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    FIXED. Bypassed the AC compressor enable switch behind the lever assembly
    '87 325ic, powered by S50.

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      Originally posted by herlsy View Post
      This might help some people that want to add a puller fan utilizing the stock circuit:

      I'm building fan wiring following this diagram from 0 (my car doesn't have any from the factory) and something just doesn't add up. Has anyone come up with idea that this diagram is faulty? It shows that pins 30, 85, 86, 87 of relays K1 and K6 are wired in the same fashion, when they actually are not: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...n-and-K1-Relay
      K1
      30 - hot at all times
      85 - hot when ignition on and either snowflake switch on or thermo switch jumped green/black to black
      86 - continuous to ground
      87 - continuous to fuse 3

      K6
      30 - hot at all times
      85 - continuous to ground
      86 - hot when ignition on and thermo switch jumped green/black to black/brown
      87 - continuous to fuse 18
      Last edited by raudonis; 02-09-2014, 04:45 PM.
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        the way the relays are wired is negligible to an extent if you understand how they work because all they are doing is completing a circuit. in your example it doesn't matter if 85 = ground and 86 = power or the other way around. these two terminals are responsible for actuating the rely to complete the circuit; 85 and 86 do not provide power to anything. not sure if that is what you are alluding to or not.

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          Theoretically circuit-wise it doesn't matter, but in practice it somewhat does as relay K1 pin 86 is soldered into the PCB from the factory which is hard to access for modification without completely separating the PCB from all the wiring.
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            You said you where starting from zero. Why would it matter were k1 and pin 86 go? If on the relay 86 is wired for power, wire 85 to ground. If 86 is ground make sure 85 has power that is controlled by whatever you want to control it.

            I believe you are over complicating things.

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              I had done this setup and had it running perfectly when I had an M50 in the car 12 months ago, since then I have put in an S50 and new radiator and temp switch. The problem is that now the fan is on as soon as you turn the key and is ignoring the temp switch...

              Still need to test the relays, but what parts of the setup in like in the original post would cause my fan to run constantly?
              90 318i M62B44 OBD1
              02 530i Touring (Airlift 3P)

              Comment


                If none of the fan wiring was altered during the swap - the new temperature switch can be stuck "ON". It should have infinite resistance cold - no continuity for current to pass and switch the fan relay. Might be stuck fan relay. Relay pins 30 and 87 should have no continuity.
                Last edited by raudonis; 02-19-2014, 04:39 AM.
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                  Stuck 'closed' relay or switch is where i would look

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                  Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
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                  OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                  Comment


                    Got some weird problems here..
                    I have A/C so I wired both Low/High speed together at the fan connector. (Red + Black together, or Blue/Black + Green/Black before connector)

                    Using Brown/Black high speed trigger at the fan switch as per directions.

                    Snowflake button does not turn the fan on.
                    Grn/Black is grounded when I hook the fan up..
                    fuse 3 is also grounded when snowflake button is pressed, I think this is why fan the doesn't turn on. wtf?? Is there a short in the fan??

                    EDIT: Nvm I'm an idiot. AC enable switch wasnt plugged in at the panel. Works great
                    Last edited by pandaboo911; 02-27-2014, 08:36 PM.

                    Comment


                      Has anyone used the a fan from the volvo v70, 850, or 960? Ive read they flow anywhere from 3000-3500 cfm and pull 17 amps on low speed and 35 amps.

                      JTR suggests that I use the bmw relays to trigger the volvo 2 speed relays, does anyone have input on how this would work?

                      This will not be in BMW swapped car but rather an LS swapped car if that helps.

                      Thanks
                      Worlds 1st LS powered e30 cabby.
                      Cab
                      billac: 92 LagunengrĂ¼n cabriolet + cadillac LQ9 + Nitrous + rotiform SJC

                      Raphael: 88 LagunengrĂ¼n IX + Hella 500's + Red ACS type 1's

                      Shaggin Wagon
                      : 01 325xiT 5 speed


                      91 MR2 GT3076TS + E85 = 505whp + antilag = wheelies
                      88 CRX OEM+ 42mpg DD.

                      Comment


                        Simply have the power wires that went to
                        The stock fan fire the relays built into
                        The Volvo fan, then run fused power and ground to the fan relay

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                          Thanks 328junkie for this. Got mine working correctly. Question though how do wire it so i can also manually turn on the fan(through snowflake button)? Sometimes the fan switch will let temp get in between half and 3/4ths before it turns fan on. Would like to be able to switch it on before then.
                          "We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."

                          Comment


                            K1 should be activated when you depress the snowflake (assuming you have the middle slider at least halfway open/to the right). Are you running your wiring through K1?

                            Comment


                              Not best with this wiring stuff. But All I did was follow the directions to wire it for high speed only soo.... Does it make a difference the I previously cut out the aux fan resistor an splice the two black wires together to manually control original aux fan??
                              "We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."

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                                man this is driving me nuts. i hit the snowflake button today to activate my orginal aux fan(deleted resistor to run on high long before spal conversion) for no reason, now i keep blowing fuse 18 everytime my spal goes to turn on. i tried moving some wires around to see if theres a short and swapping low and high speed relays, but no luck. anybody help its supposed to be hot this week??
                                Last edited by E30Pacman; 05-12-2014, 10:58 PM.
                                "We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."

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