the toughest solution. I have a steel pan, plan to have that pickup tube spacer milled at work to push it back one main cap and cut a portion of the steel pan out in conjunction with modiftying the subframe and moving the rack/sway bar forward.

Those who have done this with the aluminum rear sump pans, about how many inches did you have to take out in conjunction with the subframe modding?

Are Z4 mount arms the way to go, or is it worth paying that one company that makes 'N54 E30' fabricated arms?

TIA. I think this will be a GREAT power and livability pairing for an E30.

Are you planning to transfer the entire E90 harness? You're going to need the key slot and start button and probably more than just the DME/CAS to make it work that way. Or just ditch all that and run the DME standalone with EWS turned off..

[2.5-12]

Are you planning to transfer the entire E90 harness? You're going to need the key slot and start button and probably more than just the DME/CAS to make it work that way. Or just ditch all that and run the DME standalone with EWS turned off..

no, just the CAS/holder and DME with the EKP looks like. I did cut every module with a foot plus of wire out of the chassis before getting rid of it though.

This is what I picked up to integrate it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143901394744

I've done tons of S54 and M54 swaps, but wasn't ready to take the time to build my own MSV80 harness and the price seemed really reasonable given the new connectors. we'll see.

biggest (well, only) worry is the pan. Hoping with a combination of modifying the subframe and moving the pickup tube back one main, It'll fit. Still not sure if Z4 arms are the play, or if I should just cardboard cad some mounts. I have a FARO laser scanner and a CNC mill at work, but the folks that run the mill are super busy so trying to not lean on them unless I absolutely need it.

[nando]

Huh, neat! I get the appeal since it helps with wiring, but it seems a little complicated because you don't really need any of those modules (except the EKP). The DME will work fine without them. You don't really need a CAN bus emulator either - I'm assuming you're going to get it tuned so CAN errors can just be deleted. I think it's funny they don't think you can turn off EWS too. :)

[2.5-12]

Huh, neat! I get the appeal since it helps with wiring, but it seems a little complicated because you don't really need any of those modules (except the EKP). The DME will work fine without them. You don't really need a CAN bus emulator either - I'm assuming you're going to get it tuned so CAN errors can just be deleted. I think it's funny they don't think you can turn off EWS too. :)

frankly, until I read this thread, I was under the impression that the msv80 had not been cracked for EWS delete yet. had I known, I would have strongly considered going that route, since it makes the swaps so much cleaner.

Other than possible 3 stage if it fits, I don't plan to tune it. even the E90 was a rocket ship with this engine, so guessing the 2800-lb wagon will be fun on a bun!

[nando]

you can do the bimmerlabs 3-stage flash, it's free. It won't have error codes etc. deleted but it should work otherwise - same 255hp as the 330i.

yeah, EWS on MSV80 has been broken for a while. It's actually far simpler than doing it on MSV70. But I still recommend MSV70, especially if you're tuning, as it's a little easier to work with and just as capable.

also, FYI - you don't need a CAN board to use the E46 (or similar generation) cluster either. You can just set the DME to use CAN11h and it will work natively. They even have the maps to run the variable redline on the E46 M3 cluster!

[2.5-12]

all incredibly useful info.. so if I snag a v70 from a junk yard 325 or early 328, plugs in to the engine harness and chassis side plugs like the 2011's 80? a deleted, 3 stage'd computer does have some appeal.

doesnt look like the stock N52 intake manifolds fit terribly well, so may be stuck with an N54 manifold and lower power. car has an iX booster in it now with the turbo S52.

[hoveringuy]

I've been absent for a while enjoying the boredom of a reliable car. One small caveat to that, I had a slow leak coming from the oil filter housing gasket that was getting slightly worse with time. I had obviously replaced it a few months prior, but maybe I munged it up somehow, because a small section of the gasket looked badly eroded and I have no idea what could have caused that, except for maybe it wasn't original BMW quality. The new one is top quality so I'll see if I have the same issue in a few months. Not presently leaking.

I've also been completely over-driving my brakes. The front rotors were just getting murdered, so I upgraded to the Massive Race kit in the front (I'll do the rear later...) and it hauls the car down with authority, although I haven't translated that into faster lap times yet.

Finally, for everyone's amusement, my latest track day behind a 2018 Cayman S. I can just barely keep up, although he was pulling away on the straights, probably due to my superior un-aerodynamics. The yellow GT4 was just fast.

https://youtu.be/uLLltSZImWc


This is how it should look.

[NC325iC]

This thread is inspirational. Sticky worthy if only as an example of pure ingenuity.

Now crack the code on the N52 DCT swap so I can put one in my mom's Z3.

[2.5-12]

This thread is inspirational. Sticky worthy if only as an example of pure ingenuity.

Now crack the code on the N52 DCT swap so I can put one in my mom's Z3.

BMW DCT standalone controller have existed for some time. lots of high horsepower E36s running around with 135i DCTs.

also yuck 2 pedals.

[nando]

all incredibly useful info.. so if I snag a v70 from a junk yard 325 or early 328, plugs in to the engine harness and chassis side plugs like the 2011's 80? a deleted, 3 stage'd computer does have some appeal.

doesnt look like the stock N52 intake manifolds fit terribly well, so may be stuck with an N54 manifold and lower power. car has an iX booster in it now with the turbo S52.

The only thing that needs changed in the wiring as far as I know is the throttle body plug. But if your engine is already MSV80 you have the MSV80 throttle which should work. You can also use the N54 throttle. the MAF for MSV70 is different but I think it plugs in the same as the MSV80 version, it's just analog instead of digital.

also, the N54 manifold will make more power, not less, than the 3-stage. But it will make less low end torque. It depends on what is important to you.

[2.5-12]

The only thing that needs changed in the wiring as far as I know is the throttle body plug. But if your engine is already MSV80 you have the MSV80 throttle which should work. You can also use the N54 throttle. the MAF for MSV70 is different but I think it plugs in the same as the MSV80 version, it's just analog instead of digital.

also, the N54 manifold will make more power, not less, than the 3-stage. But it will make less low end torque. It depends on what is important to you.

is idle tuning a concern with N54 manifold, and or is a tune required to gain that extra oomph up top since it doesn't have DISA valves? I read in an older R3V post that folks were having poor idle characteristics with N54 manifolds on untuned DMEs. N54 THB bigger than N52?

[nando]

On Steve's car, nothing at all was changed as far as idle, cold starts, hot starts, etc. It starts and idles like a stock N52. If there were problems after swapping, it was probably due to vacuum leaks from improper assembly or cracked vent lines.

You will want a tune of course. At the very least, a redline bump.

the N54 throttle is a couple MM larger. They're also inexpensive.

[hoveringuy]

is idle tuning a concern with N54 manifold, and or is a tune required to gain that extra oomph up top since it doesn't have DISA valves? I read in an older R3V post that folks were having poor idle characteristics with N54 manifolds on untuned DMEs. N54 THB bigger than N52?

Like Nando said, the car is incredibly boring in it's smoothness and livability. Starts instantly, hot or cold, idles rock-steady.