Same here. Mine sits slightly toward the passenger side though.
Super-notchy feel though.
S/M50 w/ getrag 260...who runs a short shift?
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Reverse is just fine, barely taps the console when you pop it over, but it was like that before, too.
I really wanted to avoid doing any modification to the carrier, cast aluminum is VERY... tricky. Bend it too far, you're screwed. You could also weaken it in that spot, cause a hairline crack that you can't see, and if you're heating it up, if you go even slightly too hot, it liquefies.Leave a comment:
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Hows getting into reverse? If I recall, mine bound up a bit and thats why I matched the twist to the carrier.Leave a comment:
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So I answered my own question, I clamped the selector rod down in a vice, heated up the center, and bent the shift lever end to a 15° angle. Just installed it in the car, and it put my shift lever in a totally straight up/down position, and it rows through all the gears just as it did before. The carrier tube at the bottom of the shift lever is now parallel to the ground, correcting the 15° degree shift caused by the transmission.Leave a comment:
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I have a question about this, will twisting the selector rod at the shift lever end compensate enough to fix this? I'm using the Z3 1.9 lever with aluminum carrier, and while the carrier isn't centered in the hole, my shift lever when installed really isn't that far off. It hits the side of the shift boot opening a little bit when going into 5th, but no worse than it was hitting the other side when going into reverse.
I ask because I just bought my aluminum carrier brand new, and I REALLY don't want to risk twisting it too far, cracking it, or creating a weak point. With the boot on, you can hardly tell where the lever sits already, so if I give the rod enough of a twist, should it keep it from at least hitting the console?Leave a comment:
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Sure thing man. I'm going to have a few days off next week. I'll email ya to discussLeave a comment:
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yo D.....
Just got back from LRP for a 2 day...I want a crisper set up.....not happy w/ 4 th to 3 rd in particular...but I think its related to the TWIST in the set up to some degree...
yes yes yes.......take a drive.... Starbucks on me......or pizza...or a few brews.Last edited by JRKOUPE; 04-15-2011, 02:48 PM.Leave a comment:
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Man I still need to come by so you could check out my lever :giggle:Leave a comment:
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I have a z4 lever with new OEM bushings. Very short and a little notchy; yet still has that oem bushing softness.Leave a comment:
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You have to be nimble, it is aluminum. I think i used a table vice and a monkey wrench. Just remember, if you bend it too much, you cant go back without breaking it. So you are better off twisting it too little, and reinstalling it a 2nd time to bend it more.Leave a comment:
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hmmm...and I thought I would only hafta bend my selector. How did you twist the carrier? I guess I cant put a breaker bar in the hole and turn a bit, right?I twisted my aluminum carrier the same amount as my selector.
In order to get it to sit centered you need to twist both as the carrier mounts horizontally to the back of the transmission, which is rotated approx 15*.
And yes, the aluminum carrier is the later style.Leave a comment:
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ok..understood.
My set up was twisted as well by the swap shop.
thnx for the info.Leave a comment:
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I twisted my aluminum carrier the same amount as my selector.
In order to get it to sit centered you need to twist both as the carrier mounts horizontally to the back of the transmission, which is rotated approx 15*.
And yes, the aluminum carrier is the later style.Leave a comment:
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Hey VW..nice to see a familiar face respond.
The alum carrier is the later carrier correct?...
so ..stock alu carrier,
...twisted oe rod...
....and UUC lever/set up
the stock alu carrier needed no modifiying?....Leave a comment:
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I ran the aluminum carrier and stock rod twisted to compensate for the tranny shift. I also used a UUC evo3 (or whatever their latest incarnation is/was) with a Whelan knob. Was centered and shifted great!Leave a comment:

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