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I think the wiring is easy. The only trouble I had was the extra flaky old style c101 connector (prevented my car from starting for an entire week after I did the swap), and the diagnostic connector that I hooked up wrong (not sure how I did that. Going back through the ETM, it is clearly the immobilizer that I hooked up, not sure why I thought it was diag connector). I would never even consider paying for a pre-made harness adapter. If you can change oil, you can do a harness adapter, unless you don't know how to read. -
actually ---- It's easier than you think ,,,,,, I am awaiting new pins right now.
I could send you my .xls (92 M50 N/V going into an 87 325ic)Leave a comment:
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No .... I have an '87 Cabrio with a round C101 - sold the m20 with harness so I had to source another engine side piece - Got that, a manual trans brace, late model valance, plastic bumper, and 86 Supra window switch (son's car) for $48..............
Good point though - I will research in the e36 ETM.Leave a comment:
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Square c101 from 84-85? I grounded x20 pin 7 when it was connected to c101 17 and the car started, and it starts without anything connected, so I think giving 12v to pin 7 of x20 kills fuel/spark. I can't really recommend using that though, maybe it's supposed to just get a low voltage signal of some sort, you could fry something if so. You'd have to check the diagrams on an e34/e36 body side.Leave a comment:
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Hmmm ..... I just aquired an engine side c101 and have been going through my wires - my pin 17 is empty ..... but on my m50 harness, I see pin 7 is labled as starter immoblization ......
So - the key is to leave that one unconnected - Right? or can it be used as a manual switched engine kill? Grounded to kill? I will need to look that up.Leave a comment:
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Found the issue.
Had pin 17 of the c101 (From SI to diagnostic connector, used for reset) going to pin 7 of x20, which, oddly enough, appears to be for "drive away protection". So it appears I was providing power to the damn drive away protection system on the ECU. Since my c101 connector was such a piece of shit, that wire wasn't even making contact for the past 6 months, until I started really messing with the connector.
All I did was disconnect that wire and it started right up. I actually accidentally stumbled upon the issue again. I tried to check continuity between that pin and ground while cranking, and while doing so, the engine started.
Obviously the service indicator doesn't work and can't be reset, but I'll figure that out later.Leave a comment:
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How did you resolve your issue last time? From what you are saying this is a repeat episode?Leave a comment:
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Another update:
Pulled a spark plug, it's dry. Injectors must not be opening. I also couldn't get it to spark, but I'm trying to do it by myself so who knows...Leave a comment:
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Anybody?
12v across pin 7 (ignition) in start/run key position. Ground across pin 7 when key is in off position.
Main and fuel pump relays switch to 12v in run/start.
Fuel pump gets 12v with key in start position, while cranking.
Cranks but won't start. This has to be a problem with harness adapter, as that's the only thing I messed with. But I get continuity across all pins and its wired the same as it's been for the past 6 months, and it's run flawlessly before now.Leave a comment:
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Alright, here's some bullshit:
Connected a multimeter to it to test for 12v at c101 pin 10 (ignition) while starting. The car somehow started with the meter hooked up to that pin and ground (the c101 was connected, I guess my multimeter acted as a jumper?). Repeated same results a few times. So I cut out the c101 and hard wired the x20 into the car. Now the fucking thing won't start again, just cranks and cranks. Tried doing the same voltage test to see if it would start like it did with the c101, nothing.
I'm getting 12v across the ignition wire with the key in run or start. Also have 12v at the main relay, and 12v at the fuel pump relay with the key on. I'm even getting 12v at the fuel pump wire (pin 7 of the c101), which goes right to the fuel pump. So I'm getting fuel.
What the fuck.
The real messed up thing is, this is EXACTLY what stopped me from starting my car the first time I tried with the swap. Except it wouldn't even crank. It just sat there. I connected the multimeter like I did tonight, and it fired. I cleaned the c101, and it's been pretty good ever since, minus the occasional wiggle required. But now it's cranking, and there's no c101 at all!Leave a comment:
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I am not sure, mine in N/V (402 ecu) and still on the engine stand .... No drive off protection stuff I am aware of.
Have you searched on bimmerboard? there is a lot of e36/46 info there.
--- I hear what you are saying and I would think the same but you do need to start at the basics - fuel, spark - to give you an idea what to look at further. I imagine you verified all fuses okay too? One thing you can try is use some starting fluid ..... if it fires, it's now a fuel issue......
BTW - the main and pump relays are getting power directly from engine side of harness.Leave a comment:
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No, I haven't yet, ran out of time last night. I will check tonight. I am 99.9% sure it is something that I messed with, and not a failed part elsewhere. The motor ran way too perfect prior to this. I won't rule it out completely, but I'm looking for something to do with the adapter.
If you unplug it with the key on will it lock the ECU or is there some safety mechanism like that, with the code function? I'm just trying to think what could have happened when I unplugged it.Leave a comment:
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Have you checked to make sure you are actually gettin spark? and fuel ...... soemtimes it's the simple things like could be a coincedence and your CPS just happend to fail at the same time you had the harness apart......Leave a comment:
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