SPAL fan wiring/relay kit question
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I've found the 91/99 degree e36 temp switch with an 88 degree thermostat to be a good combo for street driven vehicles. Almost all of the fans Spal manufactures draw less current than the stock e30 fans so you should be good there.Leave a comment:
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Ok, thanks - I am running a 16" low pro Spal pusher. I'd expect it would be lower amperage. I am also going to go with the 80/88 temp switch as well. I will not be running ACYes, the factory control if functioning will treat the spal fan exactly the same as it did the stock fan running it on low/high dependent on the temp switch in the radiator/AC status.
You just need to be sure the replacement fan draws less amps than the stock fan, and that the stock components are in working order.Leave a comment:
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Yes, the factory control if functioning will treat the spal fan exactly the same as it did the stock fan running it on low/high dependent on the temp switch in the radiator/AC status.
You just need to be sure the replacement fan draws less amps than the stock fan, and that the stock components are in working order.Leave a comment:
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So you simply connected the two harness side wires (where they are closest to the fan) with the two wires from the spal and leaving the stock resistor (?) in place.....this still allows for multi speed functionality?You can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4Last edited by giantkeeper; 05-02-2011, 06:40 AM.Leave a comment:
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I carefully cut off the stock fan brackets with a cut off wheel, then I used the metal and brackets that came with the spal fan and drilled holes into the baseplate of the condenser being careful to avoid where the rubber isolators contact the bottom of the condenser. (the rubbed clean spots) the top is mounted in the same fashion.

Photo by systemdelete, on Flickr

Photo by systemdelete, on FlickrLeave a comment:
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What brackets did you mount the fan in front of the a/c condenser with?Leave a comment:
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100% True. You don't even need to buy the special Spal 3-speed resistor, the stock in-line resistor will continue to operate an aftermarket fan at 2 speeds if wired correctly.You can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4Leave a comment:
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take a look in my build thread. about page 14 I have a DIy for that kit.Leave a comment:
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that's great! thanks for clearing it up
And your thread is awesome btw. Good jobLeave a comment:
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Yep, I changed out the fan to a more efficient modern design and the switch in the radiator. Kept functioning A/C and eliminated the need for a mechanical fan all together. The Spal fans moves more air while pulling less amps.Leave a comment:
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So you kept your A/C and just swapped the fan?You can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4Leave a comment:
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You can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
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sorry for highjacking, but for the guys that don't have an Andrew :p (like me)
Are there any pics of the actual harness all wired together? I've seen lots of wiring diagrams but reading them is not my forte.
I have this picture with the thermo switch wiring on the left, the fan wiring in the middle and the aux wiring on the left. So if I manage to mash all of these together in the right order the fan will work no problem?
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^ damn that's a good deal, I think I payed that much for the fan alone direct from SpalLeave a comment:

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